I was working on my car, me and my buddies, and we noticed that there was this leak from the main fuel rail and as I suspected this was from the Pulsation Damper. I took it of and the first thing I did was to take off the plastic cup off of it, there was loose little screw in there and it was obvious that it was leaking from the hole where that screw was supposed to go in to. I screwed it in and put some RTV over it, just to make sure it does not unscrew/leak again. My question is, how hard should it be screwed in? and, Is there anything else that I should know before driving around like this?



P.S. I will definitely check for the leak and if so I will not drive the car, all your info would be appreciated. If you don’t know/remember what it looks like here is a link to mazdatrix.com . http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-pulsation.htm

P.S.S. I would also like to know what that little screw does for the pulsation damper.

sorry about the double post, but i figured that maybe someone in tech support might know an answer for this question better and I'm in need of an answer bad.


Car is a 1987 TII S4, built on 03/86, is just now having a RB exhaust put on with FCD, ported waste gate, < dont think that makes a difference but there is my car for ref.

 

The screw is a pretensioner that adjusts the ammount of dampening the damper does (adjusts the ammount of "backpressure" if you will). If it's leaking, that's not due to the missing screw, but is due to the ruptured diaphragm inside the pulsation damper. REPLACE IT ASAP or be prepared for a helluva fire (it WILL happen).

My reccomendation is to replace the PD with a banjo bolt and barb (usually one from a spare rail) and use that instead. That way, it never leaks. I've done this to every car I've owned with no noticable effects.

 

Is there a preformance loss?

 

Not at all that I've noticed; I've no dyno info to prove it, although my butt dyno tells me there is no difference.

The only negative I've heard of is that it supposedly makes the fuel pump and or injectors' life harder. I vouch to disprove this, due to the FPR having a damping effect (at idle anyways). I've been running without a PD for 3 years now, and I have not noticed any degredation of the fuel-related components.

Also, I forgot to mention in my previous post, that as fuel pressures rise, the PD's diaphragm moves outward and pushes the screw out with it.

 

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/pd.html
Will this work/fit? Will I have to do any modifications to the fuel rails or anything? or is it a bolt on?

P.S. Thanks for all your help

 

It's (quite litterally) a bolt-on mod. Just a superiorly machined/anodized version of what I was suggesting For some reason, I completely forgot that Summit offered these (doh!).

 

the ones that summit offers, do they fit right on, as in bolt on?

 

bump

 

awsome, i need to upgrad to this too, better this and not a fire later!

thanks for the find

 

I just emailed fc3 web site and the guy said that all you need is the bonjo bolt and a couple of washers from mazda dealership, sweet, thx alot

 

do i need to remove the whole manifold???

i have tried and not sure wat to do to take off this damn pulsation damper, please reply ASAP.

THANX

 

hey guys, i tried going to autozone, pep boys, kragen, and king bolt. i did not find 12mm x 1.25 banjo bolt. i tried at the dealer but they need to know where it goes they said they dont carry banjo bolts .

they have 12 x 1.0 and 12 x 1.5

where can i get the right size? and also how the hell does the pulsation damper come off??? i cannot take it off. any picture step by step that someone has written somewhere?

thanx in advance

 

ok, i took off the PD after i took off the whole manifold with a friend.

i was wondering can i just use a regular bolt? i found a regular 12 x 1.25 bolt at an autoparts store but it is not a banjo bolt. can this be used instead? or does it have to be a BANJO bolt?

because a banjo bolt has a hole thought it for fluid to go through it, in this case fuel.

 

You must have a banjo bolt other wise there will be no pressure. I have been tempted to just drill a hole in the middle of a bolt that fits and then drill another small one that goes accoss through it, but I think I'll just stay with the one from fc3 website or wait no its accually summit racing and here are the links, (it ridiculas that for a freaking bolt you have to pay 8.95 hadling fee) http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/pd.html <--------- thats the link to the place that will have a link to summit racing which is http://www.summitracing.com/ and then input this part number EAR-997591 and here is more info from another thread https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...threadid=60160

 

just ordered mine

 

thanx for the info, but i went the cheaper way, found a banjo bolt from an extra fuel rail so i will be using that instead, hehe. i am tired of looking everywhere for that damn bolt, and i didint want to pay summit like $20 just for a bolt, hehe.

good stuff thogh, thanx for all the help

 

hey blacksunshine, i have couple questions - since you seem to be the expert. i have a 3rd gen rx-7 and it seems to have all the same signs that i have been reading on pulsation damper leaks. when i drive around - i smell gas, when i check my engine, its moist on the top. i havent driven it in a while until i fix this problem (and replace my turbos). but i guess my question is - is that whats wrong? also, i might be replacing my turbos (with the stock twin setup) where can i get all the gaskets im gonna need (cheap)? hey thanks guys