nooob help
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: arizona
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
nooob help
Okay here's the deal I jst got a 87 rx7 with 180k miles that been parked for about a yr the guy told me it started to smoke and he jst parked it. My problem is now I'm trying to get it started I'm getting spark but no gas the fuel pump when out I'm using starter fuild jst to get it started but its not happening I'm getting compression .......any ideas?? Oh yea its a 13b na
#2
HeyHeyHey..Its the Goose
iTrader: (3)
Get a new fuel pump... Stop with the ether.
Ether (starting fluid) blows up... gasoline burns. Take a lighter and hold it infront of the can of ether and give it a squirt... That giant flame ball you shoot out thats what your putting in your engine. So stop it; your apex seals will thank you later. lol
Your injectors are positioned by Mazda R&D to start the car and deliver fuel properly when the fuel pump is working. Hence new fuel pump = running car.
Ether (starting fluid) blows up... gasoline burns. Take a lighter and hold it infront of the can of ether and give it a squirt... That giant flame ball you shoot out thats what your putting in your engine. So stop it; your apex seals will thank you later. lol
Your injectors are positioned by Mazda R&D to start the car and deliver fuel properly when the fuel pump is working. Hence new fuel pump = running car.
#6
Retired Moderator, RIP
iTrader: (142)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 0
Received 131 Likes
on
114 Posts
anyone gonna tell this guy to change his fuel filter?..fresh gas?..clean the fuel pump sock?
By the way,you are getting gas to the Pump.It sits in gas..it just isn't getting to the engine.!!
By the way,you are getting gas to the Pump.It sits in gas..it just isn't getting to the engine.!!
Trending Topics
#15
Compression test it and stop spending money on extra things. at 180k, sitting around for a year or more, and tons of smoke whenever you start it, a compression test is the first thing i would do just to get it out of the way.
#16
GET OFF MY LAWN
iTrader: (1)
The first thing I would suspect is oil control ring seals. If nothing else clears the smoke that is what it is and it means the engine needs to be split apart. At 180K miles compression could still be high enough to make it run but a split O ring in an oil control ring spells doom. If you do split the engine expect 50% of the parts to be junk.
If you do decide to try a rebuild get a couple engines to tear apart first. Pick through the parts you have and find the best stuff, measure, measure, measure. Then yank the engine out of the car. If done on a budget you can throw one together for well under a grand.
If you do decide to try a rebuild get a couple engines to tear apart first. Pick through the parts you have and find the best stuff, measure, measure, measure. Then yank the engine out of the car. If done on a budget you can throw one together for well under a grand.
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: arizona
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: arizona
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i wanted to compression test my motor but i read somewhere that u need one jst for rotarys that its different from others
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: arizona
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The first thing I would suspect is oil control ring seals. If nothing else clears the smoke that is what it is and it means the engine needs to be split apart. At 180K miles compression could still be high enough to make it run but a split O ring in an oil control ring spells doom. If you do split the engine expect 50% of the parts to be junk.
If you do decide to try a rebuild get a couple engines to tear apart first. Pick through the parts you have and find the best stuff, measure, measure, measure. Then yank the engine out of the car. If done on a budget you can throw one together for well under a grand.
If you do decide to try a rebuild get a couple engines to tear apart first. Pick through the parts you have and find the best stuff, measure, measure, measure. Then yank the engine out of the car. If done on a budget you can throw one together for well under a grand.
hmm well i wanna rebuild my motor if its bad but im having trouble finding parts or a rebuild kit ....... i was also thinking about buying a swap from a website but i dnt know any
#20
I kind of jumped the gun saying compression test, it for sure is a good test to do, but may not diagnose your exact engine problems. Pressure testing the cooling system and testing it for exhaust gasses would be good things to test first.
#23
Senior Member
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Modesto, Ca
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Coolant leaking into exhaust would also warrant a rebuild, so its not entirely THAT far of a jump to assume rebuild.
To OP- Atkins rotary, pineapple racing, rotary aviation all have, or should have, rebuild kits for purchase. If you crack the engine open, at the very least you will need a full soft seal kit. AT 180k it would be wise to replace apex seals as well. If you are on a budget, it might be cheaper to buy a running n/a engine off someone thays doing a swap or something.
To OP- Atkins rotary, pineapple racing, rotary aviation all have, or should have, rebuild kits for purchase. If you crack the engine open, at the very least you will need a full soft seal kit. AT 180k it would be wise to replace apex seals as well. If you are on a budget, it might be cheaper to buy a running n/a engine off someone thays doing a swap or something.
#24
GET OFF MY LAWN
iTrader: (1)
In an older engine the O rings can get hard and lose their sealing capacity, particularly if the engine has been sitting or if it has been run hot.