it still woun't start....
#1
the white rocket
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it still woun't start....
i have an 87 turbo II car and i bought i think an 89-90 turboII and tranny
i dropped it in with very very little problems. now the only thing is that it woun't start.i have checked the coils, plugs and plugwires, crank angle sensor and the timing. checked the injectors and fuel system. and so far everything that i check out it is with in the talleranses.
IT STILL WOUN'T START
if you can help me out that would be kool.. if there is any IOWA People that can come over that would be even better
i can make your trouble wourth the trip over
Thanks, Michael
i dropped it in with very very little problems. now the only thing is that it woun't start.i have checked the coils, plugs and plugwires, crank angle sensor and the timing. checked the injectors and fuel system. and so far everything that i check out it is with in the talleranses.
IT STILL WOUN'T START
if you can help me out that would be kool.. if there is any IOWA People that can come over that would be even better
i can make your trouble wourth the trip over
Thanks, Michael
#5
You wouldnt happen to be pushing the gas pedal to the floor while starting would you? I think that shuts off fuel from the engine. (just a wild guess)
Its probably an extremely simple answer and you will feel so stupid (and possibly proud) when you find the problem.
Its probably an extremely simple answer and you will feel so stupid (and possibly proud) when you find the problem.
#6
the white rocket
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i have done tried to start it several times with my foot OFF the gas pedal.. and several times on the gas wide open... i got it to start one time off starting fluid it ran like crap.. smoked and when i hit the gas it acted like it wanted to die..... if i feathered it i could get it to rev up to 4k and that was it.... it kinda tumbled and that died... and that was it.. i just wouln't start at all....
am i missing somthing somwhere... vaccum hoses?i much fuel.. not enough fuel?
am i missing somthing somwhere... vaccum hoses?i much fuel.. not enough fuel?
#7
Just out of curiosity, while it is spinning (without the starting fluid) does it do anything else? does fuel combust? does it back/afterfire? or does it just spin?
Im just as stumped as you are. It seems that something is not getting where it should go, Have you SEEN fuel come from the injectors? have you SEEN a spark from the spark plug?
Have you tried asking this question In the second gen specific area?, this area is not patrolled too much more poeple will be able to help you there.
Im just as stumped as you are. It seems that something is not getting where it should go, Have you SEEN fuel come from the injectors? have you SEEN a spark from the spark plug?
Have you tried asking this question In the second gen specific area?, this area is not patrolled too much more poeple will be able to help you there.
Last edited by MazdaTed; 10-27-05 at 11:24 AM.
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#8
Check for good spark then timming with a timing light. try to listen for the fuel pump to prime its pretty quiet so u might listen close. and never use starting fluid because it makes alot of heat very quick and will ruin a motor. from experience.
#9
Umm, I noticed a fuse on my 91 miata today, I dont remember what it said but It wouldnt start if it were blown (I am pretty sure that they were fuel related) I am too lazy to go into the garage pull the car cover pop the hood and look to see if there are (which there probably are) and to see where they are.
This was not a typical fuse it was like a big block in a fusebox, so a good assumpion would be a relay or a fuse.
Yeah, starting fluid can ruin you too, I think most starting fluid is like 100% ether or something, that crap is explosive.
This was not a typical fuse it was like a big block in a fusebox, so a good assumpion would be a relay or a fuse.
Yeah, starting fluid can ruin you too, I think most starting fluid is like 100% ether or something, that crap is explosive.
#10
the white rocket
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i checked the spark plugs.. and theres spark, pulled the fuel rail off and checked the injeckors, cleaned then and they are getting fuel. i put a timing lite on and nothing from the light, i know the light works i tried it on my truck to make sure..... but that odd... cuz the car stumbles every now and then... pulled the crank angle senor out and retimed everything... and nothing works... bout it be in the ECU then?
#12
wait, you said that the timing light didnt do anything? You said that you already checked the timing right? what did it do then? same thing?
And yes there is such a thing as getting too much fuel. You should test that, and how your going to do that, I dont know.
Got check engine light? probably not, but it cant hurt to run diagnostics.
Have you checked for fuses (everything should have a fuse of some sort...somewhere)? have you checked that it is not flooded? have you asked in the second gen specific area?
And yes there is such a thing as getting too much fuel. You should test that, and how your going to do that, I dont know.
Got check engine light? probably not, but it cant hurt to run diagnostics.
Have you checked for fuses (everything should have a fuse of some sort...somewhere)? have you checked that it is not flooded? have you asked in the second gen specific area?
#13
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i have checked every fuse that i can find... twice, how do i run diagnostics on this thing?
after i checked the timing.. i didn't get anything out of it... the timing light woun't flash on this car... but it will on all of my other cars.... but every now and then the car will kick over and want to start...... but i just kinda lost
after i checked the timing.. i didn't get anything out of it... the timing light woun't flash on this car... but it will on all of my other cars.... but every now and then the car will kick over and want to start...... but i just kinda lost
#14
I think there is a wire that you ground (under the hood). then you turn the key to the on postion and count the times the check engine light blinks. Then a book should tell you what the code is (I think we sell that book at autozone).
