shawnm565

iTrader: (3)

So I was watching Wheeler Dealers ha and they used a Waterless coolant. The boiling point was around 180 degree's which was far superior then water/coolant. I did some googling and found evanscooling. (
Home » Engine Cooling Systems) They make a performance coolant...

Check this out...

Boils 375F @0psi
Freezes -40F
Viscosity 2.3cp @ 212F
Surface Tension 44dyn/cm

This sounds like a very good product for rotary engines...

So what is every ones opinion on this product?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Have you tried searching? There is TONS of good info on Evans. I believe there is a thread archived in the 3rd Gen section as well.

Although it's controversial (along the lines of synthetic oil vs non), I love the stuff. Pressureless, lifetime, less chance of localized boiling, zero afterboil......

shawnm565

iTrader: (3)

Yea the post was kinda impulsive... ha I searched after I posted and I realized there was alot of posts on it! That is good to hear... I think ill wait till I rebuild the engine. It sounds like a no brainer!

prototype_uk

I have heard of this but what if you get a cooling problem eg fans stop working? I like the fact water boils and you see it as steam, that way you know you have a problem. Would you just find the temp would go through the roof with this stuff?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

^One of the more ridiculous things I've seen posted in a while.

So you'll run 100% coolant to give you the best chance of knowing when you overheat ?

peejay

I've had several "violent" cooling system failures. Only twice were there clues that anything was wrong:

Driving in city at low-moderate speed, engine suddenly started misfiring horribly. Opened hood to find #2 rotor's plug wires wet due to broken heater hose emptying cooling system at them.

Driving on highway at 60-70mph, noted lack of heat from vents. Temp gauge swept up to peg (appx. 240-250F via testing). Accelerated to 80mph then shut engine off to coast to 35mph several times until I could reach a rest area (only a couple miles away) Found cooling system empty due to a failed coolant cap on the rear end housing's tee. At no time was there any steam or odor. Maybe if I had crappy plug wires this time, I'd have noticed it sooner

Would having Evans have made a difference one way or the other? Nope.

On the other hand, will it help keep the engine temps in check when on one of my 2-minute long, low speed full-throttle dyno pulls of a rallycross run? Most likely!

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

I saw that episode recently and thought the same thing!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

The coolant may be good for that Temp,but what about the Seals?..
Like cooking an Egg in a plastic frying pan.

peejay

The seals wouldn't be seeing any temps higher than they already do.

Coolant temp doesn't necessarily mean engine temp. If there is localized boiling, the metal in that area is far hotter than the coolant temp. Its only path to cooling down is by transferring heat to areas that are still in contact with coolant.

Ever see a temp graph of the rotor housing surface? The temps of the actual rotor housing metal are shockingly high. It's a wonder that the engines don't warp even more than they already do, especially given the fact that there are two-three dissimilar metals in close proximity. (Proof of warping under heat stress - the telltale carbon marks on the housing face near the spark plugs. That's from the face warping and reducing/eliminating apex seal contact over the low spots)