befarrer

iTrader: (1)

I had custom oil cooler hoses made up form my swap, and it looks like the hose from the front cover to the oil cooler is starting to push the hose away from the fitting. I think I told the place that did my hoses that 150PSI would be max pressure, but I just looked online, and realized the oil pressure regulator is after the oil cooler, meaning the oil cooler is at much higher pressure than my gauge is reading. I think I am going to get them re-done, and if I do, what is the max pressure that these hoses will see? Think 400PSI would be plenty?

Also, does it make much difference if the oil cooler is mounted high? Right now I have it mounted about level with the oil filter, wondering if it would drain back, or if I should see about lowering it as much as possible.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

400 PSI is more than enough, but this situation begs the question: What would cause your existing hoses to behave as they are? Details on them? If they were made by a hydraulic shop, it makes me wonder if the fittings weren't crimped properly. Most hoses have two pressure ratings: Max Working Pressure and Burst Pressure, which are usually in a 1:4 ratio. For example, the hoses I'm using (Jegs Push-Loc 10AN) are rated for 250 psi working pressure, but would burst at 1000 psi.

As for the oil pressure regulator, it works sort of like a T in the oil circuit, with the valve on the extra leg. Pressure at the pump may be marginally higher, but it's always kept in check by the pressure regulator. If it were me, I'd take the regulator's pressure rating, add 50 and assume that's the actual pressure at the pump. Then, just to be on the safe side, add another 50psi for a safety buffer and let that number be the one you shop for hoses with. This approach is overkill, but it means the hose is underworked and will stay reliable for years to come.

befarrer

iTrader: (1)

I had a hose shop make my hoses, but they used these non-crimp swivel fittings, which I thought was odd, and the hose is a blue rubber aeroquip hose:



The good news, is they soldered -AN fittings onto the metal hard lines, so I am going to get some -AN fittings, and nice braided hose, and make my own hoses.

I just noticed I can see a gap between the hose and base of the barbed part, making it look like the hose has pushed out about 1/16", would not have been good if it popped off.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

There are two oil pressure regulators. One in the front cover, that keeps the max pressure of hot oil leaving the motor and going into the oil cooler at 150psi. Another regulator in the rear iron that puts a max on the cooled oil pressure going into the block...this one is set to 71 to about 125psi depending on motor. Your gauge is most likely hooked up to the rear iron.

befarrer

iTrader: (1)

I got my gauge hooked up to the stock oil pressure location. I got some Russel -8 AN fittings and braided hose, should look alot better. Also going to do an oil change.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

why did you get -8?

befarrer

iTrader: (1)

That is the size that was already on my oil cooler hard lines. When I took them to get the hose part replaced, they soldered on AN male ends to the hard lines on the motor, and the banjo fittings at the oil cooler. Its the same size as the hard lines. I have a non turbo if it makes a difference on size.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

-10 is the typical size used.

Sounds like your hydraulic shop is a place to avoid.

I'm not a fan of push-lock type hoses in applications which see both pressure and heat. Pressure yes. Heat, no. Causes the hose to soften and in many cases I've seen it blow off.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

what Aaron said is the reason i asked. i guess i posed it as a question simply because i didn't want to assume -8 was wrong since i'd never done it or seen it done.