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I agree, and we could get a stockpile of rubber plugs for the component, but my thought is that most people would just lose them within the first week anyway. There is always the option to pick up a pack of 10 on your own to have, something like this:
This is a semi-big update - finally got the first prototype (a super rough one, though) of the cluster hood! I literally just pulled it from the mold, but wanted to share anyway seeing as this is the part everybody has been looking forward to. Got the texture nailed on it - stay tuned for a finished component within the next week.
I've hoped for the last few years that someone with the know how & resources would get the interior plastics replicated with an accurate fit and finish. Something with dare I say it, durability? Have thought about opening molds with co-workers I have in China, but our market is small.
Hope you keep going on this OP as you would have a market (albeit small & shrinking).
Subscribed and look forward to more updates.
I for one would be interested in the full plastic interior.. meaning: both driver and passenger inside door plastics (including map pocket.. either flip lid or just deleted all together), the shifter surround, HVAC controls, gauge cluster and hood.
What are you estimating for price on a piece like the cluster hood you just prototyped?
This may be a bit complex, but could you make switches instead of switch blanks? Perhaps with different symbols? I bet there is a market for it. I was planning on having a few defroster switches, but I hate having the same symbol on the switches. Even a universal with just an LED that lights up.
Anyone stop to think how crazy it seems about how excited we FD owners get over seeing replacement parts for our cars?
Seriously though, great work. Glad to see this coming to fruition.
Richard
PS..My BNIB OEM 93 finish center panel is waiting to be the next model for your 3D scanner.
Thank you! But a smooth finish is easily replicated in Solidworks with the current scan.
Originally Posted by rc80
Nice update on the cluster hood!
Hope you keep going on this OP as you would have a market (albeit small & shrinking).
Subscribed and look forward to more updates.
That's the worry with investing so much time into this...
What are you estimating for price on a piece like the cluster hood you just prototyped?
We're thinking $150-200 for each piece - which is cheaper than most used, perfect condition hoods go for.
Originally Posted by Monkman33
This may be a bit complex, but could you make switches instead of switch blanks? Perhaps with different symbols? I bet there is a market for it. I was planning on having a few defroster switches, but I hate having the same symbol on the switches. Even a universal with just an LED that lights up.
The market may be too small, seeing as we sold about 30 USB/AUX ports I can't imagine the market would be much larger.
I would be willing to pay around the following for 94 texture. But this is just me.
$150 for gauge hood and bezel
$150 for both door panel plastic
$100 for both door panel plastic cups
$100 for hvac panel
$100 for center shifter console
$50 for cruise control blank
I would happily pay double that for quality new parts!
OP,
$150-200 for a cluster hood is reasonable, assuming the fit, finish and durability is there.
New plastic interior pieces with proper fit & finish (and durability)?
You would have buyers. How many? Good question.
Price is always a factor, but if the quality is there, less so. For example, Sake Bomb has been releasing very nice new products over the past few years. They command a price, but so far, everything they have shipped me has been top notch in quality.
Hard to gauge interest solely on responses on a forum.
How far do you & your company want to get into this?
I would assume many customers would want to replace ALL the pieces (so that they match).
I know I would.
Best of luck & I hope you move forward in developing these pieces
How many do I have to buy? With a clear-lighted section. With the ability of inserting symbol cutouts etc. let me know.
PM me so we can discuss it further.
Originally Posted by rc80
In regards to post #210:
OP,
$150-200 for a cluster hood is reasonable, assuming the fit, finish and durability is there.
That's the goal: much more durable urethane plastics with OEM fit and finish. Hence why it's taking so long to bring these parts to market - turns out Mazda just eyeballed everything when designing these pieces and it makes it difficult to reproduce them.
New plastic interior pieces with proper fit & finish (and durability)?
You would have buyers. How many? Good question.
Price is always a factor, but if the quality is there, less so. For example, Sake Bomb has been releasing very nice new products over the past few years. They command a price, but so far, everything they have shipped me has been top notch in quality.
Hard to gauge interest solely on responses on a forum.
How far do you & your company want to get into this?
I would assume many customers would want to replace ALL the pieces (so that they match).
I know I would.
We're not sure how far we will go, but we'll keep working parts if people want them.
Best of luck & I hope you move forward in developing these pieces
Thank you!
Cleaned up the hood, sanded it (didn't bother smoothing it out with a finer grit), and painted it quickly to get a mock-up. I wasn't sure if it would fit well, so excuse the poor finish and gap. Turns out it's a perfect fit, who would've thought? They do require some cleanup, and the urethane we use cures grey so they'll require paint. I recall reading somewhere about a paint that mimics the '94+ finish - anybody have any leads on that? I'm thinking the best way to get these as close to OEM as possible is to sand and paint them for the different interiors.
I was too quick to type ... have you thought about testing this in "real-world" conditions which would mimic the UV and heat exposure which would come from being a black plastic part, sitting on a black dashboard, behind glass windshield?
The outcome on the gauge hood looks impressive and is one of those "I'll buy two just in case the first back-up breaks" kinds of part.
Did you move forward on those "*****" on the sun visors? Those who are attacehd to the visor itsel and goes into the hook on close to the middle of the car. My car is pretty mint and untouched, and never been sitting in the sun much, and still that thing pulverized when touched.
This may be a bit complex, but could you make switches instead of switch blanks? Perhaps with different symbols? I bet there is a market for it. I was planning on having a few defroster switches, but I hate having the same symbol on the switches. Even a universal with just an LED that lights up.
Might you be able to build a switch blank, but instead of pass thrus / Aux - integrate something like this:
I was too quick to type ... have you thought about testing this in "real-world" conditions which would mimic the UV and heat exposure which would come from being a black plastic part, sitting on a black dashboard, behind glass windshield?
The outcome on the gauge hood looks impressive and is one of those "I'll buy two just in case the first back-up breaks" kinds of part.
I'll post a video of the durability of the urethane plastics - it's pretty impressive. They aren't a thermoplastic, so they won't warp and deform in extreme heat like the OEM plastic does. We're hoping these hoods will outlast a nuclear apocalypse.
Originally Posted by MattGold
SEM Satin Black Chip Guard will be damn close to 94 finish.
This is from Ericsworld's build:
SEM Landau Black is probably good for a smooth 93 style finish.
MattGold is the man. Thank you!
Originally Posted by Zepticon
Did you move forward on those "*****" on the sun visors? Those who are attacehd to the visor itsel and goes into the hook on close to the middle of the car. My car is pretty mint and untouched, and never been sitting in the sun much, and still that thing pulverized when touched.
Two-part 3Dprint and then superlue them together
I have tried a few different configurations, but the issue is the size of the part. There isn't must surface area for glue to really adhere, and the prints are so small the extruder has a difficult time printing the tolerances needed. I am hopeful for something in the future.
