Rotary Extreme FC vmount interest
12-17-10, 06:07 PM
#326
I can not just weld a nut on both sides. Aluminum nuts will distort when welded. I would have to weld a block of aluminum and tap it. The other issues is when you have a steal bolt screwed into the aluminum, it is two different metals and will fuse together from corossion.
What I have to do is something a little elborate to make this tie down system work for both battery boxes.
I have some ideas that will work that will be cost effective and functional.
This will ofcousre drive up the cost, once I do this I will no longer offer the old boxes with no tie-mounts.
What I have to do is something a little elborate to make this tie down system work for both battery boxes.
I have some ideas that will work that will be cost effective and functional.
This will ofcousre drive up the cost, once I do this I will no longer offer the old boxes with no tie-mounts.
Last edited by Rotary Extreme Sales 1; 12-17-10 at 06:10 PM.
12-17-10, 08:02 PM
#327
I can not just weld a nut on both sides. Aluminum nuts will distort when welded. I would have to weld a block of aluminum and tap it. The other issues is when you have a steal bolt screwed into the aluminum, it is two different metals and will fuse together from corossion.
What I have to do is something a little elborate to make this tie down system work for both battery boxes.
I have some ideas that will work that will be cost effective and functional.
This will ofcousre drive up the cost, once I do this I will no longer offer the old boxes with no tie-mounts.
What I have to do is something a little elborate to make this tie down system work for both battery boxes.
I have some ideas that will work that will be cost effective and functional.
This will ofcousre drive up the cost, once I do this I will no longer offer the old boxes with no tie-mounts.
12-18-10, 03:30 AM
#328
Well, what ever I do it has to work for both FC and FD boxes. The issue is the box needs to be secured for rules, that is enough justification to make the tie down. I do not like my parts not being used because they do not conform to track rules. I make offroad parts, what good are they if they do not pass inspection for offroad rules.
Thats just gay.
lol
So I've come to a very easy conclusion, I will make and very basic bolt on tie down that should pass inspection. It will be on all the boxes, cost should only go up 5 to 10 bucks at the most. It will include the screws ofcourse and the tie down bar will be polished like the box.
Thats just gay.
lolSo I've come to a very easy conclusion, I will make and very basic bolt on tie down that should pass inspection. It will be on all the boxes, cost should only go up 5 to 10 bucks at the most. It will include the screws ofcourse and the tie down bar will be polished like the box.
Last edited by Rotary Extreme Sales 1; 12-18-10 at 03:41 AM.
12-18-10, 05:32 PM
#329
Well its costing me 20 more to have the fabricator do the extra welding for the material, tabs and tie down bracket. Then there is the hardware, I know its not much but it all adds up.
I will use 6mm bolts with nylon locking nuts. I'm going to have to raise the price of the box 10 to 15 bucks, but atleast it will have a tie down now.
I will use 6mm bolts with nylon locking nuts. I'm going to have to raise the price of the box 10 to 15 bucks, but atleast it will have a tie down now.
12-19-10, 01:00 PM
#331
Thats a nice piece.
Let me explain what I have to deal with on my side.
1. The tie down needs to be the same style for both boxs for ease of manufacturing.
2. I can not have the tie down on the side because it will rub against the end tanks on my vmounts for the FD battery kit.
3. I can not have long L-hooks that attach on the bottom of the FD box because it will interfere with how the box sits flush on the rail. However I can make some piece that a short L-hook can attach to on the side but then I have to pay more for that piece to be notched or curved or I can simply drill a hole. But either way you look at it, even with the top bolt tight, the L-hook is still on by pressure and it is not bolted in place on the bottom. I want something more secure.
4. I can not use a strap for long term use because the box edges will eventually cut through it.
5. I can not have a thick tie down going along the top because it will have clearence issues with the pos/neg clamps once they are on the terminals.
There are a few more but I was watching "lets go to jail" and I forgot..lol
Anyways since I have an FD and I'm working on the FC I have already verified my easy fix works for both cars. Also there are 2 bolts to make sure are secured instead of messen with l-hooks and top bolts. Also the tie down is thin and offset to clear the clamps once they are on the pos/neg terminals. But as stated before the extra pieces, welding and bending of the tie down it drives it up.
I love the aem piece, but that style still has potential to slip on the style of boxes I make.
Anywho, problem has been solved so my battery kits will have no more tech inspection issues.
Thank you for everyones input, thats very important to a companies growth.
Let me explain what I have to deal with on my side.
1. The tie down needs to be the same style for both boxs for ease of manufacturing.
2. I can not have the tie down on the side because it will rub against the end tanks on my vmounts for the FD battery kit.
3. I can not have long L-hooks that attach on the bottom of the FD box because it will interfere with how the box sits flush on the rail. However I can make some piece that a short L-hook can attach to on the side but then I have to pay more for that piece to be notched or curved or I can simply drill a hole. But either way you look at it, even with the top bolt tight, the L-hook is still on by pressure and it is not bolted in place on the bottom. I want something more secure.
