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Hey, just wondering if anyone can help me decipher everything under the hood of the car, I want to fully restore the car back to its prior glory before being imported to the states. Don't mind/care for how long it takes. This is my first rotary and my brain melts everytime I try and figure parts out.
seriously? there are not a lot of stock parts in there....
its got hood pins, the bolts that hold the fenders on are incorrect, aftermarket headlights. aftermarket strut bar, aftermarket shocks (probably coil overs)
the engine has an HKS twin power, catch can, some kind of boost controller, Greddy pulley kit, aftermarket AST, the intercooler kit (greddy?). its got a big single turbo (its clocked so you can't see a tab, but T78?), battery has been moved. i see what looks like the HKS map sensor unplugged, and the extra injectors and twin power are unplugged too, so why?
the thermostat neck is the newer one, but the rest of the intakes/stuff on the engine looks stock for a 92 car
all of the brackets under the hood have been painted blue, etc....
seriously? there are not a lot of stock parts in there....
its got hood pins, the bolts that hold the fenders on are incorrect, aftermarket headlights. aftermarket strut bar, aftermarket shocks (probably coil overs)
the engine has an HKS twin power, catch can, some kind of boost controller, Greddy pulley kit, aftermarket AST, the intercooler kit (greddy?). its got a big single turbo (its clocked so you can't see a tab, but T78?), battery has been moved. i see what looks like the HKS map sensor unplugged, and the extra injectors and twin power are unplugged too, so why?
the thermostat neck is the newer one, but the rest of the intakes/stuff on the engine looks stock for a 92 car
all of the brackets under the hood have been painted blue, etc....
Got the car from an import dealer, half the parts on the car are not plugged in, car pulls well and it's got no issues, but a lot of extras on it. I'm guessing it ran meth? For the extra injectors, but I'm not really sure. (It was a prior drift car). Like said prior, it's a first fd for me and I'm still learning. I know a bunch of stock parts are there but I just find it unusual with all the random stuff just in the bay that isn't being put to use.
As for those injectors in the intake elbow, you can see a fuel pressure regulator hooked up with blue vacuum hose near the distribution block. Tells me that those extra injectors are probably just for more fuel. I heard somewhere that additional injectors pre-intake were an old-school way of adding fuel without increasing the size of your stock injectors. So it appears they made their own secondary fuel-loop to feed those two. I see this isn't the freshest thread, so you may have figured out what they do already, but that'd be my guess for what its worth.
Lots of custom work on in that bay, I don't think I immediately see anything needing to be removed immediately for safety or the car's health (I mean, I would remove that secondary fuel loop if that is in fact what it is), just a lot that you could probably simplify or make more tidy.
As for those injectors in the intake elbow, you can see a fuel pressure regulator hooked up with blue vacuum hose near the distribution block. Tells me that those extra injectors are probably just for more fuel. I heard somewhere that additional injectors pre-intake were an old-school way of adding fuel without increasing the size of your stock injectors. So it appears they made their own secondary fuel-loop to feed those two. I see this isn't the freshest thread, so you may have figured out what they do already, but that'd be my guess for what its worth.
Lots of custom work on in that bay, I don't think I immediately see anything needing to be removed immediately for safety or the car's health (I mean, I would remove that secondary fuel loop if that is in fact what it is), just a lot that you could probably simplify or make more tidy.
I appreciate the feedback! 😁 I'm probably going to try and simplify everything once I figure out which turbo I wanna go with,, upgrade the injectors,, lines,, etc.... a bit more money and in 2 or 3 months ish she should be good to go!
The turbo kit, ecu, and just about everything else involving power seem to be fairly old.
If you're trying to go back to full stock, you have one monumental task ahead of you considering you're new to the car. Is there anyone you know that has an engine/tranny combo sitting around with all the stock bits on it? Similar to the ones that end up getting shipped stateside?
Why are you wanting to change it before it's imported?
If you're trying to go back to full stock, you have one monumental task ahead of you considering you're new to the car. Is there anyone you know that has an engine/tranny combo sitting around with all the stock bits on it? Similar to the ones that end up getting shipped stateside?
Why are you wanting to change it before it's imported?
I already have the car, got it 3 months ago, I just want a "modernized" turbo with a better ecu. Better spooling turbo, better ecu, better fuel system, intercooler should be all good, might just make custom piping for the intercooler and see if I could make that work. New throttle body, etc...
