The_Fox

Like it says in the title. Once its warmed up, it will idle high (Between 1200 and 2500). When idling at 1200rpm, its a bumpy idle, however, once it passes 1500rpm, its as smooth as butter.

When I got the car, i was told that EVERYTHING emissions related had been removed, and that this was the reason it did this. Soooooo... anyone have any ideas they would care to share? What can I do to rectify this?

Oh, and yes I did a search, but didn't really come up with anything cohesive, and decided to go ahead and post.

Cheers,
James

satch

iTrader: (1)

You need to see if the timing is set correctly. You also need to see if the Fast Idle Cam mechanism is working properly. If working properly it allows the idle to slowly drop from around 1500 rpm to 750 rpm. When the engine is warm and idling what happens if you press upward on the throttle linkage at the front of the throttle body. The throttle cable and or Cruse Control cable might also be too tight.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

have you checked for vacuum leaks?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

check for vacuum leaks, check and adjust the TPS, check and adjust ignition timing and do general tune up related items like plugs/wires/fuel filter. last but not least, reinstall the rats nest/smog pump and make the 5/6th ports functional again, it's ironic that i have said this about a million and a half times but the n/a cars ran fine with all the emissions related equipment in place and served a purpose, locking the 5/6th ports open will create a semi rough idle and make the low end gutless- in essence making the car slower unless you are ALWAYS above 5k RPMs, which is doubtful.

if this all fails to make an impression on the car do a compression test, or start with one.

The_Fox

Well let's see... when I got the car, BEFORE I ever even posted, I fixed many a vacuum leak to get the car to stop breaking up. Throw in the fact that I reset the timing, and as long as I keep my foot in it, it is drivable. Decently quick above 5k? Yep.

You will excuse my sarcasm, but its ironic how I made sure to point out that I received the car with all emissions removed(oh wait, that must mean I didn't do it!), and you still gave me crap. >_>

In any case, the car is going back to the guy I got it from, and I am getting my Starion back.
I love fc's, but this is not the one, nor would I have ever traded my Starion for one if I could do it all over. (I am however, buying a 1 owner completely stock 88 gxl next week).

Thanks for the help.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Dude honestly if you can't hack doing the work to fix it you really don't deserve to own it.

It's not hard at all to fix whatever your problem is, i could have that thing idling properly in an hour tops or less, it's quite a simple fix.

1. BAC - controls the idle when electrical load is present, if removed will cause a low idle

2. Idle can be adjusted via - idle screw on top of intake (if s4) as well as repositioning the throttle cable via where it is mounted and adjusted with a 10mm nut

3. You can also go as far as breaking the screw loose on the side of the throttle body, and turning it open more to drastically bring up the idle, it may require putting a notch in the side of it to get it to break free, but after it's broken free you can pretty much adjust the idle to anything you want (it adjusts the entire throttle body to bring up the idle) . Mazda sealed it to remain where they put it, but you can readjust it yourself if you need to and know how. --- I only had to do this because my engine was streetported, i had my 5/6 ports removed completely, and i also had the throttle body mod done and had my throttle body ported

--- on a side note i had my bac removed, and later learned i should have never taken it off, did this because i removed my emissions and didnt think it was needed, if yours isn't present this could be half your problem

4. If all this fails, remove the entire intake manifold, replace the old gaskets with new, put the emissions rack back on , replace all vacuum hoses/fuel lines , may as well do the banjo bolt mod to prevent a leaking fuel pulsation dampener, as well as recapping anything with caps on it that may be cracked(something as stupid as this will cause your car not to cause idle). .

5. Most importantly - If you're serious about owning an fc , pretty much every mechanically inclined fc owner has removed their intake manifold at some point, it's relatively easy, if you aren't mechanically inclined, you really shouldn't own an fc, most mechanics don't know **** about fixing them.

There are a few other things to check, like your intake making sure its clean, spark plugs aren't full of carbon, etc.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

sorry if i was being a douche, i just wouldn't get into something you can't handle, rx7s can be a handful

im trying to get another rx7, just got a motor at the moment im trying to rebuild, the learning process is half the fun in rotary engines, totally unique compared to other cars

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

The PO most likely took the Warm up system off the car,and modded the throttle body.(thermo wax comes to mind)
That would make the car not want to idle when you start up cold.
I just have a Basic Throttle body,and it will want to cough a bit...(I don't mind sitting in the car and listening to Rush 2112 at full volume while it warms up though!)

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

^ he's probably right idk y I didn't mention that, mine was the same way because mine was removed, had to Warm it up like a dirtbike holding the gas to keep it idling till the engine was warm and could idle on its own

The_Fox

Nah, you made me keep the car. Lol jk
Still kept the car. I just kinda miss he Starion a bit. Its like this: i work 14 hours a day, 6 days a week. And i use my car for my work. So i need it run right. Lol and i don't have the time to really work with it like i need to. Refer to my meet thread in SE meet section. Lol
Thanks, and i will continue working!