Hi guys - I recently purchased a RX7 FD3 with 13B REW engine, single turbo, OMP delete.

I had awful smoking issues so by process of elimination, I did the following:
1. removed turbo to rule out a leaky turbo
2. removed entire exhaust and DP - IC pipes
3. removed PCV valve so the breathers are clear
4. changed Fuel and engine oil and filter

Basically car is now a N/A. started up and its starts to smoke as the temps increase. the hotter it got the more smoke. I then decided to check the intake ports and found engine oil sitting on top of all 4 intake ports?

I suspected OCR but wouldnt that oil got into the exhaust side and not the intake?

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

 

It's probably oil control rings/O-rings. If the car came to you without an air filter, it's definitely oil control rings and also the side housings are probably scrap.

The oil control rings keep oil (mostly) out of the area between the rings and the side seals. That part of the rotor crosses over the intake port, so that part of the rotor sees intake vacuum on a regular basis, any oil that is in there will get sucked up into the intake port.

 

or a botched port job, which also means scrap irons. i do see the faceplate ledge though, which is a good sign someone didn't get overly crazy with porting.

Have seen silly things over the years though, like oil control ring springs clocked backwards.

 

I've done that one while assembling in a hurry. Oops.

Also, the commonly available aftermarket O-rings seem to break up very quickly. I've never had an engine that ran for any length of time that had an intact aftermarket outer ring. They always split, and a couple times they've broken in two places and the two pieces lodged against each other! Mazda only IMO, unless you are cheap like me and know you'll be in there again sooner than later.

 

some turd from greece is selling trash seals and calling them vitons on ebay, hopefully people aren't buying them but last i saw every listing had dozens to hundreds of sales. too bad for the buyers... i've never in my life seen a green "viton" oil seal. They may exist but i doubt they look like cheap silicone like these people are passing off. In my experience Viton is a very dense and almost fibrous rubber material which does not have a shiny glaze to it. They look like massive HNBR or some form of Buna seals, which can't handle the job as any form of Buna rubber is not chemical resistant.

The OEM Mazda seals aren't viton, they're some other polymer of god knows what and even the material they use isn't ideal. OEM oil seals only last 5-10 years.

the irony is the greek ebay seller pirated my listing verbage and still to this day has it pasted up on his sales pages. i contacted ebay about 10 years ago about the plagiarism and they basically told me to go F myself.

There's actually several sellers on ebay selling questionable seals now, i stopped selling on ebay when i moved to florida and they kind of took over. all my viton oil seals were bought through McMaster Carr and and my coolant seals were made from materials made in the USA. I never had anyone contact me with any issues on them. I never invested any time into teflon ecapsulated seals because my initial experience with RA seals was bad, random internal coolant leaks? no thanks.

I spent a good amount of time and also trial and error on materials before i sold any products.

 

Oh, I tried Viton O-rings after I had too many failures with "Brand A". They also broke almost instantly.

I don't know about 5-10 years, I've had 25 year old engines that were smoke free.

 

where did you get them? I have found viton seals to almost be indestructible and in some cases even reusable after several years(if you would risk it).

 

McMaster-Carr. There is a local outlet store so I get parts shipped within a day if not direct delivery.
I generally can't remember what size to get so I order sizes in the general range and choose the one that fits the best. My O-ring "stuff" box has a lot of the wrong sizes

I also use their Viton cord for the inner coolant seals and regular neoprene for the outer coolant seals, with no issue. I just buy rolls of it and glue them up myself rather than screw around with trying to figure out the actual size, and place the inner seal's joint in the coolant-dead area near the intake port and the outer seal's joint at the top of the engine at a tension bolt location. That way even if the joint leaks, it's unlikely to see coolant, and if it does see coolant, it leaks somewhere relatively unimportant.

 

not sure why you've had issues with vitons in the oil seals on the rotors, i've yet to experience that issue.