Recommended Gasolene?
#1
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Recommended Gasolene?
So I have 1988 RX7 Convertible. I was contemplating what brand of gas to use. The one brand of gas I do not use is ARCO gas and no name brand stations. The gas stations I have near me is a Valero, which I know to be a US brand and Chevron as well as a no name place.
The Valero currently is 3.05 and Chevron is 3.15 if I remember correctly, these are prices for both regular, in Spring Valley, CA, east San Diego County, CA.
What do people recommend to go with and stay away from?
The Valero currently is 3.05 and Chevron is 3.15 if I remember correctly, these are prices for both regular, in Spring Valley, CA, east San Diego County, CA.
What do people recommend to go with and stay away from?
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#12
http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html
Another note, "Sunoco Canada" isnt the same as "Sunoco" in the US, as they have listings for both US and Canada stations. I use to go to Sunoco until I came across that list, much to my surprise a local quick stop station is on there.
I wouldnt say stations not listed there are bad, but if I can easily go to one on that list before another, I will. Dont forget that ALL stations have to meet minimal standards and none should Harm your car.
Also, did anyone else notice the motor in that commercial is mirrored? lol
Another note, "Sunoco Canada" isnt the same as "Sunoco" in the US, as they have listings for both US and Canada stations. I use to go to Sunoco until I came across that list, much to my surprise a local quick stop station is on there.
I wouldnt say stations not listed there are bad, but if I can easily go to one on that list before another, I will. Dont forget that ALL stations have to meet minimal standards and none should Harm your car.
Also, did anyone else notice the motor in that commercial is mirrored? lol
Last edited by Char; 09-09-10 at 08:07 PM.
#16
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
gas is gas is gas is gas
there really is only minimal differences that you get when you buy gas at a quick stop, or chevron or shell or valero or wherever. i do a bit of driving in my FC so i have to get gas where i can and i notice very little in the differences of quality of gasoline from even the highest cost stations to the cheapest because refer to my opening statement.
now keep in mind that if i get a **** tank of gas pushing 15PSI then i will know that i got a tank of poor fuel or the wrong octane rating because i would instantly have a brick to push around.
so which gas is best for a rotary? the cheapest station you can find, because at least then you can afford to do other things to the car. a bad tank of gas can come from ANY station, i have seen water leech into tanks at even the most expensive stations.. but in these days and times that is rare to happen because the tanks are changed every few years to keep the fuel from leaking into ground water. if there is a bad tank of fuel it is coming straight from the refinery.
so in my opinion save your money and the ONLY reason you should pay more for fuel is to save time waiting in line at the cheap stations. i only visit them when i am in a hurry or have no other alternative. this goes for ALL applications, my car isn't a weakling or non turbo where it really doesn't matter what fuel you use, i run a microtech T70 turbo and octane and good fuel is a necessity.
from testing these are rough figures of average american octane ratings and detonation failure in most moderate to highly modded rotary applications where you will have the end result of typical engine failures of cracked irons or broken seals. these figures ONLY apply to turbo rotaries:
87 octane 8 psi
89 octane 13 psi
91 octane 18 psi
yes, for a period of time while commuting about 100 miles a day i was testing to see how far i could go even on 87 octane fuel.. my results ended with a chipped seal at 8 psi on 87 octane, audible detonation at 13psi and a broken rear iron at 18+psi all without auxiliary injection. don't worry, the testing still cost less than the extra fuel costs during the tests. i will however NOT redo these tests for consistency.
for the non turbo rotary owners, 87 octane is ok for all applications. higher octane on non turbo rotaries will not result in improved performance.
there really is only minimal differences that you get when you buy gas at a quick stop, or chevron or shell or valero or wherever. i do a bit of driving in my FC so i have to get gas where i can and i notice very little in the differences of quality of gasoline from even the highest cost stations to the cheapest because refer to my opening statement.
now keep in mind that if i get a **** tank of gas pushing 15PSI then i will know that i got a tank of poor fuel or the wrong octane rating because i would instantly have a brick to push around.
so which gas is best for a rotary? the cheapest station you can find, because at least then you can afford to do other things to the car. a bad tank of gas can come from ANY station, i have seen water leech into tanks at even the most expensive stations.. but in these days and times that is rare to happen because the tanks are changed every few years to keep the fuel from leaking into ground water. if there is a bad tank of fuel it is coming straight from the refinery.