Just basically keep single and just redo the whole car aside from the engine.
I already have the car, got it 3 months ago, I just want a "modernized" turbo with a better ecu. Better spooling turbo, better ecu, better fuel system, intercooler should be all good, might just make custom piping for the intercooler and see if I could make that work. New throttle body, etc...
Just basically keep single and just redo the whole car aside from the engine.
Oh that's way easier then. I'll make some suggestions, but know it's coming from a biased source lol.
For the turbo, I'd suggest either the EFR7670 or 8374 from BW, depending on what you're trying to do with the car. If it's going to be used for autox or roads with tight curves, 7670. Anything else, 8374. Internal or external wastegate depends on your preference, but internal is a much easier install and might save some money not having to buy wastegates. I haven't run the numbers on that recently though.
There are plenty of good options for ECUs these days. Haltech Elite and AEM Infinity are probably the best options for something that has a lot of safety features but aren't crazy expensive and have a lot of support. You could also look at Link, Fueltech, and some others I can't remember at the moment. I have a Syvecs and it's a phenomenal ECU, but there isn't near enough support for it.
The fuel system really comes down to how much you're trying to do with the car. If you're revamping it, you might as well get some quality parts instead of skimping, but you don't have to go crazy if you're not pushing a lot of HP. CJ Motorsports, B2A, Radium all have good fuel hangers, possibly some other companies too but those are just off the top of my head. CJM and Radium also have fuel rails, along with Full Function and some others. Just figure out what you want...how many injectors, do you want a fuel pressure sensor and/or damper in the rail, where do you want the regulator, etc.
I'd stay with the stock TB unless you're trying to do DBW or you're going crazy HP.
I agree on the IC. You're already VMIC, which I swear by. Maybe think about adding water/meth injection too.
Oh that's way easier then. I'll make some suggestions, but know it's coming from a biased source lol.
For the turbo, I'd suggest either the EFR7670 or 8374 from BW, depending on what you're trying to do with the car. If it's going to be used for autox or roads with tight curves, 7670. Anything else, 8374. Internal or external wastegate depends on your preference, but internal is a much easier install and might save some money not having to buy wastegates. I haven't run the numbers on that recently though.
There are plenty of good options for ECUs these days. Haltech Elite and AEM Infinity are probably the best options for something that has a lot of safety features but aren't crazy expensive and have a lot of support. You could also look at Link, Fueltech, and some others I can't remember at the moment. I have a Syvecs and it's a phenomenal ECU, but there isn't near enough support for it.
The fuel system really comes down to how much you're trying to do with the car. If you're revamping it, you might as well get some quality parts instead of skimping, but you don't have to go crazy if you're not pushing a lot of HP. CJ Motorsports, B2A, Radium all have good fuel hangers, possibly some other companies too but those are just off the top of my head. CJM and Radium also have fuel rails, along with Full Function and some others. Just figure out what you want...how many injectors, do you want a fuel pressure sensor and/or damper in the rail, where do you want the regulator, etc.
I'd stay with the stock TB unless you're trying to do DBW or you're going crazy HP.
I agree on the IC. You're already VMIC, which I swear by. Maybe think about adding water/meth injection too.
Definitely look into those! I'm going for qblut 400-500 two, no more, wanna track and daily the car, of the engine blows on the process I don't mind rebuilding it. Compression is good still though, I probably will take it apart and redo the wear and tear items, as daunting as the task is. I'm eager to learn. Qnd the EFR7670 sounds like the perfect turbo, I dont mind biased. If people are biased to one product that means they stand by it because of how good said item is. As for fuel, I don't mind spending the necessary amount. I will also probably replace main harness and front harnesses for headlights, etc, they'd got chewed up drifting around. The zip ties fell and tires ended up eating them. I'll probably keep my ewg set up, as it is running an ewg already. Might need some springs. The wastegate itself looks fairly new, bolts don't even have surface rust. As for the throttle body. I'll probably go with the regular throttle body and keep the extra 2 off. As for meth, depending on if I find a way to store gallons of it at home as it is a 50 minute drive each time.
For ecu, I might go haltech 1500-2500, I dont see me needing anymore past that. And the reason I wanna replace the main harness is due to all the cut wires and extra wires reading off the pfc currently. There is a ton of "custom" work (wires just spliced into one another, etc...)
It will be a project and I'll probably need 2 weeks off work, but once I get the money settled in hopefully in 2 or 3 months time, I'll be going all in.
