NoPis10

iTrader: (29)

Builder has video of the car after start up and after he repaired the injector issue. No smoke or over heating issues during those times.
Heating issue wasn't present until a week AFTER he helped get the car running and idling perfectly.

Engine bay has water stains ALL over piping, water pump housing and inner fender well areas. Looks like it had a leak and overheated to me BUT the lighting was not the best... Just an opinion from an outside observer..... I could be mistaken...

NoPis10

iTrader: (29)

Either way..... The builder is on top of it and will help the OP resolve the issues...

djseven

iTrader: (56)

I have no dog in the fight and hope it is a minor issue that will be resolved. With that said video of the car not smoking and idling without overheating doesn't show anything. Many FDs over the years have had bad coolant seals with the only symptoms being overflow from reservoir and overheating while driving for extended periods of time. Either way best of luck to all involved.

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

if by week you mean day.. ok

and ofcourse it has stains over the water pump housing .. I took the radiator cap off while i cranked the car and it looked like a geyser.

not warm cold , and the car would not overheat while the car idled aslong as I replenished the water that had shot out of the reservoir .

before I turned the car over to him I drove from my job to his shop then to my house and while he was in the car the car did not overheat ..

if the car had started perfectly idled with good vacume , and all of a sudden one day the car started to overheat , and vacume suddenly went from 15 inches to 9 . and had issues starting . Ok I'd understand that it might of been my fault . IF I HAD OVERHEATED IT .

but again the car still had issues starting . that never changed . the vacume before , and after the coolant and over heating issues started was exactly the same .. so if a coolant issue had developed you'd think that atleast there would be less vacuum because the car was leaking compression into the coolant system no ?

but vacume remained the same at 10/9 inches at 950 rpms . this was reflected by both PFC and the boost gauge.

But like you said he is taking care of it .. I hope you understand that this is not some vain underhanded attempt at trying to get him to fix what I have broken... This is an insult at my morals. which I do not care for .

Please understand i do not want any drama. I simply want my engine to work well because its what I've been saving for and working for for the last 6 not 6 but 8 months now .

And like you stated Chris is fixing the issues. so I would rather just let him figure out what really happened..

But since we are to be open about all the issues there is one thing that I forgot to include ..

and that is temp

out side temp all these issues started when the coolant temps were under 30C

that is when the issues with coolant started . that is when the car started spewing coolant out of the motor liek a geyser .

after the car started asoon as temps raised from under 30 C to over 30 , the geyser effected stopped and when the thermostat opened up 82C the low coolant light would turn on . I added coolant to the system . and the car would drive and not overheat until the next day when the temps were under 30 .

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

I had to shut the car off to add coolant though otherwise it would still shoot coolant from the radiator cap .

but it was not enough to overpower the radiator cap spring and go into the overflow .

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

Great news! , the engine may not need to be rebuilt afterall!! , just had a couple loose ends! hopefully after the coolant pressure test is done we can start putting everything back together!

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

What are the loose ends

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

Waiting for confirmation that everything is ok .

cr7684

iTrader: (42)

Long story short the motor was only talked down to 22lbs as opposed to 29lbs. I'm not going to sit here and make up excuses, the fact is I was paid for a service & as I type this the engine sits at my shop under pressure.

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cr7684

iTrader: (42)

Torque*

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Tem120

iTrader: (5)

Got the car started again today , I wanna just say THanks for chris who gave up his weekend with his family to get my car going , and Eric for all the help

again thanks

NoPis10

iTrader: (29)

Good news....Glad it when smooth

Chris really stepped up.... Having to pull the motor, find the issue and then reinstalling everything in 3 days was just insane.....

That was a MAN ON A MISSION....

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

So an Update.. Its been long overdue . But after taking the car to a couple auto crosses and putting it through its paces it seems that now's a good time as any



Reports on the engine . After the rebuild Its working perfectly ..

old Issues fixed

Vacume is still low in the 12 inches of mercury range.. but . this was due to the so called racing beat street ports .. well they werent .. compared pictures of what was sold to me as racing beat street ports and real racing beat street port Housings .

And it was different Mine have later closing which just gives me overlap.. and a bit of an unsteady idle..

Well I can live with it . But atleast that issue was discovered.


Car takes a little longer to start , but not very long 3 seconds of cranking and its up . Hot or cold .

Sound

The sound... This I gotta say I love .. last auto-x I had half the place asking me what kind of motor was in it because it sounded so good .it has taken a different tone since the rebuild in a good way .... tunnels/overpasses ... gotta downshift... just gotta ... Over 4000 rpms it sounds great .

And I cant say I dislike the little braping at idle either.. have gotten a couple comments about it at gas stations . LOL

Power/powerband

Powerband.. Powerband seems to over shifted about 400 rpms to the right but dyno , and comparing to other people with twins . car comes alive at 2800 / 3000 rpms compared to 2500 before with the OEM twins Its Definitely noticable, But it also depends on the course tighter courses I may be out of the powerband . But forthe most part atleast on the last course the car felt Very at home . and I had the boost turned down .

Temps / problems

Since I got the motor back like was expected a couple of issues arised . but all minor ..

minor waterpump gasket leak. it was not constant only happened when the system was pressurized from abusing the car . It turned up as I was finishing the break in as thats when is started driving the car a bit harder .

But it was a small fix .

I also re worked the cooling system . Made sure everything was ducted right . and fans were working as supposed to . and coolant temps are now between 83C ( which is when the fans turn on ) to 80 which is when they turn off .

not bad considering I have a front mount . .

At auto-x The temps reached 89 at the last event . still way within range . concidering the whole run heat soak , run heat soak run heatsoak .


Oil pressure which was my previous.. catastrophic cause. Is now working perfectly goes up to 100 PSI at WOT , and 40 at idle , and 60 during cruising Using the same gauge / sensor .

a bad rats nest solenoid .. ( big surprise) caused some boost issues initially But was remedied quickly . using the old rats nest solenoids from simplifying the rats nest.



Overall .. The only things i'm not happy about is the fact that I was to naive and trusted the person who sold me those housings .

Apart from that I'm happy with the car I look forward to driving it every day . The lost in low end I'm hoping will be made up when i swap the diff with a higher ratio one .