What Apex seal to use?
03-10-11, 02:03 PM
#151
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I'll mention it again, +1 for ALS seals. Great sealing/compression, and literally indestructible.
05-02-11, 05:49 PM
#156
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You, sir, are flat out WRONG. When the steel seal warps, you will live to play another day. When the brittle *** ceramic gives, it destroys the entire motor and turbo. Ceramic's have their plus side, but the negitives far outweigh any reason to use them. They don't make better compression either. This again is BS. You are correct about not wearing on rotor housings, but if you use proper pre-mix and keep everything cool, you'll be much better with any steel seal.
05-02-11, 06:23 PM
#158
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Yep, I called to talk about some 2mm seals but after ya said they're know to break on the 2step I decided to stick with what I've got. Thx for your time though.
05-03-11, 01:05 AM
#159
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No, you called and said "I bow down" "I'm kissing your ***" "I was wrong, you were right nothing lasts like the ceramics" My builder told me, your not going to like this but you know the ceramics gave us the best success in the engine. Xtreme Rotaries seals banana'd like nothing during the tune (funny how there is no mention of this here, you seem to have no problem spewing **** lies about mine but the truth about others doesn't count huh), They were willing to replace them at no cost but what was the point you said, Atkins can't take it etc etc. I said you should use a soft limiter and you didn't think that was an issue. Seems to be the only thing consistent about what you say is the BS.
Just like the ceramic corner seals you ran, you didn't provide a lick of the build spec's you agreed to. I told you specifically to oversize the CS slot because they would be tight on new rotors. Obviously that wasn't done because your engine was fine before that. Apparently you believe a corner seal needs only 0.0001" - 0.0002" clearance to the slot. Then you start a thread on the blown engine blaming the ceramics when all the while it was your own stinking fault. Not one lick of data is provided, ports are taped over and you won't cough up any of the build spec's. Still I replace the seals at no cost, they last 1 1/2 years +, something obviously the others won't do and then you start the trash talk again. I'm sick of copping heat for you; you have cost me nothing but money and $1000's in negative advertising due to your ego. And again it's your ego that prevails. I asked you if you wanted to reassess your statements for a very specific reason, your response answers it adequately for me. I don't believe there is any amount of *** kissing that will save you from yourself now.....many happy teardowns
Make sure you have enough premix and keep everything cool. I get really good prices on paper sets and water “0” rings, maybe you want to grab a bunch from me, least then I would get some value in dealing with you.
Please return my large vinyl logo's that I rushed to you for nothing at a cost of $500 because they had to be done in 2 days.
Just like the ceramic corner seals you ran, you didn't provide a lick of the build spec's you agreed to. I told you specifically to oversize the CS slot because they would be tight on new rotors. Obviously that wasn't done because your engine was fine before that. Apparently you believe a corner seal needs only 0.0001" - 0.0002" clearance to the slot. Then you start a thread on the blown engine blaming the ceramics when all the while it was your own stinking fault. Not one lick of data is provided, ports are taped over and you won't cough up any of the build spec's. Still I replace the seals at no cost, they last 1 1/2 years +, something obviously the others won't do and then you start the trash talk again. I'm sick of copping heat for you; you have cost me nothing but money and $1000's in negative advertising due to your ego. And again it's your ego that prevails. I asked you if you wanted to reassess your statements for a very specific reason, your response answers it adequately for me. I don't believe there is any amount of *** kissing that will save you from yourself now.....many happy teardowns
Make sure you have enough premix and keep everything cool. I get really good prices on paper sets and water “0” rings, maybe you want to grab a bunch from me, least then I would get some value in dealing with you.Please return my large vinyl logo's that I rushed to you for nothing at a cost of $500 because they had to be done in 2 days.