I think...
its possible that nothing will happen... probably nothing will happen... but it wont hurt to try.
Im stumped. Keep trying.
I think...
its possible that nothing will happen... probably nothing will happen... but it wont hurt to try.
Im stumped. Keep trying.
#21
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Just skimming along here.
He got it to run (roughly) on starter fluid, so the ignition may not be perfect, but it's there.
If the plugs are wet - it's flooding.
If the plugs are dry - check the fuel pressure. (key on, fuel pump jumper in)
He got it to run (roughly) on starter fluid, so the ignition may not be perfect, but it's there.
If the plugs are wet - it's flooding.
If the plugs are dry - check the fuel pressure. (key on, fuel pump jumper in)
#23
the white rocket
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Originally Posted by westler91
Is the battery fully charged????
Is the ECu hooked up properly?
Are you getting spark????
Is your girl gonna give up some *** to make it worth my time to help you???
Is the ECu hooked up properly?
Are you getting spark????
Is your girl gonna give up some *** to make it worth my time to help you???
the battery is at 13.1 all the time.. (stinger spv144 yellow top)
there is only one way to hook up the ECU that i can find.
i know there is spark... cuz i knocked my room mate on his A@@
andi don't think my old lady would go for that... i'm sure one of ger friends might if you like dumb blondes
#24
Taste great, more filling
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haha, I did a swap two weekends ago in my 87 NA, and I've got the same thing - I probably can't help you much unless you want to start a club or something, but here's some things I tried that you haven't mentioned yet, most involve a multimeter, you can get a cheap one at Walmart for $10
1. Measure the voltage at the fuel injectors, one side or the other should give 12v when the key is on. The other side is apparently a switched ground that will connect only when starting and when the engine is running? I haven't tested that yet, but if you set your meter to Continuity (looks like >>>) then it'll beep when you get ground, but it might be too fast to tell.
2. Check all the fuses under dash - with car off, set your meter to continuity and you can just go through the fuse box touching the leads on your meter to the points on the top of the fuse - if it beeps it's good. If it doesn't beep take out the fuse and check it.
(if your meter doesn't have continuity, turn it to ohms (looks like an upside down U) and look for a low number (usually less than 10) (watch out for the decimal point)
3. Make sure your fuel lines aren't on backwards - even if you're reasonably sure you got them on right, it might be worth switching them just to test and be sure. Remember which way they're on to start with. And according to some posts on here, the position of the two fuel lines going under the intake manifold has been known to be different between engines. (Like fuel return is on the left on the old engine and on the right on the new), supposedly this is particularly true if swapping between a US spec engine and a J spec engine.
4. Look carefully to make sure all your plugs are hooked up again.
5. Check your firing order, just to be sure. I'd tell you what I think mine is, but I'm not anywhere near the car and I'd hate to tell you wrong. On my car, the only thing that I remember for sure is that each coil has a wire that goes to a lead on one bank and a trail on the other.
Good luck! I'll try to keep you informed as I find out more things to check!
1. Measure the voltage at the fuel injectors, one side or the other should give 12v when the key is on. The other side is apparently a switched ground that will connect only when starting and when the engine is running? I haven't tested that yet, but if you set your meter to Continuity (looks like >>>) then it'll beep when you get ground, but it might be too fast to tell.
2. Check all the fuses under dash - with car off, set your meter to continuity and you can just go through the fuse box touching the leads on your meter to the points on the top of the fuse - if it beeps it's good. If it doesn't beep take out the fuse and check it.
(if your meter doesn't have continuity, turn it to ohms (looks like an upside down U) and look for a low number (usually less than 10) (watch out for the decimal point)
3. Make sure your fuel lines aren't on backwards - even if you're reasonably sure you got them on right, it might be worth switching them just to test and be sure. Remember which way they're on to start with. And according to some posts on here, the position of the two fuel lines going under the intake manifold has been known to be different between engines. (Like fuel return is on the left on the old engine and on the right on the new), supposedly this is particularly true if swapping between a US spec engine and a J spec engine.
4. Look carefully to make sure all your plugs are hooked up again.
5. Check your firing order, just to be sure. I'd tell you what I think mine is, but I'm not anywhere near the car and I'd hate to tell you wrong. On my car, the only thing that I remember for sure is that each coil has a wire that goes to a lead on one bank and a trail on the other.
Good luck! I'll try to keep you informed as I find out more things to check!
#25
Taste great, more filling
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I just talked to a guy that builds racing rotary engines in Dallas, and he says that sometimes if the engine has set for a while, the seals will stick, and to try the ATF trick and see what that does - it's listed as an unflooding procedure I think in the 2nd gen RX7 forum archives, it involves pouring ATF down a hose on the intake on the driver's side of the car - he recommends about half a quart. I'm going to try it when I get home today and see if that does it. I'm getting tired of being a ride-*****.