Definitely look into those! I'm going for qblut 400-500 two, no more, wanna track and daily the car, of the engine blows on the process I don't mind rebuilding it. Compression is good still though, I probably will take it apart and redo the wear and tear items, as daunting as the task is. I'm eager to learn. Qnd the EFR7670 sounds like the perfect turbo, I dont mind biased. If people are biased to one product that means they stand by it because of how good said item is. As for fuel, I don't mind spending the necessary amount. I will also probably replace main harness and front harnesses for headlights, etc, they'd got chewed up drifting around. The zip ties fell and tires ended up eating them. I'll probably keep my ewg set up, as it is running an ewg already. Might need some springs. The wastegate itself looks fairly new, bolts don't even have surface rust. As for the throttle body. I'll probably go with the regular throttle body and keep the extra 2 off. As for meth, depending on if I find a way to store gallons of it at home as it is a 50 minute drive each time.
For ecu, I might go haltech 1500-2500, I dont see me needing anymore past that. And the reason I wanna replace the main harness is due to all the cut wires and extra wires reading off the pfc currently. There is a ton of "custom" work (wires just spliced into one another, etc...)
It will be a project and I'll probably need 2 weeks off work, but once I get the money settled in hopefully in 2 or 3 months time, I'll be going all in.
I doubt the 7670 would get you to 500 unless you were ported, boost in the mid to high 20s and running race gas or ethanol, but it could get you to 400. Mine made 430 at 24psi(?) on E85 and a stock port engine, but there was also a hole in the IC end tank so who knows how much more it could have made. The 7670 is a monster down low, but it only pulls to about 7-7500RPM. The 8374 is better suited overall to our engines. It still spools within a few hundred RPM of the 7670 and pulls to about 8-8500, and I made 430 at 18psi on pump gas and a very conservative tune. Although I do miss the even faster response of the 7670 at times haha, even though there's too much to use that low in the power band. Either way, out of the few turbos I've used, these two are my very favorite and either one would be a win. That's assuming you're looking for a turbo that spools quick. I can't even count how many people I've sold on these turbos, BW should hire me lol.
The engine harness you can still get new for about $1k if I remember right, although you might be able to find a good used harness that's already been stripped down for single turbo. If you were going to go completely back to stock I'd say definitely get a new harness. I'm not sure about the front harness. I've tried to buy a couple different front harnesses in the past and even one that was for my year and trim level wasn't exactly the same as my original harness, so watch out for that. If you can get the front harness new, I'd do that regardless. Those both will cost a good bit, but you won't have to question whether they're good.
I doubt the 7670 would get you to 500 unless you were ported, boost in the mid to high 20s and running race gas or ethanol, but it could get you to 400. Mine made 430 at 24psi(?) on E85 and a stock port engine, but there was also a hole in the IC end tank so who knows how much more it could have made. The 7670 is a monster down low, but it only pulls to about 7-7500RPM. The 8374 is better suited overall to our engines. It still spools within a few hundred RPM of the 7670 and pulls to about 8-8500, and I made 430 at 18psi on pump gas and a very conservative tune. Although I do miss the even faster response of the 7670 at times haha, even though there's too much to use that low in the power band. Either way, out of the few turbos I've used, these two are my very favorite and either one would be a win. That's assuming you're looking for a turbo that spools quick. I can't even count how many people I've sold on these turbos, BW should hire me lol.
The engine harness you can still get new for about $1k if I remember right, although you might be able to find a good used harness that's already been stripped down for single turbo. If you were going to go completely back to stock I'd say definitely get a new harness. I'm not sure about the front harness. I've tried to buy a couple different front harnesses in the past and even one that was for my year and trim level wasn't exactly the same as my original harness, so watch out for that. If you can get the front harness new, I'd do that regardless. Those both will cost a good bit, but you won't have to question whether they're good.
I'm currently street ported. At least from the paperwork provided the car supposedly is. When you went over to e85 how did you go about lubrication for the engine? I heard premix gums up ethanol and I've been reading about it, but still confused. People say its fine and people say premix ruins it. And personally I prefer low end power/top end as I wanna auto x is. And if 500 is a bit of a stretch with the turbo. That's also fine. I want to get used to the car first anyway and I'd rather not go overboard. And as for the harnesses. Definitely will be going new oem if I can find the front harness new oem, and if not. I'll see about fixing my harness and if it is possible or not.
