Wanting to run c.a.s on my 13b and 4 bosch coils without ecu any wiring ideas??

 

What ECU do you intend to use? That is the ultimate determining factor in wiring up aftermarket coils.

 

You cant run a mazda cas without a computer

 

one of my mates has a c.a.s on his n.a 13b bridge instead of a dizzy has 2x s5 rx7 coils and 2x ignitors seems to work fine no ecu either was wanting to try do it with 4x coils instead. 1 for each plug any wiring ideas????? thanks kyle

 

See Above. No ECU means no way to interpret the CAS's signals. No ECU means no way to fire the FC coils.

The only way for it to not require an ECU is to have a carburettor, a distributor and a coil/igniter setup akin to GSL-SE or older engines such as the CD Cosmo's 13B.

OTOH, if you wanted to do something like running four D585s on a FC with a stock ECU such as a N326/332/etc, I have a circuit designed just for that purpose

 

he definitely has no ecu just a s5 c.a.s 2x ignitors and 2x coils will take a photo and upload it next time i see him, running on a 13b bridge 51mm ida its quite a common setup in nz for 13bpp ect cant be too hard surely haha

 

2 coils = direct fire on leading sparks only .. taking trigger signals from the "G" two pin rotor

since you simply cannot do the same for the trailing side
( you can,, but it will cost you the engine when the engine wastesparks trailing plugs ... go on , try it, i dare you )


so for 4 coils you need to chop all the teeth from the "Ne" trigger,, leaving only one trigger tooth ,, positioned so that it passes the old Ne pickup 10-15 degrees behind the G trigger

THEN.. you need to add a third pickup to the CAS.. and place it EXACTLY 180 degrees from the original Ne pickup

you then need to be absolutely certain that the correct Ne pickup is wired to the correct trailing spark plug as it comes past compression

( alternatively you can add more G rotors vertically , replacing the Ne rotor and cutting off one vane tooth so that it does not watespark the opposite rotor trailing plug )


your timing WILL be locked ,, and you have very little advantage for all this trouble over a tradional DLIDFIS system upgrade

 

Just chop all but two opposing teeth off the multi toothed reluctor, mount it 180 degrees apart from the top reluctor so when your looking directly into the cas you can see all 4 teeth 90 degrees apart, the top reluctor is now rotor 1 and the botom reluctor is rotor 2.there is no split timing and timing is locked with this method and you'll need to wire up an extrnal igniter and use a fc twin post coil per rotor, I used this on a 13b bridgeport with ida in my racecar for 5ish years without any issues, just timed it to 20 degrees.