wireman

how many grounds are there on this cars in the engine bay? you think if i put a few more in this thing that might be the problem?

i have checked all the fuses and they are all good,
i think that part of the problem might be the fuel regualtor.... is there one that you don;t have to run with vaccum?

fc3stech

have you tried push starting it to see what would happen? this has solved a few problems before

MazdaTed

see, told ya someone with more experience than me could help ya better.

On to the firing order, if you havent checked yet, MY coils have something like t1, t2, l1, l2 written on them for leading 1,2 trailing 1,2. I am not sure which ones share the same coil, I think it is the leading that shares the same coil (I know that it is the one behind the drivers headlight that share one, and the other two are on the drivers inner fender).
I am pretty sure that the top plugs are the leading plugs and the botom are the trailing, if all this hasnt been coverd here yet(which I didnt see it coverd), and if you didnt know (probably you do know).

stacher

The ECU on a 87 t2 is different from a 89-91 t2.

Other than that, I suggest to push start it. Tow it behind a car to about 30 mph, with the ignition on the "ON' position, then start releasing the cluch in 2nd gear. It should start.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Good idea - and after that it will be fine again, or would we theoretically have to pull start it every time?

DocMazda

mine did that when i swapped my old engine with a newer one. turns out just a whole lot of little **** was screwing it up. i would MAKE SURE the vacuum is completely sealed (i.e. no cheap *** silicone hoses for your rats nest if you have it. in fact, i simplified the problem by removing the rats nest) check for your couplers for intercooler. DEFINITELY check the fuel lines like the guy above posted. go for the plug wires as well. i BELIEVE the wires are as follows;

Front of the engine bay is leading. i think drivers side plug wire is L1, passenger side is L2. rear of engine bay (by the steering wheel) is trailing i think the front is T1 and the rear is T2. then on the block, the spark-plugs on top are Trailing and the Bottom is Leading. oh yeah, get a new fuel filter while youre checking the fuel lines (if you havent changed it with the swap. ESPECIALLY if the car has been sitting for x-amount of months. also, if you have a s5 engine/harness in an s4 body, you have the s5 ecu right?? also, i believe the afm for s4 and s5 are different as well. so, you may want to make sure you have that correct as well. oh yes, another good thing to do, take out your spark plugs and at LEAST clean them. with all this trying to start it business, i bet your engine is hella flooded--yo. anyway, just take out your plugs, clean the **** out of them, unplug your fuel pump, and just try to start it to vent some of that gas out. i had to do this at a gas station before i went rtek1.7. also as stated before. IF the engine was sitting for a prolonged period of time, the seals could have seized, and you should try the atf trick. um....half a quart seems to be a bit excessive, but ive never had to personally do this. anyway, IF you do that, when it starts and you run it for a bit just to be sure, change that oil. i think thats about the extent of my knowledge of rx7's not running after a swap. as far as electronics are concerned, better stick with other members that have messed with electronics. i have yet to really have an electronics problem (thank-whatever it is that could be controlling this urine soaked hell hole we call earth....right?!) so, my experience is rather latent here.

Hope that stuff helps.

Ry.

wireman

just woundering what does push starting do for it?....


i have been around the car world for a while and i don't think ihave heard of push starting it to solve a prob... but then again i am still kinda new to the whole RX7 world

wireman

i have an S5 block but i put my S4 harness back on to it... so would some of the senors be sending diff. signs to the ECU?

MazdaTed

I push start a vehicles at autozone when sombody cant get their starter to turn over the engine.

BTW it is better to pull start a car than push start one, I hit my face real hard while push starting a jacked up 'yoda truck, when the guy dumped the clutch, the truck stopped, that hurt for days...

wireman

well i now have a new problem...

the car now starts on its own and as soon as it catches it stall.. if i touch the foot feed it stalls quicker.... if i go full open it catches and stall but when i take my foot off and try it will catch and run a tiny bit...

i have replaced the plugs, wires, and the fuel pump


so now it catches and stalls quickly.. what now?

MazdaTed

I am not sure of what you are saying, It starts runs (for a second) and stalls?

DocMazda

are you using s5 sensors or s4 sensors with your s4 wire harness. many small items changed during the series change. i would start looking into that first.

wireman

that is what it is doing and i touch the gas it will stall even quicker

wireman

i didn't change any of the S5 sensors when i dropped the motor in... so now which ones do i change to make it work?

also i hooded a fuel pressure gauge up the the return line and i get (0 psi) what does this mean and how do i fix this?

rajahFD

i know what you're trying to say man. i have a mechanic looking at it right now. it'll turn on, idle high, then die. it happened to my FD. people would say it's my fuel filter, others say injectors, and others say it's my ground cables, or fuel pump. who knows. i have checked all of the above, and nothing, so im having paul from rotorsports in santa clara, ca take a look at it. this problem sucks because it's REAL frustrating.

the car will crank and start, idle for AT LEAST 5 seconds, then die and it will also die out faster if you tap the gas. yup yup.

i hope it's something stupid and i dont have to pay 600+ for it. best of luck to you (and me).

wireman

well at least your will idle high.... mine will crank over and catch like it wants to start.. and it stalls. its like somthing is telling to stall.


if you have to much fuel pressure at the injectors whould the injecots not open like they should?

