What would you do about this eccentric shaft damage?
08-17-03, 01:53 PM
#1
What would you do about this eccentric shaft damage?
I have a 87' rx-7 with amanual transmission
[IMG]C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\key1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\key.jpg[/IMG]
I inadvertantly mashed a layer of metal off the top of the key on the flywheel side of the E-shaft while trying to install a RB lightweight steel flywheel beacause(now that i examine it more closly) of how the taper of the keying on the counterweight is compared to the key on the E-shaft, and it doesn't just flip over to fit the taper on the E-shaft hole on the counterweight only fits on the E-shaft that one way. No directions came with the flywheel so I put the flywheel and counterweight together the way it logicaly seemed to fit together like this,
[IMG]C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\flywheel.jpg[/IMG]
(except this pic doesnt have the bolts in) That pic is from the engine side of the flywheel/counterweight, which is how I tried to install it.
[IMG]C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\P8170008.JPG[/IMG]
I didnt think manual transsmissions needed a counterweight except that the stock one has some extra material on one side but the RB flywheel itself didnt have any keying or a way to attach it to the E-shaft so i figured it had to attach to the counterweight. So what are my options on this? Do I have to replace the E-shaft? Can I grind down the key a little so the counterweight and flywheel fit, or does the strength of the key affect anything as long as its lined up on the flywheel?
[IMG]C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\key1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\key.jpg[/IMG]
I inadvertantly mashed a layer of metal off the top of the key on the flywheel side of the E-shaft while trying to install a RB lightweight steel flywheel beacause(now that i examine it more closly) of how the taper of the keying on the counterweight is compared to the key on the E-shaft, and it doesn't just flip over to fit the taper on the E-shaft hole on the counterweight only fits on the E-shaft that one way. No directions came with the flywheel so I put the flywheel and counterweight together the way it logicaly seemed to fit together like this,
[IMG]C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\flywheel.jpg[/IMG]
(except this pic doesnt have the bolts in) That pic is from the engine side of the flywheel/counterweight, which is how I tried to install it.
[IMG]C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\P8170008.JPG[/IMG]
I didnt think manual transsmissions needed a counterweight except that the stock one has some extra material on one side but the RB flywheel itself didnt have any keying or a way to attach it to the E-shaft so i figured it had to attach to the counterweight. So what are my options on this? Do I have to replace the E-shaft? Can I grind down the key a little so the counterweight and flywheel fit, or does the strength of the key affect anything as long as its lined up on the flywheel?
08-17-03, 09:26 PM
#6
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The taper fit is where a lot of strength comes in. I am sure the key matters, too, but I would grind it as necessary to fit the counterweight/flywheel on and torque the nut down to the standard 350 ft-lbs. Remember to thoroughly clean the taper on the eshaft and the inner taper in the counterweight so they have a lot of friction when assembled.
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08-18-03, 12:37 AM
#8
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350 foot pounds equals a 175 pound man standing two feet down the handle of the Racing Beat / Mazdatrix flywheel nut wrench. I would use some blue loctite, myself.
You can find this wrench at Mazdatrix.com and it is about 40 bux with shipping. I just made my own flywheel holdback bar out of a $5 piece of strip iron with two holes drilled in it. You basically put the holdback bar on the flywheel using two bolts and put the wrench over the bar when tightening. The weight of the person standing on the wrench handle gets transferred to the ground through the flywheel nut, flywheel, and holdback bar.
You can find this wrench at Mazdatrix.com and it is about 40 bux with shipping. I just made my own flywheel holdback bar out of a $5 piece of strip iron with two holes drilled in it. You basically put the holdback bar on the flywheel using two bolts and put the wrench over the bar when tightening. The weight of the person standing on the wrench handle gets transferred to the ground through the flywheel nut, flywheel, and holdback bar.
08-23-03, 01:48 PM
#10
ok what i did was ground down the key just enough for the counterweight to fit over so there is still most of the key left to hold the flywheel in the proper place? then i used red loctite and a big ol' breaker bar with my 200lb dad on the end to torque it down real well....hopefully the flywheel stays in postions and doesnt go to hell and die 
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