Why oh why.. did the dummy buy used housings
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Why oh why.. did the dummy buy used housings
ugh so I have a 13b-rew engine and needed new housings... I buy some from a rotary company and receive housings with 3/16" cracks near the leading and strong 1/16" size cracks on the trailing... on both housings $700 gone down the drain... yay! Rotary life ftw!! 😑. Now what....
#2
Retired Moderator, RIP
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?...spend 20 thousand dollars on a lawyer to defend your case..win back your 700 and carry on???
(sorry coffee is kind of weak this morning and I am giddy as hell..heh,heh!)
Curious..post pics of those housings.
Also sometimes impatient decisions get in the way of sensibility and can wreck your plans.
This Forum has a fair amount of Good members selling good parts..so Personally and honestly,I use this Site to buy a LOT of stuff....10 years in..maybe 2 "rough purchases"..but that record is like 99.5%..!
(sorry coffee is kind of weak this morning and I am giddy as hell..heh,heh!)
Curious..post pics of those housings.
Also sometimes impatient decisions get in the way of sensibility and can wreck your plans.
This Forum has a fair amount of Good members selling good parts..so Personally and honestly,I use this Site to buy a LOT of stuff....10 years in..maybe 2 "rough purchases"..but that record is like 99.5%..!
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
Well if you buy housings from REC in Canada this is the kind of housings you'll get. They should change there company name to REKT, I will never buy anything from them again. They tell me after the fact that all the housings they have to sell have cracks in them. Haha super shady!
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
?...spend 20 thousand dollars on a lawyer to defend your case..win back your 700 and carry on???
(sorry coffee is kind of weak this morning and I am giddy as hell..heh,heh!)
Curious..post pics of those housings.
Also sometimes impatient decisions get in the way of sensibility and can wreck your plans.
This Forum has a fair amount of Good members selling good parts..so Personally and honestly,I use this Site to buy a LOT of stuff....10 years in..maybe 2 "rough purchases"..but that record is like 99.5%..!
(sorry coffee is kind of weak this morning and I am giddy as hell..heh,heh!)
Curious..post pics of those housings.
Also sometimes impatient decisions get in the way of sensibility and can wreck your plans.
This Forum has a fair amount of Good members selling good parts..so Personally and honestly,I use this Site to buy a LOT of stuff....10 years in..maybe 2 "rough purchases"..but that record is like 99.5%..!
thats a good idea! Know any lawyers? I'll give them $20 to help me win back my $700
#5
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
According to the Mazda Motorsports Tech tips you are OK to 8mm or 5/16".
But don't stop there.. you need to fix the real problem. Port the water passages in the housings.
Read this thread... https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...em-fix-989811/
Barry
But don't stop there.. you need to fix the real problem. Port the water passages in the housings.
Read this thread... https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...em-fix-989811/
Barry
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#10
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Thread Starter
If a mod can delete this rant I'll be happy
I actually got a call from REC and they explained to me that those are excellent used housings. I feel a lot better now with knowing that this is as good as you'll get for used housings. I just don't have enough experience with these engines. I only saw 2 pairs of housings in front of me so far.. the ones I got with the car that has deep scratches from the seals and these ones.
#14
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
I was going to have REC build me a 20b engine. This is little concerning. Can any non-partisan members vouch for their quality? I would hope that they would be forthcoming about any blemish on a used housing, nevermind many things that can be hidden in an assembled engine.
#15
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
"If a mod can delete this rant I'll be happy" I actually got a call from REC and they explained to me that those are excellent used housings. I feel a lot better now with knowing that this is as good as you'll get for used housings. I just don't have enough experience with these engines. I only saw 2 pairs of housings in front of me so far.. the ones I got with the car that has deep scratches from the seals and these ones.
Do you have more pics of the rotor housings and the edge of the surface? Is there any chrome flaking?
These housings may be useable and without more pics it's hard to say, but the sealing surface you've shown seems ok..... i think i can see some wear on the edge in that first pic but again we'd need more pics.
I wouldn't go so far as to say that this is as good as you can get with used housings, though the price you paid may have been fair--- new rotor housings are damn pricey.
#16
Full Member
Thread Starter
after it's all said and done I compression tested the engine and got straight 55 psi across the board on front and rears on a cold engine and steady pulses on each face. rotary sucks lol, and this company might suck even more unless you're good friends with the man. I'm either gonna sell the car or go with a piston engine... I wished I could have gotten it running, but with the way I played my cards; I'm over dealing with rotary life and the small ammout of engine parts sellers accociated with it.
