Oil Cooler Hose Pressure
I had custom oil cooler hoses made up form my swap, and it looks like the hose from the front cover to the oil cooler is starting to push the hose away from the fitting. I think I told the place that did my hoses that 150PSI would be max pressure, but I just looked online, and realized the oil pressure regulator is after the oil cooler, meaning the oil cooler is at much higher pressure than my gauge is reading. I think I am going to get them re-done, and if I do, what is the max pressure that these hoses will see? Think 400PSI would be plenty?
Also, does it make much difference if the oil cooler is mounted high? Right now I have it mounted about level with the oil filter, wondering if it would drain back, or if I should see about lowering it as much as possible. |
Originally Posted by befarrer
(Post 11769801)
I had custom oil cooler hoses made up form my swap, and it looks like the hose from the front cover to the oil cooler is starting to push the hose away from the fitting. I think I told the place that did my hoses that 150PSI would be max pressure, but I just looked online, and realized the oil pressure regulator is after the oil cooler, meaning the oil cooler is at much higher pressure than my gauge is reading. I think I am going to get them re-done, and if I do, what is the max pressure that these hoses will see? Think 400PSI would be plenty?
Also, does it make much difference if the oil cooler is mounted high? Right now I have it mounted about level with the oil filter, wondering if it would drain back, or if I should see about lowering it as much as possible. As for the oil pressure regulator, it works sort of like a T in the oil circuit, with the valve on the extra leg. Pressure at the pump may be marginally higher, but it's always kept in check by the pressure regulator. If it were me, I'd take the regulator's pressure rating, add 50 and assume that's the actual pressure at the pump. Then, just to be on the safe side, add another 50psi for a safety buffer and let that number be the one you shop for hoses with. This approach is overkill, but it means the hose is underworked and will stay reliable for years to come. |
I had a hose shop make my hoses, but they used these non-crimp swivel fittings, which I thought was odd, and the hose is a blue rubber aeroquip hose:
http://images.drillspot.com/pimages/...667897_300.jpg The good news, is they soldered -AN fittings onto the metal hard lines, so I am going to get some -AN fittings, and nice braided hose, and make my own hoses. I just noticed I can see a gap between the hose and base of the barbed part, making it look like the hose has pushed out about 1/16", would not have been good if it popped off. |
There are two oil pressure regulators. One in the front cover, that keeps the max pressure of hot oil leaving the motor and going into the oil cooler at 150psi. Another regulator in the rear iron that puts a max on the cooled oil pressure going into the block...this one is set to 71 to about 125psi depending on motor. Your gauge is most likely hooked up to the rear iron.
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I got my gauge hooked up to the stock oil pressure location. I got some Russel -8 AN fittings and braided hose, should look alot better. Also going to do an oil change.
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Originally Posted by befarrer
(Post 11770404)
I got some Russel -8 AN fittings and braided hose ...
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Originally Posted by diabolical1
(Post 11770704)
why did you get -8?
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-10 is the typical size used.
Sounds like your hydraulic shop is a place to avoid. I'm not a fan of push-lock type hoses in applications which see both pressure and heat. Pressure yes. Heat, no. Causes the hose to soften and in many cases I've seen it blow off. |
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
(Post 11771132)
-10 is the typical size used.
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