Rotary Extreme FC vmount interest
#351
just for looks bro hahahahahaha..
Anyways, the carbon fiber will crack after a period of time unless you use special hardware which I will provide. You have to use washers with a rubber backing and the CF needs to be a decent thickness. The benifit is that its lighter but more important it does not retain heat like the aluminum. But then again the aluminum ducting is minimal so its not going to really get warm anyways.
The free CF I feel is just somthing cool for show.
But for track use and long term use, we gotta go with aluminum.
However, re-amemiya style top CF I/C shield in between the top of the I/C and bottom of the hood is pretty sick. That obviously needs to be made on a car by car bases since people will have different vented hood. I'm sure something like that can be made a little big and then its trimmed to fit by the end user.
Oh well.
There is actually a **** load of relocating for this kit, but all brackets, vacuum line and bolts will be provided with the kits.
It's a f'n pain in the azzizle to make all 3 work with each other.
Again sorry for the delay, it just takes time and money to make it, test fit it, redo it...yada yada yada.
I just want it as right as possible when it's released so that people are not trying to figure out what in the hell is this box of parts in front of them is.
Ben
Anyways, the carbon fiber will crack after a period of time unless you use special hardware which I will provide. You have to use washers with a rubber backing and the CF needs to be a decent thickness. The benifit is that its lighter but more important it does not retain heat like the aluminum. But then again the aluminum ducting is minimal so its not going to really get warm anyways.
The free CF I feel is just somthing cool for show.
But for track use and long term use, we gotta go with aluminum.
However, re-amemiya style top CF I/C shield in between the top of the I/C and bottom of the hood is pretty sick. That obviously needs to be made on a car by car bases since people will have different vented hood. I'm sure something like that can be made a little big and then its trimmed to fit by the end user.
Oh well.
There is actually a **** load of relocating for this kit, but all brackets, vacuum line and bolts will be provided with the kits.
It's a f'n pain in the azzizle to make all 3 work with each other.
Again sorry for the delay, it just takes time and money to make it, test fit it, redo it...yada yada yada.
I just want it as right as possible when it's released so that people are not trying to figure out what in the hell is this box of parts in front of them is.
Ben
#355
The turbo intake tube has nothing to do with my vmount kit. The only turbo related piping is from the outlet to the IC.
The stock turbo vmount kit uses 2 inch piping. That is all bolt-ons but keeping your stock turbo. That kit will come with complete piping.
The track and monster vmount comes with 2.75 piping. I will provide all piping to the intake elbow, ( you have to use greddy elbow for these two kits) and I will give you the pipe that goes towards where your upgraded turbo will usually sit. That will also be 2.75. It will be your responsibility to get the connection from your turbo to inlet IC pipe because that is where there are many different configurations.
2.75 has proven to be the best all around diameter. Too small and it is constricted, too big and flow through the tube will slow down.
All three kits are tailor made for a specific horse power range.
Ben
#356
1308ccs of awesome
iTrader: (9)
ahh, ok, for some reason I thought you were including the intake too. Hopefully my current custom 3" intake wont interfere with anything.
so for the bov, the pipping is going to connect right to the turbo and not have any bov provisions? and people will just have to get their various bov flanges welded on where ever they want? I assume the piping is going to be aluminum?
This isn't a problem, I'm just curious, this is probably the easiest way to do it without requiring a certain brand of bov to use with the kit.
so for the bov, the pipping is going to connect right to the turbo and not have any bov provisions? and people will just have to get their various bov flanges welded on where ever they want? I assume the piping is going to be aluminum?
This isn't a problem, I'm just curious, this is probably the easiest way to do it without requiring a certain brand of bov to use with the kit.
#357
Eage8,
Correct. To a certain extent.
The I/C piping on the turbo inlet side will only go towards the direction of where the turbo sits. You will need to finish the connection between that pipe and the turbo outlet. That will usually be a silicone 90 degree with both ends at 2.75 or if your turbo has a 2.5 outlet you will need a silicon reducer of 2.75 to 2.5. There are too many configuartions in that single connection for me to offer that in the kit.
It is the I/C piping on the intake side that will be provided to go to the INTAKE elbow on the motor, but you will have to use a greddy elbow for the 2 larger kits because the greddy elbow opens to a 2.75 which is the same diameter as my piping provided in my kits. The stock elbow is kind of a bottle neck and should be upgraded when seeking more power, like over 400whp.
The piping will be aluminum and you can put the BOV where ever you want, or where ever you can fit it. You can even install one that recirculates instead of venting to open atmosphere. I also sell what ever BOV you want, just tell me where you want it on the kit and I can have the hole cut and the flange welded on free of charge. That is free for the flange welding if you buy the BOV from me.