4. I can not use a strap for long term use because the box edges will eventually cut through it.
5. I can not have a thick tie down going along the top because it will have clearence issues with the pos/neg clamps once they are on the terminals.
There are a few more but I was watching "lets go to jail" and I forgot..lol
Anyways since I have an FD and I'm working on the FC I have already verified my easy fix works for both cars. Also there are 2 bolts to make sure are secured instead of messen with l-hooks and top bolts. Also the tie down is thin and offset to clear the clamps once they are on the pos/neg terminals. But as stated before the extra pieces, welding and bending of the tie down it drives it up.
I love the aem piece, but that style still has potential to slip on the style of boxes I make.
Anywho, problem has been solved so my battery kits will have no more tech inspection issues.
Thank you for everyones input, thats very important to a companies growth.
12-19-10, 01:06 PM
#332
LOL, anyways after buying those pieces and shipping to me, it still comes out to more then my modification. I'm trying to make the most cost effective solution.
Thanks for your input.
12-20-10, 11:15 AM
#336
I will absorb 25% of the cost (sounds better then 5 dollars..lol ) to make it but I can't offer this upgrade for free.
FD battery box kit is now 265 (from 250)
FC battery box kit is now 275 (from 260)
FC is 10 more because the base plate that the battery box sits on has alot more work involved.
12-28-10, 10:35 PM
#337
http://www.rotaryextreme.com/FCminibattery.html
FC battery box ready, I will do a GB on this next month so you guys might wanna hold out.
FC battery box ready, I will do a GB on this next month so you guys might wanna hold out.
12-29-10, 02:27 AM
#339
Thanks!
Sorry I'm late on the vmounts. After changing the core set-ups I had to basically scrap what I already had. But it will be better in the end. So after looking at everything thing and the new configuration, the a/c fan is no longer needed. The a/c fan looks like it comes on at 105 and it is there because the FC has a clutch fan from the factory. It will now be done like the FD where there will be two electric fans. The fans will always be on for the rad and I'm sure they will be on before 105 so I know that that the electric fan is no longer needed for the front of the a/c.
This clears up more room for fresh air to the a/c and radiator.
Now I know that some people are thinking that the monster vmount is at a bad angle. Please remember that the FC is a bottom feeder and that plenty of air is able to flow in between the cores. There will be a small panel that will help direct the air where it needs to go. Also a vented hood will allow the hot air to get out better.
I will post pics again once the intercoolers are all done.
Thanks, Ben
Sorry I'm late on the vmounts. After changing the core set-ups I had to basically scrap what I already had. But it will be better in the end. So after looking at everything thing and the new configuration, the a/c fan is no longer needed. The a/c fan looks like it comes on at 105 and it is there because the FC has a clutch fan from the factory. It will now be done like the FD where there will be two electric fans. The fans will always be on for the rad and I'm sure they will be on before 105 so I know that that the electric fan is no longer needed for the front of the a/c.
This clears up more room for fresh air to the a/c and radiator.
Now I know that some people are thinking that the monster vmount is at a bad angle. Please remember that the FC is a bottom feeder and that plenty of air is able to flow in between the cores. There will be a small panel that will help direct the air where it needs to go. Also a vented hood will allow the hot air to get out better.
I will post pics again once the intercoolers are all done.
Thanks, Ben
Last edited by Rotary Extreme Sales 1; 12-29-10 at 02:36 AM.
01-04-11, 10:12 PM
#343
Update, having the end tanks welded onto the cores within the next 2 weeks.
It's a little tough to build 3 vmount kits outta pocket around the holidays...lol
Sorry for the delay, I don't like lagging either and believe me I have work that I can not do until these are done so I'm trying to finish these up as fast as I can.
It's a little tough to build 3 vmount kits outta pocket around the holidays...lol
Sorry for the delay, I don't like lagging either and believe me I have work that I can not do until these are done so I'm trying to finish these up as fast as I can.
01-12-11, 07:40 PM
#344
I know it's taking a long time but let my say ahead of time what I know will be 2 famous lines.
" Man, I'm glad I waited "
" Man, I should have waited instead of........"
lol, its taking long because there is so much involved in this kit, seriously. Making everything work for 3 different vmounts is a biiiaaaaayyyytch.
" Man, I'm glad I waited "
" Man, I should have waited instead of........"
lol, its taking long because there is so much involved in this kit, seriously. Making everything work for 3 different vmounts is a biiiaaaaayyyytch.
01-18-11, 05:04 AM
#346
I have some extra CF so I am going to see if I can make some of the ducting with it. The oil cooler scoop will be aluminum because it's stronger, but for some of the visual stuff in the engine bay I will try to make it CF. I just need to find a stronger resin.
The is only for the introduction of my FC vmount kits and only during the GB.
Ben
The is only for the introduction of my FC vmount kits and only during the GB.
Ben
