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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 06:30 PM
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Another wiring haltech to tach problem

Hi,

I have spent some time searching this on the forum because I know it has been asked many times and I am not the kind of person who likes to ask questions especially if they have been awnsered before. Anyway here we go...

I have recently insalled an E11 on my fd and everything went smoothly, car started right up with a map from BDC but the only thing that has me stumped is the tach. I used pwm 1 for this and spliced it in to the Yellow/Blue wire on smaller of the two yellow plugs located in passenger side kickpanel and cannot get it to work. I have tried many different combinations on the settings and pullups but cannot even get the tach to budge. I have tested to see if the #1pwm output works by using it for my fans and it worked fine.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 11:38 PM
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Good deal.

I'm not sure how to solve the tacho thing but it should be quite easy. IIRC, there's a lead on the factory harness you can pump that PWM into. Is it configured on the map correctly? I'm not sure. See if Chris Ludwig knows.

B
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 02:02 PM
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
Sure you have the correct connector? There are four connectors that went to your stock ECU. You want the 12 pin connector. Yellow/blue wire. 5V pull up should work. ~35 duty. Not sure the pulses off the top of my head, adjust this number to get the tach to reach correctly.
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 07:30 PM
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See? Told you.

B
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 11:30 PM
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Brian, I was thinking the same thing " this should be a peice of cake" ??? but here I am.
-You were right..... good call !-

Chris, thanks for chiming in. I am pretty sure I have the right wire but I will double check in the a.m.. It may be the pullup setting, I was thinking it needed to be at either 12volt or 8volt after researching this on the forum as I found a couple threads one saying to use 12volt pullup 10% duty 8 pulses and the other 8volt pullup 50% duty 4 pulses. I will try 5 volt and 35% and see if that fixs my problem.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 12:44 AM
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I replied to the pm Roky,
Hope that helps.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 11:34 AM
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^Thanks Tony, I am going to see if I can get it working today^
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 10:45 PM
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Well today I went out and double checked that I had the correct yellow/blue striped wire on the 12 pin yellow connector located at the passenger side kick panel connected to the #1 pwm output of my E11. Everything checked out, so I proceeded to start the car and change settings to 5volt 35% duty and used 4pulses and still no luck. Played around with the setting a little more still nothing. I am stumped.

On a side note the oil, coolant, gauges are not working as well as the odometer. Also the warning lights on the gauges as well as the charge light are on. These lights will start to dim and eventually go off as the rpms increases but then back on again when the rpms come down. This was the next thing on my list to get figured out but maybe there is a common problem here? Could this have anythng to do with my tach not working? Alternator seems to be working fine reads 13.3-14 volts on the haltech data page.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 04:05 AM
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Are you sure the body harness is still in tact?
The instrument cluster shouldn't be affected as long as it's grounded.
Have you checked fuses?

And a side note on your side note:
I wired my coolant sensor to the haltech so my oem coolant temp gauge is non-functional.
I have autometer gauges for the oil pressure and coolant temp because the oem ones were basically junk anyways.
So mine don't work either, BUT the odometer and speedo should be working.

The only time my speedo and odometer didn't work was before I grounded that wire.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 06:52 AM
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
Originally Posted by Gohan3rdrift
Are you sure the body harness is still in tact?
The instrument cluster shouldn't be affected as long as it's grounded.
Have you checked fuses?
Agreed. You have a common problem outside of the Haltech.

Originally Posted by Gohan3rdrift
And a side note on your side note:
I wired my coolant sensor to the haltech so my oem coolant temp gauge is non-functional.
I have autometer gauges for the oil pressure and coolant temp because the oem ones were basically junk anyways.
The cluster and the ECU use two different temp senders. You didn't have to choose one or the other. The ECU uses the sensor in the back of the water pump. The sender for the gauge is in the rear iron under the oil filter.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by SE\/EN
Well today I went out and double checked that I had the correct yellow/blue striped wire on the 12 pin yellow connector located at the passenger side kick panel connected to the #1 pwm output of my E11. Everything checked out, so I proceeded to start the car and change settings to 5volt 35% duty and used 4pulses and still no luck. Played around with the setting a little more still nothing. I am stumped.

On a side note the oil, coolant, gauges are not working as well as the odometer. Also the warning lights on the gauges as well as the charge light are on. These lights will start to dim and eventually go off as the rpms increases but then back on again when the rpms come down. This was the next thing on my list to get figured out but maybe there is a common problem here? Could this have anythng to do with my tach not working? Alternator seems to be working fine reads 13.3-14 volts on the haltech data page.
You got grounding issue. There is black wire in one of the white connectors that needs to be grounded. You probably forgot to do this.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 05:17 PM
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^hiboost, You are right I did not ground a wire in the white connector, not because I forgot but I didnt know I needed to.^ I need to figure out witch wire I need to ground. Are you referring to the white plug that is still plugged into its mate in the passenger side kickpanel (11pin) there is a black white wire I would assume this is it? Thanks for your input

I got the tach to work with 12 volt 50% duty and 4 pulses. However it does not work very well it dosent read at all when car is idleing, and it jumps around quite a bit. I am hopeing that this wire that needs to be grounded is part of this problem too.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 06:13 PM
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From: phoenix
Originally Posted by SE\/EN
^hiboost, You are right I did not ground a wire in the white connector, not because I forgot but I didnt know I needed to.^ I need to figure out witch wire I need to ground. Are you referring to the white plug that is still plugged into its mate in the passenger side kickpanel (11pin) there is a black white wire I would assume this is it? Thanks for your input

I got the tach to work with 12 volt 50% duty and 4 pulses. However it does not work very well it dosent read at all when car is idleing, and it jumps around quite a bit. I am hopeing that this wire that needs to be grounded is part of this problem too.
Yes. It's the one left bottom corner on this pic. Check if if that wire is connected to the ground, or maybe you didn't plug the connector back into its place. It's very possible that this could be cause for your tacho, I'm surprised that works at all.

Good luck
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SE\/EN

I got the tach to work with 12 volt 50% duty and 4 pulses. However it does not work very well it dosent read at all when car is idleing, and it jumps around quite a bit. I am hopeing that this wire that needs to be grounded is part of this problem too.


That's the exact same setting I'm running on my 20b and it works perfecty. Make sure you ground the black wire in the above pic.
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:50 PM
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Today I found the connector in the above pic clear up behind the glove box. When installing the haltech I pulled out the engine harness completely and used the haltech harness. While running the harness through the fire wall I must have pushed the other end of this connector up behind the glove box. -Out Of Site Out Of Mind- I guess. Well I grounded the wire and wierd enough my problems magically went away. The tach worked great at both 5 volt 35% 4 pulsed and 12volt 50% and 4 pulses.

Thanks all for the help...
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 03:39 AM
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
Good deal. This should be stickied.
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 10:25 PM
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Does this have to be DPO1?
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 06:26 AM
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
Yes. It is the only one with a built-in pull up. If you use a different DPO, you will need to wire in a pull-up to 5 or 12 volts.
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 08:12 AM
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now how about doing this in an FC?? if you used gm coilpacks.
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
Yes. It is the only one with a built-in pull up. If you use a different DPO, you will need to wire in a pull-up to 5 or 12 volts.
I just decied to rewire my stuff and use dpo1 Ty
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 02:56 PM
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
Originally Posted by SirCygnus
now how about doing this in an FC?? if you used gm coilpacks.

Connect DPO1 to the yellow/blue wire with the single female bullet connector next to the stock trailing coil. That runs to the tach.
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