zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

This is the map that I'm using and getting a bad shake in my car with. The engine seems like it might be out of balance but before I can point my finger at that, I'd like to see if someone has an E6X that they could try this map with. It is just the basic HITman map for a OEM s4. I don't need it reved high or anything like that, I'm just looking to see if there is a bad shake on the car at about 1100 rpms to 1400. If anyone could check, it would be very helpful at diagnosing the problem. The map is titled "current.e6x" at this link http://oregonstate.edu/~barraz/HaltechMaps/ thanks a bunch -Zach-

GUITARJUNKIE28

the fuel map (500-1500 rpm range) looks a little lean for stock injectorsbut can't be sure unless fuel pressure is taken into consideration.

maybe up it by .2-.3 ms in the 1000 and 1500 maps and see if that helps out.

rotarysc

we're trying to isolate a map issue vs hardware... so if somebody could verify this map it would cut our job in half... thx.

13BT510

no one can just load the map and put it in man - no 2 engines are the same so its abit hard to just swap maps and test this sort of thing.

Thats my 2 cents really !

GUITARJUNKIE28

did you try giving it more gas?

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

I've tried giving it a little more gas and it didn't really care for it, it's probably a little lean right now because I tried adjusting it up and then adjusting it down, I might have not ever set it back exactly to where it was before but the problem is isolated.

No 2 cars are the same but a blatant violent shake I get at a specific RPM range is not going to happen because it's slightly out of adjustment like that. I was putting the map up to see if someone else with a s4 turbo 2 can test it which is why I specified S4. It's also at a low enough RPM range that I want tested that someone should be able to load the map, check it real quick and see if it's shaking very bad at a specific range or not. It's a low enough rpm range with enough fuel that someone should be able to get a pretty quick idea of whether the map is functional or not. I've had several people check it to make sure it's set up about right and I've adjusted timing and other things a little bit, and as Rotarysc says, thsi is for the purpose of making sure the hardware is functional.

rotarysc

well he's loaded my E6K map and it did exact same thing... c'mon guys aren't we all buds, isn't this forum here for support? It wouldn't take any time to help us eliminate hardware vs software, I trust that ya'll know how to troubleshoot problems, cause if you do you know how ez and yet how important this can be.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

maybe your vibrations aren't ecu related but engine related.

such as counterweights

it would prolly be better if you loaded a good "know" map than to have someone load a questionable one.

GUITARJUNKIE28

i'm beginning to think it's engine related.
grab onto the front pulley while the engine's off--does it move?

watch it while it's running-- does it wobble?

what's th oil pressure like?

rotarysc

What part of he loaded my map already got missed here? Anyhoop, yes we also think its the motor but there's only a couple ways to troubleshoot that without a doubt... either eliminate the map or eliminate the motor, and I think we all know which is easier if ya know what I mean. GJ's gonna hook us up cause he's cool like that.

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

There have been several posts I put on here about checking counterweights, and just about everything else outside of the engine. I too think it's the engine but before I do anything overkill like pull it out and start removing stuff, I figured it would probably be a good idea to eliminate everything that could possibly be wrong. If this engine is the problem I can send it back. I would just like to figure out for sure it is before I ship it back and realize that the next engine I put in does the same thing.

RETed

I would offer to help, but the one E6K 13BT locally is going through a rebuild right now, and the other E6K is on a 20B.
Both useless in this case.


-Ted

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

It's all good Ted, it's for an X anyways so it wouldn't be backwards compatable. Thanks though.

GUITARJUNKIE28

who was i talking to on team fc--raspy right?
u guys try what i suggested?

Puck

iTrader: (1)

Hey Zach,

I just downloaded the file, and I will try it tomorrow night.

Greg

pengarufoo

What do the O2's look like when it's shaking? If you don't know, get a o2 sensor hooked up

In any case, I loaded up the map here:
http://pengaru.com/maps_html/barraz_current.6xm.html
(more here: http://pengaru.com/maps.shtml)

The program supports e6k maps but e6x maps work essentially the same way, so the fuel maps at least are displayed right.

