GUITARJUNKIE28

seems like everyone's having ignition problems with the x.
for the most part, rpm's read ok, but i'll get random spikes in the datalog....like if i were to hold the engine at 4k rpm, the datalog would look like:

4000
4000
4000
16000
4000
4000

checked wiring a dozen times
grounded red n blue crank wires (also tried ungrounded--no difference)
1k resistors inline (as per haltech's instruction)
rfi supressor
new plug wires
home and trigger gain in every imaginable combination
extra grounds
clean power
swapped crank sensor just for fun
etc. etc...

this is the second time this has happened on an x for me. everything with the install is virtually the same as the k, but i've never had this happen on one of those before. anyone got any ideas?

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

I am still stumped with my E6X ignition problem. The only thing left to try is the change the coils and those are on the way!
Have you tried keeping your Gain at 0? I found better RPM readings at 0 rather than anything higher.

GUITARJUNKIE28

yea, i tried all the gain settings with no help.
i don't really understand it... i got this problem fixed on ryan's car, but this one is more stubborn. maybe it's time to talk to haltech again....bring back the K yo!

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

I was getting rpms that bounced all over the board. I checked the CAS with the DMM and found it was fine so then I went and sprayed some connector cleaner on it and it does not go nuts like that anymore. I'd suggest trying the same. I would get anywhere from 0 to 16000 rpms while cranking when I had the problem. -Zach-

GUITARJUNKIE28

exactly.
i'll try it, but i couldn't imagine contact cleaner would help out a magnetic signal....
but it's either that, or scratch a bald spot in my head. thanks for the input.

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

I'm talking in the white clip of it, not the actual piece. Check the CAS resistance while you're in there but I can't imagine that you for some reason are far off on that all of the sudden. The contacts in there seem to be a fairly small pin system and can get cruddy pretty easy from the looks of it.

GUITARJUNKIE28

ok i got ya. i did clean everything out really really well befor econnectiong, though. the connectors look almost like new. and the stock ecu never had a problem with it. i'll check it one more time anyway.

dubulup

I check resistance on my sensors and they were both 1.15K ohms, when metal was passed in front the resistance would spike to infinity. So my sensors work. Next check continuity from sensor connector to ECU plug; pin 13 and 6. same result, so I know my sensors are capable of sending the signal. I get no rpm change when cranking, tried lots of gain changing...except 0.

Next check - I'm going to turn the motor over and check if the wheel is actually opening the switches.

any other idea's?

GUITARJUNKIE28

i honestly think this may be an issue with the e6x. i've never had a k do it.

if i ever get ahold of haltech, i'll see if they have any more ideas.
so far, they've said try reversing the polarity of the trigger n home wires, and try the 1k resistors--both done, niether worked.

GUITARJUNKIE28

but even if it is, if we can figure out a definate answer how to stop it, then someone can do a writeup and turn it into a sticky...then at leats other guys can benefit from it.

anyone use an x that works flawlessly in terms of the crank sensor input?

GUITARJUNKIE28

ok, this thing just magically fixed itself... i ******* hate that ****!!!

dubulup

I really got down and dirty with the GNDS and changed the gain to 0. Fired up!

first motor I built and single conversion and haltech install all in one, so I'm as happy as a school girl right now.

GUITARJUNKIE28

man! i installed my haltech when i rebuild my motor the first time...luckily it went problem free.
glad you got it up!! i think the final setting on my trigger gain was 2. maybe from now on i'll try using the resistors to start.

dubulup

I'm glad mine went trouble somewhat free!! did you check out what I did to my harness??

GUITARJUNKIE28

what do you mean?

dubulup

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/electron-manipulation-336924/


so, far I haven't had to take it apart... :crossesfingers: :knocksonwood: :praystogod:

GUITARJUNKIE28

oh cool.
i do a similar thing when i do the harnesses, just not to such an extent. but you cna pull the motor without taking the intake manifold off

great work!!

