Racemotive

Before everyone jumps up to say, "search is your friend!"...I know. But I don't know where to even look or what to type in. So if you would prefer, let me know what key words to search. My 85' gsl starts with carb then warms up, then died. Thing has 54;000 miles and has sat for over a year. I started it, drove it around, came to a stop, then it died. Wouldn't start till it was cold again. And then did the same thing. So, what things do I need to search to figure it out? Or feel free to leave input. I'll do my best to familiarize myself with this site very soon so as to avoid unnecessary posts.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

you say "it starts with Carb"..is that with Carb Cleaner..or is it actually a carbed engine.
(sorry man,I'm an FC guy)
If it is fuel injected you may want to do a fast search of "hot start" problems..(I know Fc's have a Thermosensor that give you a hot start problem if not connected)

Racemotive

Starter fluid actually, I was very tired when I had post. But that's when warm. It will start cold with choke after a bit of cranking with no starting fluid. If this were my blazer I would suspect it's running lean and it's due to a vacuum leak or intake leak. But very different vehicle...

MaroonLynx

Sounds a lot like bad compression to me. The number one sign of bad compression is that it won't start once warmed up. You can get a compression test kit online. I haven't looked, but that would probably be the best place to start.

MaroonLynx

IF, it is bad compression you'll likely be looking at rebuild. However, there is a way to use atf fluid to get compression back. The link to the post that explains it is here: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-tried-108486/

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Have you changed the fuel filter in that car lately?

And contrary to popular belief..ATF only puts a layer of oil between the seals and housing temporarily(until it burns off ..YEP..SMOKE!).That is how a Low compression engine or a flooded engine can gain some PSI in order to aid starting the car.Once the car runs it wears the ATF off and you are back to square one.
It does not miraculously fix an engine that already has low compression due to other litigating factors.

marclong

iTrader: (1)

Nope

Racemotive

So it runs great nown, but once it's in drive, it drops idle around 700 rpm. So in drive it idles around 600. But unless you very very very lightly press the peddle it dies. When in park or neutral you can press as fast as you like! Revs all the way to red. Even in drive, if you get past 1000 rpm you are good to go....I have no idea where to start. Upfront, I know nothing about carburetors or the cars they go on. Any ideas where to start?

lduley

iTrader: (1)

when your in drive? its an auto?

it sounds like the the entire fuel system needs to be cleaned, rebuilt, and replaced. clean the gas tank, blow out the fuel lines, replace the fuel filter, and rebuild the carb

Racemotive

Yes it's a gsl automatic. Wouldn't it see loss up higher? Seems like if it were a fuel issue I'd see loss up top. Idk. But it does have rust in the tank. Truth be told I can't afford a new one. The pump looks like an aftermarket one. Beyond fuel is there any other issues I could look at? I have replaceable filter on it now and I've replaced it twice...rust. but when I can I'll do what I can with that. Is there a cheap way to tackle that?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Funny I just got an 82 that does the same thing.
Stumbles a bit under a 1k Rpm then is fine.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

if you've already had to replace the filter twice, then just imagine whats in your carb. If the tank if that rusty, your best bet is to replace, or take it out and see if its salvageable

Racemotive

How would I find out if someone has a nikki on here? Or are there other carbs that would work? As for the tank I had an idea to replace it with a 15 gallon drum I have. Idk if it'll work but may be worth a shot.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

Its cheaper to rebuild the carb then replace it honestly

And if you go that route (i DON't advise it) you won't be able to make your fuel gauge work

Racemotive

Why would the gauge not work? Could I rig it to an aftermarket? As for the rebuild is there a kit you would recommend? Are there any additional things I should look at for the symptoms I described. With having to feather the throttle that is.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Do a compression test with the engine warm.

Racemotive

I'm certain it has great compression. It has 54000 on it, was owned by an old couple for 25 years. And runs great with exception to having to feather it to get going. After 1100 rpm it does great I can romp on it. But, I'll ask my buddy to do a test and see

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

A cold engine will hold compression better then a hot engine. Once it's started it might run fine. Then shut it off and it's hard to start. Another trick to to poor some oil down the carb when cold. It will help seal so compression can build. If you had a manual trans you can also pop the clutch. This helps because you can get the engine spinning much faster vs using the battery to turn the starter. Low miles in this case can be a bad thing because they usually aren't started as much.Having a rotary engine sit for an extended amount of time is not good.

Racemotive

It runs fine warm now. I had post it a bit higher. So now my issue is that it needs to be feathered to keep it going, but when it gets somewhere around1100 to 1400 rpm I can floor it. But if I try floor it from idle while it's in drive it bogs and dies.sometimes even while it's in park. Beyond replacing some of the fuel system components such as pump, filter and cleaning the tank, is there something else I should be looking at? The carb could probably be rebuilt....but I would like to avoid it.

Racemotive

Sorry I ment to say, I have to feather it to get going not to keep it going. Sorry. That made it sound like it would die at idle. Not the case, it will die if I try to push the pedal to quick

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like a fuel delivery issue or maybe the accelerator pump.

Racemotive

So I've seen people talk about that accelerator pump. Does anyone have a picture of it, what is it? How can I test that? And would that prevent me from being able to romp on it in the beginning but not have issues at 2000 to 7000 rpm?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Get the Factory Service Manual where. It will explain it. Foxed.ca