#18
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
after it's all said and done I compression tested the engine and got straight 55 psi across the board on front and rears on a cold engine and steady pulses on each face. rotary sucks lol, and this company might suck even more unless you're good friends with the man. I'm either gonna sell the car or go with a piston engine... I wished I could have gotten it running, but with the way I played my cards; I'm over dealing with rotary life and the small ammout of engine parts sellers accociated with it.
Along with that, how was it tested? what tester? throttle open? 250 cranking rpm? does the car run? hot start ok? what's your vacuum at idle? etc etc etc.
Your stupid non-piston engine may be just fine.
#19
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
while the plug boss cracks are not optimum they have nothing to do w your compression readings. as has been posted, the cracks make the housings less suitable for higher hp apps but they probably will work fine if you are around stock hp levels.
what is your anticipated power target?
you will want to run 10 heat range plugs to mitigate further cracking.
having dealt w Rotary Engine for a number of years i would highly doubt that they would sell you a pair of 55 psi housings. while not to be confused with $800 new housings your $350 housings should work fine.
many other factors influence compression and my guess is something on that list is the culprit rather than the housings.
pls post any other housing pics you have...
what is your anticipated power target?
you will want to run 10 heat range plugs to mitigate further cracking.
having dealt w Rotary Engine for a number of years i would highly doubt that they would sell you a pair of 55 psi housings. while not to be confused with $800 new housings your $350 housings should work fine.
many other factors influence compression and my guess is something on that list is the culprit rather than the housings.
pls post any other housing pics you have...
Last edited by Howard Coleman; 07-02-17 at 01:35 PM.
#20
Old [Sch|F]ool
55psi is decent depending on the compression tester. The engine in my car (has 9.4 rotors) has about that much compression on my tester. In a couple weeks I'll have it tested with a genuine Mazda digital tester so I can see the difference in readings.
#22
Full Member
Thread Starter
I'm getting a noticeably low RPM crank speed. My PFC reads 13.7 volts and I'm jumping it off my truck, so low battery isn't the reason for a weak starter... I also hooked the jumpers directly to the starter to get straight to the point and I'm still getting a slow crank... Is the starter that I have just bad? I really hope my low PSI isn't because of the housings....
#23
Full Member
Thread Starter
while the plug boss cracks are not optimum they have nothing to do w your compression readings. as has been posted, the cracks make the housings less suitable for higher hp apps but they probably will work fine if you are around stock hp levels.
what is your anticipated power target?
you will want to run 10 heat range plugs to mitigate further cracking.
having dealt w Rotary Engine for a number of years i would highly doubt that they would sell you a pair of 55 psi housings. while not to be confused with $800 new housings your $350 housings should work fine.
many other factors influence compression and my guess is something on that list is the culprit rather than the housings.
pls post any other housing pics you have...
what is your anticipated power target?
you will want to run 10 heat range plugs to mitigate further cracking.
having dealt w Rotary Engine for a number of years i would highly doubt that they would sell you a pair of 55 psi housings. while not to be confused with $800 new housings your $350 housings should work fine.
many other factors influence compression and my guess is something on that list is the culprit rather than the housings.
pls post any other housing pics you have...
#24
Full Member
Thread Starter
Sorry, I know you're venting..... but blaming it on 'all rotary engines' is juvenile. Time to man up, go look in the mirror, and acknowledge you may have made some questionable decisions.
Along with that, how was it tested? what tester? throttle open? 250 cranking rpm? does the car run? hot start ok? what's your vacuum at idle? etc etc etc.
Your stupid non-piston engine may be just fine.
Along with that, how was it tested? what tester? throttle open? 250 cranking rpm? does the car run? hot start ok? what's your vacuum at idle? etc etc etc.
Your stupid non-piston engine may be just fine.
#25
Old [Sch|F]ool
If the engine is cranking slowly you will have poor compression. If you turn the engine by hand you will have zero compression in any engine.
If you remove the valve from the hose you will get EXTREMELY LOW READINGS, with the result's inaccuracy being relative to how long the hose is. On my gauge, 80psi compression with the valve in is about 25psi with the valve removed.
You do not have a compression problem, you have a problem elsewhere. If you had low compression your engine would crank very FAST because the starter had low load to work against.
If you remove the valve from the hose you will get EXTREMELY LOW READINGS, with the result's inaccuracy being relative to how long the hose is. On my gauge, 80psi compression with the valve in is about 25psi with the valve removed.
You do not have a compression problem, you have a problem elsewhere. If you had low compression your engine would crank very FAST because the starter had low load to work against.