Haltech Another haltech won't start
11-18-08, 06:17 PM
#27
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Most timing lights are finicky. I've tossed several cheapo and Craftsman lights. Finally fell in love with a used Ferret light off ebay for a decent price. So many times with other lights I could see the plug arcing but the light would still not trigger. Not so with the Ferret. Also, if the plugs are heavily fouled and not arcing then you probably won't get a strobe pulse on the light. Use clean plugs stuck in the wires and NOT-installed in the engine but simply grounded to the fender or intake. This way you can visually see that the ignition is firing. If it is and the light isn't producing a strobe the light has issues.
To zero the timing with a stock pulley do the following. If you have an aftermarket pulley tell us what it is and someone will give you some numbers to use.
-Stab the CAS according to the FSM.
-Lock the timing in the ignition setup page.
-Set the timing at -5 and the split at 15.
-With those setting L1 should align with the yellow mark on the pulley (-5) and T1 should align with the red mark (-20).
-Crank the engine (don't have to start it) while shooting the light to get the timing close. It usually helps expedite things to pull the plugs from the engine so that it cranks freely. Install the plugs in the plug wires and ground them to the fender or intake so that they'll still produce a spark. VERY IMPORTANT to disable the fuel pump and purge the rails so that fuel is not injected into the engine while you're cranking it like this.
-Adjust the trigger angle or twist the distributor until they align with the pointer.
-Now unlock the timing in the ignition setup page, reinstall the plugs and attempt to start the engine. Using NEW plugs is usually a big help in getting a clean slate tune going since it's likely the fuel is nowhere near correct.
-Once the engine is running get the fuel good enough so that it will idle on it's own and can be gently revved to 4k or so.
-Reconnect the timing light and again lock the timing in the ignition page.
-Shoot the timing again at idle. It's likely the mark has moved slightly from when you set it up cranking the engine. Manipulate the trigger angle or CAS to zero the timing again at idle.
-Slowly rev the engine with the timing locked while shooting it with the timing light. Make sure the timing does not drift from idle up through the rev range. If it drifts wildly you have issues in setup or wiring. If it drifts a small amount (2-3*), which is not uncommon with VR triggers, you can correct that with the advanced trigger setup in the ignition setup page.
-Attach the light pickup to L2. You should see the strobe at 180* opposite L1. Same for T2. With L2 you may actually see the same marks as L1 since they fire in wastespark. That's OK. But if T2 is not 180* out of T1 you have an issue that needs to be addressed.
-Once you know the timing is steady and accurately zeroed you can unlock it and forget it.
To zero the timing with a stock pulley do the following. If you have an aftermarket pulley tell us what it is and someone will give you some numbers to use.
-Stab the CAS according to the FSM.
-Lock the timing in the ignition setup page.
-Set the timing at -5 and the split at 15.
-With those setting L1 should align with the yellow mark on the pulley (-5) and T1 should align with the red mark (-20).
-Crank the engine (don't have to start it) while shooting the light to get the timing close. It usually helps expedite things to pull the plugs from the engine so that it cranks freely. Install the plugs in the plug wires and ground them to the fender or intake so that they'll still produce a spark. VERY IMPORTANT to disable the fuel pump and purge the rails so that fuel is not injected into the engine while you're cranking it like this.
-Adjust the trigger angle or twist the distributor until they align with the pointer.
-Now unlock the timing in the ignition setup page, reinstall the plugs and attempt to start the engine. Using NEW plugs is usually a big help in getting a clean slate tune going since it's likely the fuel is nowhere near correct.
-Once the engine is running get the fuel good enough so that it will idle on it's own and can be gently revved to 4k or so.
-Reconnect the timing light and again lock the timing in the ignition page.
-Shoot the timing again at idle. It's likely the mark has moved slightly from when you set it up cranking the engine. Manipulate the trigger angle or CAS to zero the timing again at idle.
-Slowly rev the engine with the timing locked while shooting it with the timing light. Make sure the timing does not drift from idle up through the rev range. If it drifts wildly you have issues in setup or wiring. If it drifts a small amount (2-3*), which is not uncommon with VR triggers, you can correct that with the advanced trigger setup in the ignition setup page.
-Attach the light pickup to L2. You should see the strobe at 180* opposite L1. Same for T2. With L2 you may actually see the same marks as L1 since they fire in wastespark. That's OK. But if T2 is not 180* out of T1 you have an issue that needs to be addressed.
-Once you know the timing is steady and accurately zeroed you can unlock it and forget it.
Is the timing supposed to be way off after you unlock it? I will lock it and time it pretty good then revup then it drifts off quite a bit, but when I unlock it it drifts super way off.
11-19-08, 08:16 AM
#28
When the timing is locked it's, well....locked. It's not going to move. That's how you are able to zero the timing out. When you unlock it the timing will change and run according to the timing map you have programmed. As you rev the engine and as the load changes on the engine the timing will change. That's what it's supposed to do.
11-22-08, 03:05 PM
#29
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Ok, I thought I had everything working but my leading isn't firing, its getting power but not putting out spark. It's the light green wire from the haltech loom to the pink wire on the leading right?
11-23-08, 04:36 PM
#31
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Ok I gave everything a run down today. My leading is working fine. The trailing sparks when the wires off the plugs but when connected to the plugs on the motor I can't pick anything up on the timing light and the motor stumbles. I think I have a problem in my wiring. Just to verify is this right? :
Trailing:
Coil - Haltech
2 tan - 12v+
white - blue
pink - white/black
Trailing:
Coil - Haltech
2 tan - 12v+
white - blue
pink - white/black
11-23-08, 10:26 PM
#33
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yea, i can unplug the trailing wires from the plugs while the motor is running and it will spark, but when I connect them to the plugs on the engine nothing changes. and all my plugs and wire are good.
11-27-08, 12:57 PM
#35
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ok I put my wires and plugs like I had originally had when it first started, here is a vid of whats goings on
I am running out of options and ideas, please help
I am running out of options and ideas, please help
11-27-08, 07:14 PM
#36
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is the tach connected? cause from the video normally the tach would bounce a little when cranking and to me it doesn't look like it's moving. check to see if you're getting crank signal now. just my 2 cents as i'm no genius.
11-28-08, 01:31 AM
#37
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no its not connected, I got it running good, finally. It'l rev up to about 6000, hit 6 psi and it won't die, wahoo! Now I got to get everything buttoned up and get it tuned!
Do you have a address and phone# ?
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