The car is clean for being an 88, everything is in good shape.

Came with...

koni shocks and ground control coil overs.
greddy boost controller and turbo timer
chipped ecu
intake and ehxuast

I installed a boost gauge (old one stayed with owner, it was a peter ferell supur cars one or something spelled like that..lol)
Installed a stero system.

The good, everything on the car

The one bad - f'in center diff is jacked so I cannot turn more then 1/4 turn of the wheel. I am looking as cost to repair vs cost to putting in a (BG 90-94 323 awd) tranny in. I saw one in toronto for 250, just my luck since I will begoing to canada for my job next week anyways. Maybe I can save on shipping. Buy it, drive into NY with it then ship it to my house domestic...lol

Other then that the car is clean NO RUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was planning posting picks tomorrow of the GTX and if my endtanks came in the mock up for the monster vmount.

On the monster vmount I am making it so you do not have to cut anything, but if someone wants to they can cut the top cross section that the hood latch bolts to and raise the front of the core. I am making the end tank and piping set-up on the monster vmount so that it can be pivoted.

For the stock turbo vmount, I am leaving the piping as is. The turbo to i/c side is complicated (for piping) but anyone can make a new endtank on that side and make it go direct to the turbo.

I really do not want to deal with 4 versions, well more like 3.5 versions.

Ben

 

My 1988 Mazda 323 GTX inside and out

 

continued

 

Very nice kit, I think I in ... just remind me how much I am saving going with the GB vs. waiting till 6 mos from now when engine/turbo is rebuilt. Interested in track set-up with the hood dampers.
Thanks for all you hard work!!

KK

 

Thanks!

You can see what you will save here except I am taking an additional 50 off: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=490

stock turbo/airbox and track vmount are 1850, monster vmount is 1950. It's 150 savings in GB plus more if you go with the packages.

It's on the previous page.

I am comming back from Canada this sat and I'll try to finish up the monster vmount and the rest of the misc items.

I will open the GB probably at the end of Aug, early Sept.

Ben

 

Nice little 323.


As for the v-mount, I'm ready with the cash!

 

Thanks, I am working on the monster vmount today.

I should be done very very soon.

Ben

 

Well, after mocking up the monster vmount........

I need to redo the piping for the track and monster where it goes from the greddy eldow to the IC.

The main problem is that cars with a/c and ps will need the pipe to be routed in a way unlike what I have posted.

In my pics its a nice straight shot, however it will cause problems. If your drifting and do a clutch kick the i/c pipe will smash against the brake resevior-that is not good. Also the small ps steering tubs are around that aera too. If you do not have a ps pump then its super easy to not have this issue because you can just make the pipe route away from all that.

Anyways it will still be 2.75 piping and I will still make it so there are only silicone straights involved.

So that is what I'll be doing the rest of this week.

Next week I should be finalizing the bits n pieces.

I'm leaving for Canada in mid to late September and I will be gone 5 weeks. That is when I'll post alot of photos and open the GB thread. That way while I'm in Canada I can have the parts waiting for me at the shop and I can start building the kits.

Again I like the pretty straight shot i/c pipe from the elbow to i/c, but it will cause issues and possible damage. I can not release it like that.

Thanks, Ben

 

I had a base '87 323 for a long time, always wanted a GTX, but I've found the love of my life

 

Oh I meant to ask, how high do the hood dampers raise the hood? Like 12" or more higher than the stock rod?

 

I think 12" higher and the corners of the back of the hood will hit. It is higher, maybe by 4" to 6" inches. But more important no more hood rod in your face.

 

Canada?/where abouts?.GIDDAY EH!
heh!(hint to save shipping if I can scrounge up 2k!)

 

Im going to Ottawa, near you. Im right by the qubec border where the girllies can drink at 18....hahaha

Have you heard of the Byron Market, that place is off the hook!

I will be there for 5 weeks, maybe we can meet up EH!!!!

Sorry about your idea on saving shipping. The kits will not be built until I get back.

 

Completed track kit with clearence issues fixed. No more risk to master brake resivior or to the small pipes comming off of the p/s pump. You will have to bend a brake line junction point to an angle though, you are really just bending the braket it is bolted to. Look for it on the lower left side of the brake booster.

