Nikki ro Weber Conversion
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Nikki ro Weber Conversion
How? What are the steps to converting from Nikki for a 1985 GSL 5 speed?
Last edited by DiamJim; 02-27-20 at 02:07 PM. Reason: Change title from ro to "to"
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Step one is to buy the carb and intake manifold and the gaskets and stuff.
Step two is to remove the old carb and intake and replace it with the new
Step three is to start tuning the Weber, a jet chart you find hopefully will get you close, but every car is setup a little differently, and they live in different altitudes and things
Step two is to remove the old carb and intake and replace it with the new
Step three is to start tuning the Weber, a jet chart you find hopefully will get you close, but every car is setup a little differently, and they live in different altitudes and things
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Step one is to buy the carb and intake manifold and the gaskets and stuff.
Step two is to remove the old carb and intake and replace it with the new
Step three is to start tuning the Weber, a jet chart you find hopefully will get you close, but every car is setup a little differently, and they live in different altitudes and things
Step two is to remove the old carb and intake and replace it with the new
Step three is to start tuning the Weber, a jet chart you find hopefully will get you close, but every car is setup a little differently, and they live in different altitudes and things
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Tom93R1, Thank you. I have the new Weber 48 DCOE and intake to mount. I'm gone start the install by examining the Weber Carb and intake before mounting. I'm looking for two rubber O-rings on the block's ports that was found rotten after removing the old intake. Will these O-Rings have to be replace if not in the new intake.
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Help! After examining the 48 DCOE, I found no choke. How will I ever get my car to start with no CHoke? There is no clip to hook the ball end of the throttle cable to the carburetor throttle lever. What do you call these things?
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My REPU with Weber 48 DCO has no choke and it would be a real pain in the *** if I were to drive it very regularly. I can always get it to start, it's a cycle of turn key on, pump gas about 10 times, crank a few seconds, pump about 10 more times and crank. It will usually run a few seconds and die, but one more round of 10 pumps and crank it will start for good. Because there is no choke it's now running really lean and doesn't really want to get driving, but you can get it going if you're careful. It doesn't really run that great until just before it's fully warmed up, then it runs really good.
This is how it goes and I live in Phoenix. When I lived in Colorado and it was cold I would wrap a plastic grocery bag around the air filter to choke it, that would usually get it to start without much problem.
This is all fine for something I drive to the car show or an occasional weekend cruise, but if I had to rely on it to get to work that would suck.
This is how it goes and I live in Phoenix. When I lived in Colorado and it was cold I would wrap a plastic grocery bag around the air filter to choke it, that would usually get it to start without much problem.
This is all fine for something I drive to the car show or an occasional weekend cruise, but if I had to rely on it to get to work that would suck.
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Tom93R1, Thank you. I have the new Weber 48 DCOE and intake to mount. I'm gone start the install by examining the Weber Carb and intake before mounting. I'm looking for two rubber O-rings on the block's ports that was found rotten after removing the old intake. Will these O-Rings have to be replace if not in the new intake.
#11
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i would've said no and leave that ugly nikki...just better for a unported engine...good luck
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