Can you blow an engine during deceleration? I dont think mine is blown but there is something wrong with it.
Im pulling it out today after work and opening it up again...just had it running for 3 weeks after replacing the coolant and oil rings/seals. I managed to put about 850 miles on it before it just shut down on me 2 weeks ago.
I reved it to 8k and let off. when i went to shift to 4th it just shut down and there was a lot of clutch smoke/smell and it wouldnt restart. I had it towed to work. the next day i went in and it started after a few cranks...it sounded lumpier than before but it felt the same. I reved it up and again it shut down and didnt start again. It seized up, extremely hard to turn with a 1/2" ratchet and a 19 on the main pulley. the starter hardly turned it. I pulled the tranny and everything looks ok...the engine is still hard to turn by hand.
Has anyone had a similar condition or heard of anything like this? I know i'll find out for sure when i open it up but i'd like to have an idea of where to look and what to look for!
TIA!!
later
Manny

 

Sounds like you got problems. Something is locked up/jammed. Tear it open and see!

 

Next time dont rev it to hell right after a rebuld, give it some break in time.
But I have heard of alot of engines that have been rebuilt and something went wrong. So...it sucks but you can only take it apart and find out whats wrong.

 

Roll in neutral.

 

your not supose to be able to blow an apex seal out of boost

 

Confirmed!!!! its not an apex seal...all intact!!!!! Obviously, opened it up again.
My problem was a loss of oil pressure due to the oil pump bolts backing out. It caused the rear rotor's bearing to expand and it got locked up on the eccentric shaft...it craked into 3 pieces. I am about to order a new bearing and coolant seals and slap it back together!!!! I should have it running by the middle of next week.

 

It wasnt a real rebuild, I just opened it up to replace the coolant, oil and whatever other o ring that needed to be replaced. the apex, side and corner seals and springs were the same ones i had put in it 20k when the engine was rebuilt and ported.
I was a bit too aggresive, i admit that but i had over 800 miles on it and had it not been for the oil pump bolts backing out right now we wouldnt be having this conversation...lol
You live and learn, this time I'm gonna use a boatload of threadlock.
Happy to say, my engine was not leaking any oil whatsoever...when i had it rebuilt 2 years ago(20k miles) it did nothing but leak oil from the pan, turbo lines even the filler neck a little...

 

Redlining an engine with 850 miles on it won't damage it.

If engines are rebuilt and something goes wrong, it is builder error. Rotaries are pretty damn robust.

Manny, sucks to hear that happened to you. I've never heard of that one. I typically don't remove the oil pump from the front iron, there is no need to.

 

I was following the FSM and nowhere did it say to use thread lock on those bolts...needless to say, thats not happening a second time.

I had a new bearing pressed in the rotor and will be slapping it back together on Sat.