Ben
Correct. To a certain extent.
The I/C piping on the turbo inlet side will only go towards the direction of where the turbo sits. You will need to finish the connection between that pipe and the turbo outlet. That will usually be a silicone 90 degree with both ends at 2.75 or if your turbo has a 2.5 outlet you will need a silicon reducer of 2.75 to 2.5. There are too many configuartions in that single connection for me to offer that in the kit.
It is the I/C piping on the intake side that will be provided to go to the INTAKE elbow on the motor, but you will have to use a greddy elbow for the 2 larger kits because the greddy elbow opens to a 2.75 which is the same diameter as my piping provided in my kits. The stock elbow is kind of a bottle neck and should be upgraded when seeking more power, like over 400whp.
The piping will be aluminum and you can put the BOV where ever you want, or where ever you can fit it. You can even install one that recirculates instead of venting to open atmosphere. I also sell what ever BOV you want, just tell me where you want it on the kit and I can have the hole cut and the flange welded on free of charge. That is free for the flange welding if you buy the BOV from me.
Ben
#362
Still working on piping, dealing with interference issues. Just trying to see what is acceptable to rub and not to rub, that is the question.
I also will need to provide some sort of spark plug wires holder to get the wires around the piping. There is alot of relocating involved, alot of small brackets, additional silicone vacuum lines will be provided with the kit to relocate one of the valves.
It's been more costly to make these 3 kits then I initially thought. Just in piping and silicone hoses alone I've spent 800 trying different configurations to get the best possible set-up that can still be sold as a true bolt on kit over the net. There is one factory bracket that needs to be bent, but it can be done by hand so no biggy. The stock turbo vmount kit has to be made first because the other two kits need alot of stuff moved that I do not want to swap back.
So probably like in March I'll have the final photos and all three kits done.
I'm spending the extra outta pocket cash on parts, fabrication, design then redesign so that you guys will not have to. I just want the kit to be the best I can make it when it is released.
I would love to buy a vmount kit that comes with everything I will need straight out of the box.
That is what I want to offer for you guys.
Thats the reason for the delay...... and the outta pocket funding for all three kits...lol
Ben
I also will need to provide some sort of spark plug wires holder to get the wires around the piping. There is alot of relocating involved, alot of small brackets, additional silicone vacuum lines will be provided with the kit to relocate one of the valves.
It's been more costly to make these 3 kits then I initially thought. Just in piping and silicone hoses alone I've spent 800 trying different configurations to get the best possible set-up that can still be sold as a true bolt on kit over the net. There is one factory bracket that needs to be bent, but it can be done by hand so no biggy. The stock turbo vmount kit has to be made first because the other two kits need alot of stuff moved that I do not want to swap back.
So probably like in March I'll have the final photos and all three kits done.
I'm spending the extra outta pocket cash on parts, fabrication, design then redesign so that you guys will not have to. I just want the kit to be the best I can make it when it is released.
I would love to buy a vmount kit that comes with everything I will need straight out of the box.
That is what I want to offer for you guys.
Thats the reason for the delay...... and the outta pocket funding for all three kits...lol
Ben
#363
Just to say, as one of the 'next generation' cheap guys, I have an 88 GXL that I fully intent to do to the nuts once I get some money going. (Should be soon now, just graduated, looking for a job.) And I'm interested, also as one who's interesting in having a streetable high horse drift car in Vancouver BC, I'm NOT to interested in unreliable parts. I'd be willing the pony up 2000 bucks for a quality kit, especially since it'd save me 800+ dollar headaches in the future.
Just give us poor canadians a discount ok? Our gas is at 125.28 a liter right now, and thats regular 87 octane. Suicide turbo much?
Just give us poor canadians a discount ok? Our gas is at 125.28 a liter right now, and thats regular 87 octane. Suicide turbo much?
#364
Just to say, as one of the 'next generation' cheap guys, I have an 88 GXL that I fully intent to do to the nuts once I get some money going. (Should be soon now, just graduated, looking for a job.) And I'm interested, also as one who's interesting in having a streetable high horse drift car in Vancouver BC, I'm NOT to interested in unreliable parts. I'd be willing the pony up 2000 bucks for a quality kit, especially since it'd save me 800+ dollar headaches in the future.
Just give us poor canadians a discount ok? Our gas is at 125.28 a liter right now, and thats regular 87 octane. Suicide turbo much?