Also appreciate all the info given, it's a good bit of information and it helped me decide about a few things 😁
I'm currently street ported. At least from the paperwork provided the car supposedly is. When you went over to e85 how did you go about lubrication for the engine? I heard premix gums up ethanol and I've been reading about it, but still confused. People say its fine and people say premix ruins it. And personally I prefer low end power/top end as I wanna auto x is. And if 500 is a bit of a stretch with the turbo. That's also fine. I want to get used to the car first anyway and I'd rather not go overboard. And as for the harnesses. Definitely will be going new oem if I can find the front harness new oem, and if not. I'll see about fixing my harness and if it is possible or not.
Also appreciate all the info given, it's a good bit of information and it helped me decide about a few things 😁
OK so here's the thing, I never fully swapped over to E85. I never used it again after the car was tuned on it, and I changed from the 7670 to the 8374 and haven't been tuned on E85 again since then either. I was nervous about using it until I saw the results of more people using it, and thinking what it might do to the engine. Also, after I installed everything for it (teflon lines, hard anodized or stainless steel everything, injectors with stainless internals, flex fuel sensor, etc), I learned that the flex fuel sensor doesn't sense water content in the ethanol, it actually reads it as a higher content of ethanol, and being that ethanol is hygroscopic, that can be a problem. I had read years ago that the ID F750 filter will filter out water, but I haven't looked into it for a long time so I could be wrong. If you don't let it sit in your tank for long before switching back to petrol, it shouldn't be a problem though. Regarding premix, there are some that are made for ethanol, and a few years ago I put some ethanol into a couple jars and put in some Redline premix in one jar and Klotz Techniplate in the other jar. I had heard that the Klotz would separate fairly quickly but it's been a few years now and they're both still blended, and they've just been sitting there on the shelf. I know, this test is super technical LOL, but I wanted to see for myself and I figured it was better than nothing. As for deposits in the engine or anything else, I have no idea. But I'm sure that info is on this forum somewhere.
If you want to autox, the 7670 is the right choice anyway. The response from the turbo would be a huge help, and you don't want a whole lot of power for that anyway. I need to turn mine down lower than 10psi because it's still around 360 or 380 (I don't remember which) and that's still too much but that's as low as I can get it with boost control. So the 7670 would be perfect for you anyway.
Another thing to consider is the size of the IC in relation to the turbo, regarding pressure loss. How thick is your IC? Looks like about 3.5-4". You'll probably be OK with it with either of these turbos, although the 7670 MIGHT be a bit small for it, but even if it is the difference is probably negligible. I just think way too much about things like this sometimes. I get it in my head that everything has to be perfect, disregarding the fact that I'm not that great/experienced of a driver and couldn't make use of a perfect system anyway lol.
One other thing to think about is getting an air pump delete pulley so you can relieve some of the pressure on the crank pulley and make sure your water pump pulley has enough belt on it to spin.
OK so here's the thing, I never fully swapped over to E85. I never used it again after the car was tuned on it, and I changed from the 7670 to the 8374 and haven't been tuned on E85 again since then either. I was nervous about using it until I saw the results of more people using it, and thinking what it might do to the engine. Also, after I installed everything for it (teflon lines, hard anodized or stainless steel everything, injectors with stainless internals, flex fuel sensor, etc), I learned that the flex fuel sensor doesn't sense water content in the ethanol, it actually reads it as a higher content of ethanol, and being that ethanol is hygroscopic, that can be a problem. I had read years ago that the ID F750 filter will filter out water, but I haven't looked into it for a long time so I could be wrong. If you don't let it sit in your tank for long before switching back to petrol, it shouldn't be a problem though. Regarding premix, there are some that are made for ethanol, and a few years ago I put some ethanol into a couple jars and put in some Redline premix in one jar and Klotz Techniplate in the other jar. I had heard that the Klotz would separate fairly quickly but it's been a few years now and they're both still blended, and they've just been sitting there on the shelf. I know, this test is super technical LOL, but I wanted to see for myself and I figured it was better than nothing. As for deposits in the engine or anything else, I have no idea. But I'm sure that info is on this forum somewhere.
If you want to autox, the 7670 is the right choice anyway. The response from the turbo would be a huge help, and you don't want a whole lot of power for that anyway. I need to turn mine down lower than 10psi because it's still around 360 or 380 (I don't remember which) and that's still too much but that's as low as I can get it with boost control. So the 7670 would be perfect for you anyway.