The monster vmount will have the same piping for the most part except it is a little different where it goes to the I/C.

I will be providing spark plug wire holders, you can decide where ever you want to put them. They are shiny chrome plated bendable brackets with clip on holders for the wires.

 

is there an option for cars with-out A/c and P/s?

 

Yes there can be an option, but the two problems are this....


Whether or not you have ps/ac, the main problem will be at the brake booster at that brake line junction point that is on the lower left side on a bracket. You will have to bend it back at an angle to make sure that when the motor moves it will not cause the I/C piping to hit it.

Once you clear that and you still want to run piping straight to the IC you will have an issue with it hitting the brake fluid reservoir. Even if it doe not touch it, you will need 2 inch clearance minimum so that when the motor move it will not push the IC piping into it.

It really comes down to looks of having a pipe that looks great going straight like I had it before- or Have it like it is now.

I have already explored many options with short ratio cast elbows, cast J-elbows, many configurations. With out p/s or a/c you will still have to combat those to issues.

You will have to make a custom elbow and weld it to the greddy tb piece because the angle needed will not work for a silicone hose. It will not be a flat surface.

Of course all the issues is with 2.75 piping, you can go with 2.5 piping and get rid or some of the issues, but my main concern is functionality and not looks.

I can make an option, but it would be better to sell the kit minus that section if you do not like it and you can make your own piping out of what ever diameter that will fit your application.

I did not want to route it like this either, but I had to, I had to because any other way will cause issues.

Also it is not that easy to have 3 different configurations of pipes for one kit. I already have 3 kits coming out and thats enough on my plate. As much as I would like to have something for every little thing, I have to limit it to what I do to what is best for the kit for the majority of people.

I also have to make it so that it is fully bolt on and that the end user will not have to cut or modify any of my parts.

I hope this clears some things up as to why I do what I do and as to why I decide not to do things, even if it affects my sales.

I would rather sell nothing then to sell someone something that has been compromised.

Ben
-Rotary Extreme

 

I tell you what,

yes, once I finish the vmount piping for the monster vmount, I will take the ps pump off and make the optional piping. for people keeping ps but ditching a/c, you will still use the new piping that clears the ps pump.

I want to make everyone happy, sorry for being stubborn.

Ben

 

Yay for manual rack!

 

Man,

I tell you guys, I have spent so much money on piping alone, probably enough to have bought one of these kits for myself... hahahahaha

 

These are pretty much what you guys are getting.

What is not shown but is comming with the kit is the sngle fan that is secured to the radiator, basic ducting, ss lines to replace stock oil lines for new oil cooler location. The kits will come with polished aluminum. The steel metal brackets will be powder coated to you choice of color.

here are the track pics in two configurations.

1. for use with ac and ps.
2. for those of you with no ps.

if you delete ac you will still use the ac/ps piping

 

Here is the monster vmount, you will have to do some very minor messaging to the hood latch support. It tucks uder because it is so big. If you want it to sit more level you will need to cut the front support.

The ic has 3 inch in and out. The solid elbow is 3 inch, after the elbow is where it transistions to the 2.75 inch. I choose these end tanks so that if people wanted to cut the frame, they could rotate the front of the ic up and still use the same piping that came with the kit.

here are the pics for use with ps and ac.

 

Here is the set-up with no ps.

If you have no ac you will still use the ac ps set-up

You can also see how close the elbow is to the pos terminal. Both the battery and the vmount is secure as F*&K and will not bump into each other. You will need to attach you pos clamp in a way so that it will not hit or arc on the elbow.

You can also go with the silicone safety elbow which is 4-ply and transitions from 3 to 2.75 oir you can move the battery to the trunk. You can also get a low profile terminal that screws into the battery instead the supplied post.

Here are the pics.

 

Very nice. I like the option for both ac and no ac. That's caring for the customers.

 

Thanks, actually its ps and no ps ;P

p.s. everyone do not mind the brackets, these are the prototypes, the ones in the kits will be way cleaner and powder coated.

Good night everyone, gotta get some rest, its been a long week.

 

lookin good!

future customer here... as i dont yet have an engine lined up or built for that matter.