r152a with bittering agent A/C refrigerant
r152a with bittering agent A/C refrigerant
Any1 know, or that has converted to r152a, if the r152a with the bittering agent is OK to use?
Tough to find dusting spray cans that don't have the bittering agent.
Tough to find dusting spray cans that don't have the bittering agent.
I'm using R152A in my FC with no issues, and it has the bittering agent in it. Don't think they can sell it without the bittering agent, at least in the USA.
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I did, since I was restoring the system after the compressor took a dump. Replaced the expansion valve and dryer with new ones, new compressor, and flushed all the reused parts (i.e., evap core, condenser and all pipes/hoses). Also replaced all the O-rings with the green (HBNR) rings which are compatible with R134a/R152a, and for lube I used an Ester 100 oil, which is compatible with R134a, R152a and R12 in case I ever decided to go back to R12. Since the R152a stuff is cooling me just as well as the old R12, I haven't bothered.
Pete,
Thx much. Your compressor having taken a dump got my attention. That's my concern since the condenser and evaporator are no longer available.
Was the failed compressor the OEM Nippon Denso? How many miles did it have on it when it failed?
My 7 is an '87 TII in the family since new. It being in coastal CA for the past 30 years A/C was hardly used during those initial years and not used afterwards because A/C no longer cooled from low R12. I'd say after @ around the 50K miles the compressor belt came off.
Now the car is in FL, have to bring it back to life. To my surprise the system still had plenty of pressure in it. Gladly the compressor (clutch engaged) does turn freely by hand.
Thx much. Your compressor having taken a dump got my attention. That's my concern since the condenser and evaporator are no longer available.
Was the failed compressor the OEM Nippon Denso? How many miles did it have on it when it failed?
My 7 is an '87 TII in the family since new. It being in coastal CA for the past 30 years A/C was hardly used during those initial years and not used afterwards because A/C no longer cooled from low R12. I'd say after @ around the 50K miles the compressor belt came off.
Now the car is in FL, have to bring it back to life. To my surprise the system still had plenty of pressure in it. Gladly the compressor (clutch engaged) does turn freely by hand.
I had maybe 140K miles on the original (as far as I know) ND compressor when it seized. Basically I found that the O-ring on the dryer's high pressure side blew out while driving down the highway, and it must have ran dry of lube before the pressure switch could detect the pressure drop and stop the compressor from fragging itself. A/C belt made a racket squealing & snapped shortly after the compressor seized, so I pulled over to assess the damage.
Replacement generic compressors sized to fit are cheap and readily available, but you'll need to do a little custom plumbing & make some brackets to use one. Used evap cores are your only option there as far as I know.
Replacement generic compressors sized to fit are cheap and readily available, but you'll need to do a little custom plumbing & make some brackets to use one. Used evap cores are your only option there as far as I know.
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