Another thing to consider is the size of the IC in relation to the turbo, regarding pressure loss. How thick is your IC? Looks like about 3.5-4". You'll probably be OK with it with either of these turbos, although the 7670 MIGHT be a bit small for it, but even if it is the difference is probably negligible. I just think way too much about things like this sometimes. I get it in my head that everything has to be perfect, disregarding the fact that I'm not that great/experienced of a driver and couldn't make use of a perfect system anyway lol.
One other thing to think about is getting an air pump delete pulley so you can relieve some of the pressure on the crank pulley and make sure your water pump pulley has enough belt on it to spin.
Love the information and it helped me understand the car a good bit more. I might settle for pump gas and get a meth kit.. just run 2 different tunes. And for IC thickness, it is 4" I think. I'll probably stick with 7670 with a good fuel set up to help with getting the full potential out of it. And as for the test. If I was closer to ethanol, I'd probably have done the same thing lol.
Im getting excited thinkin about getting her to run properly and using the car full and having fun with it. I might have the engine checked and rebuilt by a shop just to be on the safer side and come out with a healthier/better set up than what I have now. The only thing I'm not looking forward to is getting to spend all the money hahaha. I'm frugal and stingy at times but it's about time for a quality build!
It would be easier to squeeze blood from a rock than to get 500 whp out of a EFR 7670 i.e. not gonna happen. It has a theoretical compressor limit of 64 lbs/hr, but is not likely to even hit the theoretical rotary hp output for that due to insufficient efficiency there. Porting it won’t help for more power; it will just get you there with less boost pressure because the compressor just can’t flow enough.
example here; EFR7670 with half bridge making 418 rhp @ 12.5 psi
I saw a post or video later where it was up to 430 whp at 13.5 - 14 psi maybe? Probably about all it had to give imo. Even then it’s running well below the compressor map efficiency range curves. However, due to the porting the boost pressure loading is so low that it still manages to function reasonably well down there. Saw where he took the 7670 setup off and sold it at the beginning of 2021. His plan was to replace it with the next size up EFR 8374, but I haven’t see anything more on it since.
If you want 500 whp then it will need to be capable or 68 lbs/hr or higher left of the compressor map theoretical rpm stall limit with a sufficiently sized turbine housing, an 8374 or similar …
.
It would be easier to squeeze blood from a rock than to get 500 whp out of a EFR 7670 i.e. not gonna happen. It has a theoretical compressor limit of 64 lbs/hr, but is not likely to even hit the theoretical rotary hp output for that due to insufficient efficiency there. Porting it won’t help for more power; it will just get you there with less boost pressure because the compressor just can’t flow enough.
example here; EFR7670 with half bridge making 418 rhp @ 12.5 psi
I saw a post or video later where it was up to 430 whp at 13.5 - 14 psi maybe? Probably about all it had to give imo. Even then it’s running well below the compressor map efficiency range curves. However, due to the porting the boost pressure loading is so low that it still manages to function reasonably well down there. Saw where he took the 7670 setup off and sold it at the beginning of 2021. His plan was to replace it with the next size up EFR 8374, but I haven’t see anything more on it since.
If you want 500 whp then it will need to be capable or 68 lbs/hr or higher left of the compressor map theoretical rpm stall limit with a sufficiently sized turbine housing, an 8374 or similar …
.
I dont really mind what the numbers are, so long as i make between 400-500 rwhp. I will look into the 8374 or something similar to see if something has a decent range towards the left of the graph. Ultimately, the set up is going to be for auto-x/Street driven.
And as always, I appreciate the help with the info, it helps understand the car a bit more!
The only thing I'm not looking forward to is getting to spend all the money hahaha. I'm frugal and stingy at times but it's about time for a quality build!
Be careful with that, it's a slippery slope and soon you won't care how much money you're spending because you're addicted to it. Ask me how I know lol.
Be careful with that, it's a slippery slope and soon you won't care how much money you're spending because you're addicted to it. Ask me how I know lol.
lol I know it full well, had an sti prior to this. Ended up throwing 15k down the drain because I got rear ended.
Ouch. Were you not able to get any of the parts back and sell them?
Sadly not. But the guy that bought her found my info and is giving me updates on restoration. Ended up sending him left over items to him. I wanna see her back on the road!
04-29-21, 07:49 PM