It looks lean in the range you reference, in vac anyways, there is at least an irregularity visible in the fuel map around that area so I wouldnt go pulling the motor or anything. Monitor the AFR's and tweak the map.

Also, is the shaking during the transient or is it in steady-state? If it's a transient thing it could be your throttle pumps, but get the steady-state tuning done first... playing with throttle pumps prematurely can get you chasing your tail.

GUITARJUNKIE28

timing was too far advanced in that area too

Puck

iTrader: (1)

Hey Zach,

I tried the map tonight, although I didn't have much time to play with it. The good news is, it acted the same way on my car as on yours. It felt like the engine was out of balance. I beleive the problem is timing related.

Did you do all the timing checks, and lock your timing, etc? If you did, the only sugestion that I would make is under the "setup" tab, under "Ignition Setup", try changing your tooth offset from 3 to 11. Mine is set at 11, and it works well.

Are you using HalwinX, or the dos version?

Greg

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

Well, the tooth offset is setup that way since I'm doing the hitman configuration on it. How was your CAS plunged and did you set it back? I'll double check the timing when I get a chance but I've plunged the CAS a few times. I guess I'll go through and try another map.

Were you getting everything in the car to shake like mad at about 1300?

I'm using Winx to do this as I'm on a compaq and they don't make any DOS software supporting it.

Thanks a bunch for testing it. If you could take another glimpse at it if your timing was not done as the hitman way, I'd appreciate it. -Zach-

GUITARJUNKIE28

go into the timing map and turn it down to 5 or less in the low rpm/high vacuum area.

remember, the motor idles @ -5 stock, so there's no reason to turn it much past 1 or 2 unless you've got serious porting done.

Puck

iTrader: (1)

Hey Zach,

I did my CAS install as per Factory install, hence the 11 tooth offset. Anyway, I tried your map again, and it ran rough. Very slow to rev. When I changed the tooth offset to 11 and fired it up, nice and smooth, revved very easy!

If you are using HalwinX, how did you set your timing lock to -5? I found that using HalwinX, the lowest I could set the timing lock was 0 degrees.

Greg

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

So it's not the map. This after I just went out and picked up the timing light :-( Well that's one more thing eliminated. Thanks for checking, I appreciate it.

GUITARJUNKIE28

halwin locks at -5 for me...odd
i was assuming the timing was already zero'd.

Puck

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm... I am using version 1.0 full release of HalwinX. I can set the timing lock box to "on", and put -5 degrees in the timing box; if I click Apply, it stays as is, but if I click OK, the box closes (as usual), but when the ignition setup is chosen again, the timing lock box is checked, and the timing lock is set to 0. I can never get it to keep -5 degrees, close the box, reopen it, and have it still set to -5.

I can put in 0, +5, +10, whatever, and the numbers will keep. This is something that has bothered me for a while, because I could never properly 0 my timing.

Are you using a different version than I am?

Thanks,
Greg

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

I was setting this in DOS software and then using win software for normal usage. Even though I'm on a compaq (requires special drivers for it) I can set it to -5 since I know I'm hitting the right keys, zero it and then be on my way. I think you should in theory be able to put it to zero, and drop your angle from say 65 on the haltech to 60 and just add 5 after. That might be backwards though.

I pulled the belt off and ran the car for about 10 seconds to make sure that it wasn't the problem. The car seems to be running very rich and so I'm wondering if the maps I'm running (tried 2 now) are too rich or maybe I've got something else going on like a bad injector. I noticed before setting the timing and starting it up with a new map in place that it was still shaking but you could hear that the timing was off on top of it like it was something different.

Has anyone had an injector get stuck open? What kind of problem does that give? I've tried 2 sets of used 550's (I had the extra when I did new secondaries) and the car still had the same problem. There has been a few times where the car wont start and gets fairly flooded but that could just be the crude state of tune it is in. Beyond that, I swapped the coils to make sure they were good and it was exactly the same as before (was off my NA so I know it's good), I removed the main belt as I said beofre and tried a new map.

Any Ideas (preferably the one that fixes it)?
-Zach-