adictd2b00st

ok i bought my fd at the end of summer, drove it for i'd say less than a month and put it away for winter. i'd always read up on the premixing thing, and never found it "necessary" so i hadn't. well, tonite i just realised that since my car has haltec e6k, the oil metering pump is no longer being controlled! which has got me all paranoid...... how would i know if anything got damaged? what can i check without actually pulling the motor? i didn't drive the car THAT much when i had it on the road, so i'm kinda hoping its still ok....... :help:

2Lucky2tha7

iTrader: (3)

Just run pre-mix from now on. If you're really worried about any possible "extra" wear, then just do a quick compression check for ***** and giggles.

HeffBoost

There's really no way to know unless you had a benchmark (before) compression test to measure a current one against.

How many tanks of gas did you put through it in that month?

It's probably no big deal, but it makes me cringe to think of the apex seals doing all that traveling against the housing w/o lubrication.

Well, you certainly won't make that mistake again. And you probably learned a bunch in the process of worrying about it.

Cheers

adictd2b00st

yea i'm trying to think how many times i filled it up in that month........the part that is the worst tho is that i took it to the track in that time, and made a bunch of passes.....ugh the motor only has 10k on it too.... it has ceramic apex seals which makes me really worry that the housing got chewed up

and yes i'll NEVER make that mistake again, haltec or no haltec i will always premix

Syonyk

What does the FD OMP do without a ECU signal? It should still pump some oil... It might not be pumping as much oil as the engine really could use, but there still should be some lubrication.

-=Russ=-

adictd2b00st

i was under the impression that since its electronic and not mechanical like the fc one that there was no way for it to get any signal at all with the haltec, anyone know the answer to this?

adictd2b00st

found this in another thread which gives me some hope atleast

"I drove my '80 for 2000 miles before I realized the OMP was inoperative. Hmm, wonder why it doesn't use any oil... So I started premixing oil and the engine ran great for another 28,000mi, at which point I drove it long distance with snow blocking the airflow to the oil cooler, cooking the oil. Used over 3 quarts in a weekend. Still ran great, though. (It was cold enough that the radiator didn't need airflow - the heat loss through the heater is more than enough)

A friend of mine used to work at a Mazda dealer and said the cars would come in all the time with no compression - the OMPs would fail and eventually they'd lose compression to the point where they wouldn't start. Dump a capful of oil down each intake bore and BAROOM!!! they'd fire right up and run great again. Fix the OMP and send 'er back out again! "

funny thing is my oil level was moving like it should, i added to it about twice in the time that the car was on the road.....

adictd2b00st

no one else has ANY insight into this?

mark57

I know of a 3mm streetport engine built in Florida by an idiot who didn't hook up an OMP properly. This car was dyno'd and then driven to New Orleans, where after the turbo improperly installed and burned up by afore mentioned idiot, the OMP situation was discovered. Incredibly, the engine appears not to have been damaged. This car made well over 400 WHP.

adictd2b00st

very interesting, thanks for the info......gives me some more hope atleast. right now the car is apart cause i was going single turbo.....guess what i'm gonna have to do is put it all back together and then fire it up and see what it does and get some compression numbers before i jump to conclusions.... any idea how many miles that guy put on his car? i'm assuming breakin miles as well if it was a rebuilt motor and he already had it on a dyno?

Syonyk

I'm pretty sure the early rotary engines (pre-1980 or so?) didn't even have any sort of oil injection system.

-=Russ=-

mark57

I'd say at least 1200 mi. and the engine has taken some spirited driving and and a lot of full-out power pulls on the street. I was riding shotty while setting the boost and doing other tweeks. The car is very, very quick [GT35/40]. Then, we discovered this business of Atkins Rotary oil reservoir not being hooked up to the OMP - the engine had been getting no oil all this time. Nonetheless, the car remains very, very quick with no adverse effects.

Some one like Judge Ito, Steve Kan, or Chris Ott could give you better insight on this matter than I. But, yeah, a compression check is probably what is needed. I take it you observed no ill effects on the engine?

adictd2b00st

yea i hadn't noticed a loss of power and the car never had a problem with warm starts or smoked out the exhaust, thats why i went ahead and bought the new turbo etc i figured the motor was really strong.

is there anything else besides a compression test that i can do to check it while leaving the motor in the car? we're in the process of rewiring the haltec cause its kind of a mess from the last owner, so i won't be able to run the car / compression test it till thats done

mark57

Outside of disassembling the engine and doing micrometer tolerance checks, I don't know of anything else that can be done. I say, if it had been such a bad thing, you'd have known it. I think the engine is OK - there were no ominous signs of damage or even impending damage. Set that distraction aside and proceed forward with construction.

When you do a complete turbo conversion with elimination of all the sequential and emissions junk, subsequent engine changes become a breeze due to the simplicity of the whole deal in the engine bay. Maintenance and service are extremely EZ esp. if you paint and clear the bay and maintain a clean environment in there.

adictd2b00st

thanks much for the responses mark, feelin a lil better about this now, i'll post up an update once she's running again

Syonyk

If you really want to inspect things, pull the exhaust manifold off and look at the seals through the exhaust port (probably with a mirror & flashlight).

-=Russ=-

adictd2b00st

what exactly would i be looking for? what does "normal" wear look like?

neit_jnf

iTrader: (17)

Ceramic seals have naturally less friction than stock, gas acts as a lubricant too. The extra friction would create extra heat but if you didn't run it that much I wouldn't worry too much. Just do a compression check

HAILERS

Slim to none damage. Not worth thinking about. Remember the first Mazda rotarys? They wore out at an accelerated rate compared to piston engines, but it was in the tens of thousands of miles. Oil injection was one of the remedys for the wear.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

these engines had mechanical omp's plumbed into the carbs, except for gsl-se's which had the lines connected directly to the rotor housings for direct injection.

kenn_chan

According to what I read a couple of posts back the OMP goes into fault cycle and goes at 50% of its max as a safety precaution. normally ist would vary from almost nothing to 100% depending upon load, with no signal it is designed to put out 50 percent at all times.

please double check with some of the guys who tune (not the owners)(the tunres) they can give you the straight scoop. Remeber this is waht I read in a post, so double check with some f the tuners.

Ken

adictd2b00st

thanks for all the responses guys i'm going ahead with the single turbo project as planned, and added 2 aftermarket oil coolers for good measure to help out with reliability in the long run......short of pulling the motor we haven't been able to find anything that would hint at any major internal damage, so here's hoping she's ok