Just give us poor canadians a discount ok? Our gas is at 125.28 a liter right now, and thats regular 87 octane. Suicide turbo much?
I will do my best, but your best bet for the discount will be to get in on the GB.
I'm trying to finalize everything up.
I need you guys to be aware there is alot of stuff getting relocated and I will provide everything you need for all 3 kits. Everytime I think 'm almost done, one more little finishing touch pops up.
I think I mentioned before, but its stuff like a bracket with a spark plug wire holder on it to get it around the piping.
Making this kit has been a PITA but I think it's worth it.
It will come with everything you need, or that's my goal at least...lol
Ben
#366
Target 2k.
GB target price 1800 for those new to this thread.
GB target price 1700 for those with the extra 100 off for waiting forever for me to finish.
These prices are subject to change because they are target prices.
GB pricing will be based on how many people sign up and what the actual final price of the kit is.
Ben
#368
Well.......
I have another delay, I cracked my rib at my regular job about a week and a half ago. It felt like I got sucker punched in the side. The pain didnt go away and actually got worse. I went in last friday and I was told I cracked my rib. Well last week before the doctors visit, I thought I just hurt myself and that it would go away so I just kept working and thats what probably made it worse.
So if anyone wants to see it, I have a doctors note..lol...hahahaha
OK well catch you guys later.
Ben
I have another delay, I cracked my rib at my regular job about a week and a half ago. It felt like I got sucker punched in the side. The pain didnt go away and actually got worse. I went in last friday and I was told I cracked my rib. Well last week before the doctors visit, I thought I just hurt myself and that it would go away so I just kept working and thats what probably made it worse.
So if anyone wants to see it, I have a doctors note..lol...hahahaha
OK well catch you guys later.
Ben
#371
Yup, no cutting and drilling. You will have to bend maybe 2 or 3 stock brackets and 2 or 3 tabs. The wire splice is for the water sensor on top of the radiator and for the emissions sensor on the bottom of the radiator for S4's. I heard S5's do not have that.
I'm looking into what to do with the open port on the intake manifold that has the big hose that goes to the baffle under the front right headlight. This is in reffernce to the S4, I do not know if the S5 has that.
What have some of you guys done with that who know what I'm talking about. It needs to be removed to install the kit. I want to include what ever has to be done to that in the kit. So thats what I am working on now.
Ben
I'm looking into what to do with the open port on the intake manifold that has the big hose that goes to the baffle under the front right headlight. This is in reffernce to the S4, I do not know if the S5 has that.
What have some of you guys done with that who know what I'm talking about. It needs to be removed to install the kit. I want to include what ever has to be done to that in the kit. So thats what I am working on now.
Ben
#373
I actually went to the hospital today and got an extended note.
There is good news and bad news from the second round of x-rays to confirm my condition.
The good news: I do not have a fractured rib.
The bad news: The reason for the second set of x-rays was because there was questions on the first set. Second set showed that the bottom 2 ribs on my right side have torn ligiments where the muscles attached and that I have bruised those ribs as well.
I have been instructed to stay off the vicodin... I wonder why??..lol And now I have 800 mg Ibprohen which works very well.
Here is the doctors note wazway and for anyone else...lol
There is good news and bad news from the second round of x-rays to confirm my condition.
The good news: I do not have a fractured rib.
The bad news: The reason for the second set of x-rays was because there was questions on the first set. Second set showed that the bottom 2 ribs on my right side have torn ligiments where the muscles attached and that I have bruised those ribs as well.
I have been instructed to stay off the vicodin... I wonder why??..lol And now I have 800 mg Ibprohen which works very well.
Here is the doctors note wazway and for anyone else...lol
Last edited by Rotary Extreme Sales 1; 02-28-11 at 07:46 PM.
#374
T2 Duo!
iTrader: (6)
Well.......
I have another delay, I cracked my rib at my regular job about a week and a half ago. It felt like I got sucker punched in the side. The pain didnt go away and actually got worse. I went in last friday and I was told I cracked my rib. Well last week before the doctors visit, I thought I just hurt myself and that it would go away so I just kept working and thats what probably made it worse.
So if anyone wants to see it, I have a doctors note..lol...hahahaha
OK well catch you guys later.
Ben
I have another delay, I cracked my rib at my regular job about a week and a half ago. It felt like I got sucker punched in the side. The pain didnt go away and actually got worse. I went in last friday and I was told I cracked my rib. Well last week before the doctors visit, I thought I just hurt myself and that it would go away so I just kept working and thats what probably made it worse.
So if anyone wants to see it, I have a doctors note..lol...hahahaha
OK well catch you guys later.
Ben