Quadulus

Is your fuel pressure regulator stuck? That can cause the problem you are describing. It will stick barely open.. enough to get pressure. The car will start and as it leans out the idle will increase until there is not enough gas left to run.

Let me know how you turn out.

Travis

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Alright, try tow starting it -

I was skeptical, but I got my dad to tow me down the road with his F150 pickup a few times, and now it'll start - unfortunately I found I have a bad filler neck on the used engine so I couldn't hold the idle open, but I was impressed with the results. Like I said before, mine didn't even TRY to catch before, it just sounded like spinning an empty engine, we towed it down the road and back, (I let the clutch out slow in 1st and had him tow me at about 20 mph) and could only get a few pops out of it by feathering the gas) and we were about to call it quits and go try something else - I said "Well, let's try one more time" and we towed it about halfway to the end of the road, and it caught and ran, I kept feathering the gas to where I was still letting him pull me but running on my own power, and when we got to the end of the road and he stopped, I pressed in the clutch and held the revs to about 3k and it was running on its own after 3 weeks of fighting! About that time smoke started pouring out from under the hood (well, steam it turns out) and when I let it get back down to idle it died again. Tried to start it and it barely started to catch - So we let it cool down and towed it back to the house, this time when we stopped he unhooked the tow rope and I drove it into the driveway, and he popped the hood and sprayed the radiator with my garden hose (while hot steam went EVERYWHERE from that filler cap) and I kept it revving about 4 grand until the temp gauge got to around 4/5's of the way up, and I dropped it back down to idle, where it held a little longer before dying. Then before he left I tried it again and it gave a really concerted effort to start. So tomorrow I'm going to install a new fan, replace that filler neck, and do the ATF trick, then tow start it again - if I can get to where I can sit in the car and run it on it's own for 15-20 minutes, I think it'll be fine.

Only words of advice are pick a street that's not too busy and not too many stupid kids and dogs around (it's not comfortable when you're essentially tailgating someone and you can't see in front of them, just a fear of them locking up the brakes for someone and you plowing into the back of them) don't expect instant results, (figure on like 3 or 4 miles of towing) and remember, a 20 foot tow cable seems INCREDIBLY short at 25 mph, and let out the clutch slow, especially if you do it in first which is probably bad for the tranny. If everything else is hooked up fine, and even probably if you have a small vac leak, it SHOULD start up! Once it does start, keep it going, like 3k-4k for 15 or 20 minutes and really clear that carbon off.

Let us know how it works out!

rajahFD

well guys it so happens that, my computer is fucked. maybe that's your problem as well, who knows. but yeah, the diagnosis was an internal problem within the computer (my apexi power fc w/ commander). im buying one on monday and installing it. also, the engine was serverly flooded, so remove your sparkplugs and drain the bitch. you should try switching out the computer with a friends or something, and see how that goes because that was my problem, and i had the SAME problem as you, so maybe that's it.

oh yeah, and my engine WAS running TOO rich for a couple of days before it went out like that, was yours running too rich??



edit: more info/question

rajahFD

apparently it would make your car run too rich (as in my case)

wireman

mine has never ran. from what i can gather it starts and stall with in catcing... so my guess it would be runing to lean

i don't know anyone here in IOWA that i can talk to and swap out computers.

rajahFD

yeah that's what mine would do, turn on, idle for like 7 seconds tops, then die and everytime you EVEN touch the gas, it would die. yeah man, i think it's your computer, dont the stock computers for your year go for about 100 at the most on ebay? not sure. you should try a performance one and ask for the return policy, hopefully you can get your whole refund if the computer isnt the case with your car. best of luck to you man, oh and remove your spark plugs to see if it's flooded, most likely it will from being cranked so much, again, that was the case with me. hehe

wireman

what kind of ECU (aftermarket) is a good one for the FC turbo

rajahFD

i heard the GReddy ECU was good, but don't take it from me hehe







edit: messed up link

wireman

Update:

i got the old girl running tonight... and you were right.. i just had to pull start it down to the end of the street and she took off... she popped, ratled, coughed, and blew smoke at me for a while but the more and more i drove her the better it got.

now i have a new set of QUESTIONS.

now why is it that when i am in 2nd gear starting to accelerate i start to build boost and when it starts to build it loads up untill i let off... but when i ease into it i know problem?

also how much boost (if your looking at the Factory gauge) should you be running at?
tonight i hit 40-42psi a couple of times while triing to get the bugs out.
also i had a buddy watch as i pulled away from him and he saw flames out the back when it started to load up and saw nothing when i eased into it... whats going on now

how do i get the idle speed down? at idle it is running at 1500 and it sergase up and down.