Pampitech

My GLS Starts just fine and drives great as well but as soon as i let go of the gas to stop at a light and press it again the car shuts off. I have to turn it back on and slam the gas all the way down for it to go. Also the car feels like i press the gas it stalls like its trying to get gas. SOMEONE please help me!!!!! Also Im looking to buy a Running 12a or 13B engine that will be a good swap for my 82 gls MT

Pampitech

Please help me Figure out what to do.... Just got back from Deployment in Afghanistan and really need the car

alfajeffrey

iTrader: (7)

i have the same car, and have been dealing with similar issues. I was able to keep her on the road by setting the choke way out and even having to bend the choke cable brack until it would idle with enough power to keep it going.

I had done a fair amount of work on the car to improve its operation, but the most substantial repairs I made were fairly simple to correct this issue. To reduce y our costs I would recommend the following.

Test your accelerator pump by functioning its lever, and confirm it squirts fuel into the carb.

Then pull the carburetor and as you proceed inspect hoses to ensure they fit snugly, and are not worn out. Once you have the carb and baseplate removed, clean everything up very well ( old gasket remnants). Use carb cleaner with the small red straw, and bend it to a 45 degree angle. Spray out all vac ports and the small holes on the inside of the barrels. This is done by holding the valves open and using the bent red straw, and each successful cleaning will result in the fluid shooting through the hole with a noticeably clear flow with no backpressure unless the a vac hose is still connected to the port.

Once you have this done trace and cut out new gaskets. You should have only two gaskets between the carb, baseplate, and the air intake. Mine had 2 additional gaskets that blocked the vac ports between the two, but that was causing problems for me.

The gaskets can be cut well with a pair of scissors, straight edge razor blade, and a hole punch. If you got the money just pickup an exacto knife, but I cut the bolt holes and vac ports out with the hole punch. I used the standard hole punch and made sure to offset the holes to prevent a leak, but I know they make small hole punches that are about the same size as the vac ports.

Then reinstall the carb, inspect all vac hoses as you reconnect, and replace bad hoses as you go. I also removed my shutter vavle and sealed up its vac and mounting bracket holes, for the seem to cause a lot of people vac leaks. I would also recommend replacing the vac line that manages the transmission if you have automatic, for it is hard to access with the carb installed.

Then remove and clean your spark plugs to ensure your system is fresh. I also cleaned under the distributer cap to ensure a good arc.

I started it up, and it was like night and day. I had to run it for about 5 miles with the choke set way out, but over the 5 miles it changes its idle control on its own. It seems to be able to work on its own now without the choke held so far out.

I am dealing with high revs at idle, but I believe it has to do with the mixture and idle settings. This whole overhaul wont cost you more than $25.00 for the gasket material and some hose, but It is a good way to confirm your carburetor is operating properly.


I am new to Mazdas, but I have a fair amount of mechanic experience. My carb also has no decel pot to prevent the throttle from snapping closed, which also caused it to stutter. I remedied that by removing the accelerator return spring, which in turn eliminated the decel stutter.

Let me know if you have any questions. I would like to confirm this worked for you, and provide any more insight. You may want to also confirm your fuel pump and filter are in good condition. To replace them and connecting fuel lines cost me about $60, and is added security against breakdowns.

Regards,
Andrew