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

I'm still having my ignition problems with the car. I am going to check the resistance of the CAS at the ECU right now and see if this is what's causing the problem. Beyond that, dubulup, where did you add grounds? I added about a 10 guage from my engine to chasis, 1 from my lead coil to my chasis, 1 from my trail to my chasis and I assume I don't have to use more than the single ground that the haltech uses. If the CAS signal is coming up right, I guess I'll add a ground from the negative on the battery to the chasis and see if that helps any?

I am getting no signal for the firing of my lead coil and I have checked the following: CAS reistance, leading coil resistance, voltage to the coil (over 12) voltage to the trigger wire is .03V at the coil and at the ecu as well. This is making me think it has to be a bad CAS wire (running the k2rd adapter harness) so I guess that might be something to check. Everyone has told me however that if you're getting a solid RPM reading the CAS is working fine.

Should I add a few grounds by taking the grounding wires in the harness for sensors that I'm not using and stick them on something to help add a grounding or do they all need to route through the ECU?

GUITARJUNKIE28

hey the car was fine for a few days, then just decided to do this crap again.
dood, i'm gonna call nasa and get their rfi supression junk.

hey, if it's good enough for the space shuttle

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

Let me know how that goes. I did testing to make sure I've got continuity betweent he CAS and the ECU itself along with the adapter harness for the ignition and it's working correctly. The interesting thing was that if I turned the CAS by hand very slowly I got some massive fluxuations in resistance across the grounds and across the signal lines. I cleaned up the cas a little bit and checked it again and got a much more constant number. I ended up resealing my front housing yesterday so I've got to wait for RTV to dry before I go nuts on the car again. I'll keep you posted though as to how that worked.

GUITARJUNKIE28

cool. i'll keep you posted too.
whoever gets it first should get a prize

GUITARJUNKIE28

...from haltech

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

I'll be a good sport and share information, here is my suffering:

New fuel pump (previous to all of this)
New plugs
Silicon wires out of my functional nonturbo
New fuel pump wiring (my own just in case it was the k2rd adapter)
Rewired the CAS with some now shielded wiring
Tested CAS resistance, tested CAS to make sure it saw AC voltage generated by spinning
Tested compression (100psi with a piston tester on every face)
Tested for continuity through the haltech harness to CAS
Tested continuity through the harness to the adapter for the Primary coil
Grounded the block to the firewall with 10 guage
grounded the battery with 2 10 guages
grounded each set of coils with a 10 guage
Double checked the haltech grounding spot (fender of passenger side, sanded down paint in area)
Gave the shielding for the CAS it's own beefy ground
Tried the other set of 550's that came out of the car (same exact problems)

What I'm about to do:

Check continuity through the stock harness to the primary coil
Check continuity to the trailing coils
Swap the coils out of my NA to the Turbo
Kill someone/thing

Info I could use:

Can I use the grounding wires for the haltech from the stuff I don't use (Ie. spare A/D) to get a better grounding for the ecu?

The car is now starting, running for about 2-4 seconds and dieing out on me. I can hear the relay kick on (it's in the open behind my seat at the moment) to prime and when it's trying to start. The car shakes a whole hell of a lot when it's starting (engine is mounted right) and feels like it's totally lacking power when it was running right before. The maps are the standard hitman maps.

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

Update: I forgot I was messing with the fuel maps last time it was up and running and I turned them down. It starts up, it just runs like trash. The Wideband is saying it's doing an air to fuel of 11ish. The car is very smooth at 1050 rpms or so but the minute I start getting up to about 1250 the car shakes a bunch. Is this because it's using interpolation and is too high at the next rpm range up?

GUITARJUNKIE28

i think it might be. what i do for the no-load tuning is rev to the exact rpm point (1k,1500,2k,2500 etc) and get it to where it runs smoothly.
don't even look at the wideband at that point--there's plenty of time for fine tuning later.