05-03-11, 05:45 AM
#160
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Sven
Its really simple. Im looking into building a spare motor and called you for some info on your 2mm seals because they do last longer, but after thinking it over I decided to steer away from the ceramics in a turbo application. Because they don't work on my high hp application without too many risks doesn't mean they wont work on somebody elses application. The corner seals sounded like a good idea too, but in the end being a test subject prolly wasn't the best choice for me. Yes your right other seals will warp but they do not break when failure occurs, which makes a rebuild much less costly. When running 800+whp the last thing needed is to replace turbo's and every part to a motor. If I were building a street car, I would choose your seals. Thx for your time again.
Its really simple. Im looking into building a spare motor and called you for some info on your 2mm seals because they do last longer, but after thinking it over I decided to steer away from the ceramics in a turbo application. Because they don't work on my high hp application without too many risks doesn't mean they wont work on somebody elses application. The corner seals sounded like a good idea too, but in the end being a test subject prolly wasn't the best choice for me. Yes your right other seals will warp but they do not break when failure occurs, which makes a rebuild much less costly. When running 800+whp the last thing needed is to replace turbo's and every part to a motor. If I were building a street car, I would choose your seals. Thx for your time again.
05-23-11, 11:11 AM
#161
Junior Member
What are your Views on 3mm Stock Apes Seals on a Full bridgeport 12a (racing beat template) can the seals handle the rpm needed to make good power ???? There are alot of mixed views on this .
06-14-11, 06:19 PM
#162
So after reading through all of this I get the feeling that the top seals with current technology are the ALS (which I've seen first hand take detonation like a champ), ceramics, and rxparts seals...A buddy of mine shattered his ceramic seals after 88 miles though so makes me worry a little there.
I think I'll go with ALS with my next hbp build...
I think I'll go with ALS with my next hbp build...
07-11-11, 07:19 AM
#163
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Im going to give some more input here with more first hand experience. If your building a 800+ hp car and NOT using meth as your fuel, NRS seals are going to be your only option. Im running a semi pport motor, balanced with every fortification done to the motor to prolong the life, ie..2 piece shaft, more dowels, stud kit, you name it, I've done it. That said, no matter if your running a safe 10.9 a/f ratio, safe egts (under 1500), the heat generated spinning upwards of 11000 rpm is just too much for a steel seal and it warps. The NRS seal is the only seal that can withstand this heat and keep good compression especially over a period of time. I will only use NRS seals from now on based on my experience.
07-11-11, 10:59 AM
#166
No bullshit here. There are a lot of people on here that look up to you and believe what you say. When you say things like that people believe it's the gospel and go strictly off "your experiences". For the record "my experiences" they work very well on E98.
07-11-11, 11:35 AM
#168
WOW.. Can't keep a motor together?
Funny how a few months ago things were different..
Steel seals work. Gotta know how to use them and what there limits are..
NRS seals have limits too.
All seals have limits and there's pro's and con's to all of them..
Till then it sounds like no matter what seal you use it's going to fail..
And honestly my opinion is E98 is safer then Meth..
If your thinking going to Meth will save your motors it's probably only going to make it worse and open up even more issues
Funny how a few months ago things were different..
Steel seals work. Gotta know how to use them and what there limits are..
NRS seals have limits too.
All seals have limits and there's pro's and con's to all of them..
Till then it sounds like no matter what seal you use it's going to fail..
And honestly my opinion is E98 is safer then Meth..
If your thinking going to Meth will save your motors it's probably only going to make it worse and open up even more issues
07-11-11, 11:50 AM
#169
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Never said it was gospel , I only stated what has happened to me. If it's working for you, that's awesome. And I'm not being a smart ***, but can u post your dyno so I can look at it. It would help me. I'm about to jump off a bridge
Rotary power
!!!
07-11-11, 12:45 PM
#172
07-11-11, 01:24 PM
#175
Ok that's it! You pissed me off!
F..k you! Your secret is out now!!!!!!!
Allen's apex seal replicator!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw
Seals for any occasion!
Roan and Sven be very wary!!!
F..k you! Your secret is out now!!!!!!!
Allen's apex seal replicator!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw
Seals for any occasion!
Roan and Sven be very wary!!!