Why oh why.. did the dummy buy used housings
 

ugh so I have a 13b-rew engine and needed new housings... I buy some from a rotary company and receive housings with 3/16" cracks near the leading and strong 1/16" size cracks on the trailing... on both housings $700 gone down the drain... yay! Rotary life ftw!! 😑. Now what....

?...spend 20 thousand dollars on a lawyer to defend your case..win back your 700 and carry on???
(sorry coffee is kind of weak this morning and I am giddy as hell..heh,heh!)

Curious..post pics of those housings.

Also sometimes impatient decisions get in the way of sensibility and can wreck your plans.
This Forum has a fair amount of Good members selling good parts..so Personally and honestly,I use this Site to buy a LOT of stuff....10 years in..maybe 2 "rough purchases"..but that record is like 99.5%..!

Well if you buy housings from REC in Canada this is the kind of housings you'll get. They should change there company name to REKT, I will never buy anything from them again. They tell me after the fact that all the housings they have to sell have cracks in them. Haha super shady!

thats a good idea! Know any lawyers? I'll give them $20 to help me win back my $700

According to the Mazda Motorsports Tech tips you are OK to 8mm or 5/16".

But don't stop there.. you need to fix the real problem. Port the water passages in the housings.

Read this thread... https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...em-fix-989811/

Barry

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8e9f1aaff9.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7cbcf19e3e.jpg

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Those aren't that bad, that normal. Long as your not expecting insane amounts of hp, and have a good tune, it'll live

If a mod can delete this rant I'll be happy
 

I actually got a call from REC and they explained to me that those are excellent used housings. I feel a lot better now with knowing that this is as good as you'll get for used housings. I just don't have enough experience with these engines. I only saw 2 pairs of housings in front of me so far.. the ones I got with the car that has deep scratches from the seals and these ones.

I wouldn't be running a lot of boost with standard spark plugs with those rotor housings, you certainly don't want those cracks getting worse.

I'm gonna be running NGK 9's all around

yup, those are standard spark plugs, generally speaking. What are your boost and power goals?

I was going to have REC build me a 20b engine. This is little concerning. Can any non-partisan members vouch for their quality? I would hope that they would be forthcoming about any blemish on a used housing, nevermind many things that can be hidden in an assembled engine.

Definitely not deleting this thread as it's good info to have available, if anything we try to keep censorship and thread deletions to a minimum here.

Do you have more pics of the rotor housings and the edge of the surface? Is there any chrome flaking?

These housings may be useable and without more pics it's hard to say, but the sealing surface you've shown seems ok..... i think i can see some wear on the edge in that first pic but again we'd need more pics.

I wouldn't go so far as to say that this is as good as you can get with used housings, though the price you paid may have been fair--- new rotor housings are damn pricey.

after it's all said and done I compression tested the engine and got straight 55 psi across the board on front and rears on a cold engine and steady pulses on each face. rotary sucks lol, and this company might suck even more unless you're good friends with the man. I'm either gonna sell the car or go with a piston engine... I wished I could have gotten it running, but with the way I played my cards; I'm over dealing with rotary life and the small ammout of engine parts sellers accociated with it.

Is this rotaryengine.com? I've never had a problem with Adam.

Sorry, I know you're venting..... but blaming it on 'all rotary engines' is juvenile. Time to man up, go look in the mirror, and acknowledge you may have made some questionable decisions.

Along with that, how was it tested? what tester? throttle open? 250 cranking rpm? does the car run? hot start ok? what's your vacuum at idle? etc etc etc.

Your stupid non-piston engine may be just fine.

while the plug boss cracks are not optimum they have nothing to do w your compression readings. as has been posted, the cracks make the housings less suitable for higher hp apps but they probably will work fine if you are around stock hp levels.

what is your anticipated power target?

you will want to run 10 heat range plugs to mitigate further cracking.

having dealt w Rotary Engine for a number of years i would highly doubt that they would sell you a pair of 55 psi housings. while not to be confused with $800 new housings your $350 housings should work fine.

many other factors influence compression and my guess is something on that list is the culprit rather than the housings.

pls post any other housing pics you have...

55psi is decent depending on the compression tester. The engine in my car (has 9.4 rotors) has about that much compression on my tester. In a couple weeks I'll have it tested with a genuine Mazda digital tester so I can see the difference in readings.

what was the RPM of this compression test, psi with out rpm is useless.?

I'm getting a noticeably low RPM crank speed. My PFC reads 13.7 volts and I'm jumping it off my truck, so low battery isn't the reason for a weak starter... I also hooked the jumpers directly to the starter to get straight to the point and I'm still getting a slow crank... Is the starter that I have just bad? I really hope my low PSI isn't because of the housings....

I didn't take anymore pics...

I was venting and after some time I'm ready to try get to the bottom of this. The tester I used is one from Orilleys with the schrader valve removed, the throttle was held open, I don't know the RPM but sounds like the starter is cranking slow and I have 13.7v powering it, the car doesn't start or even want to start.. I added starting fluid and I don't even get a hickup or anything... just slow and steady cranks...

If the engine is cranking slowly you will have poor compression. If you turn the engine by hand you will have zero compression in any engine.

If you remove the valve from the hose you will get EXTREMELY LOW READINGS, with the result's inaccuracy being relative to how long the hose is. On my gauge, 80psi compression with the valve in is about 25psi with the valve removed.

You do not have a compression problem, you have a problem elsewhere. If you had low compression your engine would crank very FAST because the starter had low load to work against.