HardDrive

Now for the details:

1.Its only smokes after i shift and THEN start to accelerate again.
2.It only does it when the engine temp has not reach running temp yet.
3.If I accelerate light it wont smoke
4.Its a shitload of white smoke

once it reachs normal running temp it stops and acts just fine.

other than Waiting everytime I fire it up to warm up all the way, does anyone have a fix and what causes this?
I did a search but I am search inpared and did not come up with anything related...

Thanks in advance!

HardDrive

Forgot to add its a 1991 2nd gen

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like side seals or oil injection thats the only way to get oil into where it will burn. Does it do it when it pulls a lot of vacuum with the throttle closed at high rpm? Or, only when you get back on the throttle. The timing of when the smoke shows up is very important as your best clue.

HardDrive

Only when I get into the throttle

HardDrive

So you think this is a easy fix or no? I dont know a hell of a lot about the rotary setup. just enough to be dangerous.

HardDrive

anyone?

beqa16v

It would have been very bad if it was smoking during deceleration. That would have meant a rebuild (coolant seals).
It is important to identify what kind of smoke it is. Can you distinguish oil smoke from coolant smoke? They smell and look differently (If you can smell it during driving of course).

I would suggest you watch your coolant temps, get a decent coolant temp gauge if you can, you will need it anyway. If the car overheats, or you have problems with losing coolant than it is a coolant seal issue.

HardDrive

Nah the coolant is fine, and it seems to me to be oil smoke, coolant smoke has that sickly sweet smell to it this smells like burning oil.
And yeah i allready have one car crator due to overheating so i watch that like a hawk now..

beqa16v

I do not have that much experience with oil burning issues (and completely no experience with FC) but when you think about it there are only two ways the oil can get into there: oil rings and oil injection. Probably more experienced FC guys can give you some info on what can go wrong with that oiling system and how to check it. If it does not help then i think the oil seals are gone which is pretty rare i guess.
The best way to check the oiling system would be to disable it somehow and use premix for a while and see if it smokes.

It is a bit primitive but if your car is turbo, maybe the seal has failed and lets oil into the intake did you check that?

HardDrive

its non turbo

beqa16v

then disable the metering oil pump and use appropriate amount of premix. If it does not help then its something else, probably oil ring. Ask experienced FC guys as well, they know better than me

HardDrive

yeah been hoping one would reply...
Thanks for al your input.

darkblaze

i have slightly the same issue. but it ONLY happens when shes cold. could my OMP seals inside the omp be bad and cause it to constantly pump oil into the engine? if so ill get a OMP rebuild kit from napa. (edit) Also are the 12a OMP and the 13B OMP different? if not can i use the 12a omp?

bumpstart

usually this one shows up worse in turbo cars,, but NA will do it to if blowby past the side and corner seals is excessive

usually this smoking is indicating a pressurised sump space , and the reapplication of the peddle opens the purge valve to vent it into the TB
( thus carrying with it some oil vapour and making the car smoke )




ones that do it when cold,, may be indicating when cold,, sideseal clearances are poor ( for more blowby )
they may also be indicating oil control rings have some issue and seal up when warm
( or that the thermal pellet is seized shut ( better than open !! ) allowing excessive oil pressure cold )



check that the purge valve is hooked up and operational ( and not just a sealed up sump )
check the inside of the hose to see if oil residue is making its way along it
if it is,, thicker oil,, and a catch can / mist separator may just help


if its oil contol rings and seals,, thicker oil ( to a point ) will help with the worn rubbers,, though too thick will not help the worn cases

in this situ,, i recommend a 25w-70,, or even 40w-70 engine oil
( if you are in a frigid area,, disregard,, these oils will need minimum ambient around 5 centigrade )

Kentetsu

If the issue is related to oil control rings, Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer can greatly reduce the symptoms. I used to run a quart (replacing one quart of motor oil) with every oil change on my old motor. It took care of about 90% of the oil smoke.

Good luck.








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juicyjosh

iTrader: (29)

^ That's officially the worst combination of misspelling, terrible grammar, misinformation and bad advice I've read on this forum in about a month. ^

He says the oil "rings and seals" are made of rubber.

"Yeah, run some 25-70 and put in a catch can."

Also notice bs's trader score. I've actually never seen a -1 for that.

bumpstart

are you for real mate?
i have 20 year experience with mazda rotaries, real experience that doesn't come from a check book or off the net
check my rep,, worldwide

your oil control rubbers are exactly that.. and the rings are hard chromes, and no where have i stated other -wise
the post above refers to the thicker oil helping the worn rubbers ( INSIDE THE CHROME CASES YOU MORON )
but too thicker an oil doesnt help a worn CHROME case from riding over the film

as for my trader score,, why dont you check out why,, and my response??
i was blackmailed for a motor build by someone plainly sticking a rotor from a totally different engine in a picture and claiming that is what i built

-- and without any evidence,, no follow up oil analysis as demanded to prove the rotors came from different dead engines
( which was obvious to the eye just observing the carboning and the oil colours )

with it,, i have posted umpteen,, pictures of the detailed build as it had progressed -- clearly with the correct rotors ( and even a witness )
and the 325 RWHP at 14 psi with excellent AFR's was done when the motor was 200 km new,, on my bum tune
oh,, and by the way,, i put in two decent housings,, and charged $1000 AUS total


with that much evidence from my end,, what did the person do that lodged the complaint??
NOTHING,, no oil analysis ,, disappeared off the rotary scene after he tried this same scam on ausrotary
-- and the self minded people there could plainly see the different carbon, oil,, and his lies
-- i also pointed out there that that individual uses multiple accounts to badger traders into deals / freebies and had previously rorted the ASI radiator guy and the carbon fibre guy

so,, ima stuck with a bad trader score as this system is clearly open to abuse,, despite altruistic intentions
-- and thats why other sites dont run a trader score system


if you think ima bad trader,, or give bad advice,, why don't you go through some of my 6000 + technical posts worldwide,, looking for grammar and spelling errors,, you ********

bumpstart

so ,, i just ran the spell check over it,, assided a couple of abbreviated words
-- i have spelt "control" wrong ONCE



f---ing ****
for the OP,, if you cant interpret what i have originally written ( in english )
sorry if i don't spell in AMERICAN or occasionally miss out the apostrophe

- if your purge system is modded ,, and the sump sealed,, it will smoke

if the oil control case or rubbers are shagged,, it will smoke

if the side seal and corner seals clearances are excessive ( usually cold )
then the purge system cant cope with the volumes of gas it must move to prevent the sump from pressuring from the blowby
- in this situ,, gas will pressurise the sump,, this affects the drain of oils that return to the sump via the centre plate ( from the rotors )
and instead its forced into the intake area suction zone across the oil cases

- and similarly,, oil is often present in the purge pipework indicating that the volumes of air moving from sump to inlet via the purge system is carrying oil with it
( hence knock out catch can may be necessary )

HardDrive

BumpStart i have read over what you have said and based off what i know about these engines this sounds reasonable and very logical, I also took the liberty to discuss this with other RX7 owners and they agree with what you have had to say here.
please forgive the ignorance of some people,

I thank you for your post as it was most informative!