so in my opinion save your money and the ONLY reason you should pay more for fuel is to save time waiting in line at the cheap stations. i only visit them when i am in a hurry or have no other alternative. this goes for ALL applications, my car isn't a weakling or non turbo where it really doesn't matter what fuel you use, i run a microtech T70 turbo and octane and good fuel is a necessity.
from testing these are rough figures of average american octane ratings and detonation failure in most moderate to highly modded rotary applications where you will have the end result of typical engine failures of cracked irons or broken seals. these figures ONLY apply to turbo rotaries:
87 octane 8 psi
89 octane 13 psi
91 octane 18 psi
yes, for a period of time while commuting about 100 miles a day i was testing to see how far i could go even on 87 octane fuel.. my results ended with a chipped seal at 8 psi on 87 octane, audible detonation at 13psi and a broken rear iron at 18+psi all without auxiliary injection. don't worry, the testing still cost less than the extra fuel costs during the tests. i will however NOT redo these tests for consistency.
for the non turbo rotary owners, 87 octane is ok for all applications. higher octane on non turbo rotaries will not result in improved performance.
#17
^^ He's right.
All gas stations in your region get the fuel from the same pipeline, meaning that all fuel is identical coming from the same refinery. Where the differences arrive is in the additives each brand uses, which is really just a fuel system cleaner in very small doses (which you should be adding to your tank every 3k mi anyways). Generic/cheap stations just don't add fuel cleaning additives, but their gas is NO DIFFERENT from the big names.
Another difference can arrive from the maintenance on the station's pumps and tanks. Big names/newer stations may be less likely to serve you sludge and water than some generic ghetto station with 50 year old rusted tanks.
- Run highest available octane in boosted engives, no matter the brand name.
- Add pre-mix to each tank, to preserve & lubricate the rotary engine (like ProTek-R or similar).
- Use a bottle of fuel system cleaner like SeaFoam every 3,000 miles (in the fuel tank).
- I was told by Cam at Pettit to try to avoid ethanol whenever possible, or add a few gallons of racing gas to each fillup if you can't avoid ethanol, esp in high boost engines. (Note that our friendly fascist Federal government is trying to mandate another 5% increase in ethanol -- bringing it to 15% per gallon -- which will only be bad for any high performance engine; please vote the bums out.)
Thats my $.02
All gas stations in your region get the fuel from the same pipeline, meaning that all fuel is identical coming from the same refinery. Where the differences arrive is in the additives each brand uses, which is really just a fuel system cleaner in very small doses (which you should be adding to your tank every 3k mi anyways). Generic/cheap stations just don't add fuel cleaning additives, but their gas is NO DIFFERENT from the big names.
Another difference can arrive from the maintenance on the station's pumps and tanks. Big names/newer stations may be less likely to serve you sludge and water than some generic ghetto station with 50 year old rusted tanks.
- Run highest available octane in boosted engives, no matter the brand name.
- Add pre-mix to each tank, to preserve & lubricate the rotary engine (like ProTek-R or similar).
- Use a bottle of fuel system cleaner like SeaFoam every 3,000 miles (in the fuel tank).
- I was told by Cam at Pettit to try to avoid ethanol whenever possible, or add a few gallons of racing gas to each fillup if you can't avoid ethanol, esp in high boost engines. (Note that our friendly fascist Federal government is trying to mandate another 5% increase in ethanol -- bringing it to 15% per gallon -- which will only be bad for any high performance engine; please vote the bums out.)
Thats my $.02
#20
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
The delivery trucks are another problem area. There are only two octanes used for the three grades. Guess what happens when they ordered more fuel than the tank holds? Right, they empty it into the other tank. This can raise or lower your octane number!
We always sumped the fuel truck before accepting jet fuel for our helicopters. We had good results with designated Exxon or Chevron trucks, but sometimes a bulk carrier was used. Their tanks were not always properly cleaned between non-fuel loads. This resulted in sending whole truckloads back.
Barry
We always sumped the fuel truck before accepting jet fuel for our helicopters. We had good results with designated Exxon or Chevron trucks, but sometimes a bulk carrier was used. Their tanks were not always properly cleaned between non-fuel loads. This resulted in sending whole truckloads back.
Barry
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