Anti-freeze problem
02-28-03, 07:29 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl.
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anti-freeze problem
Hello everyone!
For those of you who remember me..whats up!!? for those who don't..i have a 1990 Mazda rx7 thats given me problems since day 1.
NEW PROBLEM: i have a bad anti-freeze leak in the mornings when i have the heater on. (i use them in the mornings to defrost the windshield.) Also, sometimes the car will shake and say that the engine needs to be checked..so i'm guessing that the engine is over-heating when it does that..but, i am not sure..unfortunately, the Haynes manual says NOTHING about that...has that happened to anyone? And if so..WHAT DO I DO???? Some guy said to change one of the hoses that there is probably a leak causing bad circulation...which could be it..but, i want to make sure..any ideas??? Either respond here OR contact me at Islandgrlrx7@aol.com
For those of you who remember me..whats up!!? for those who don't..i have a 1990 Mazda rx7 thats given me problems since day 1.
NEW PROBLEM: i have a bad anti-freeze leak in the mornings when i have the heater on. (i use them in the mornings to defrost the windshield.) Also, sometimes the car will shake and say that the engine needs to be checked..so i'm guessing that the engine is over-heating when it does that..but, i am not sure..unfortunately, the Haynes manual says NOTHING about that...has that happened to anyone? And if so..WHAT DO I DO???? Some guy said to change one of the hoses that there is probably a leak causing bad circulation...which could be it..but, i want to make sure..any ideas??? Either respond here OR contact me at Islandgrlrx7@aol.com
03-02-03, 05:17 PM
#2
Welcome back Lilrx7chic. I am sorry to hear that you are still having trouble with your Rx7. It seems like the shop would have replaced all your hoses when they did the rebuild, but it is hard to say for sure. You know how mechanics can be. So does your water temperature gauge read high when it does this? I hope it is not overheating because that can damage your new engine. Next time this happens, take a look under the hood and see if you can find where the anti-freeze is coming from and let us know. The shop probably just didn't tighten a hose clamp tight enough. As for the shaking, does it do it when the car is not moving? Hope things work out for you.
Kent
Kent
03-03-03, 02:08 AM
#3
Weird Cat Man
You say you have a leak when you use the heater...
Where does the coolant go? If it only leaks while you have the heater running, I suspect a leak in the heater core. Is the water leaking into the passenger area? Are you sure
? When did the leaking start? If it was after a shop did major work, it's POSSIBLE that the heater core was damaged when they removed the hoses. The hoses get stuck on there very tightly after a number of years and if you remove them with too much brute force you can bend the tube where it connects or crack the core. This causes a leak when water flows through it to make your heater work.
Anyhow, sounds like you could use a home made code checker for your car. This will let you check what the check engine light is complaining about. I think that www.teamfc3s.org has a write up on that.
Your to-do list:
1 - keep a close watch on the temperature gauge. DO NOT overheat the car. Keep that gauge right in the middle or below. Overheating it even once can ruin the engine if you are unlucky.
2 - Figure out where the coolant is going and post back here with that info for what to do next.
3 - make a do-it-yourself engine code checker and find out why your check engine light is coming on.
Where does the coolant go? If it only leaks while you have the heater running, I suspect a leak in the heater core. Is the water leaking into the passenger area? Are you sure
? When did the leaking start? If it was after a shop did major work, it's POSSIBLE that the heater core was damaged when they removed the hoses. The hoses get stuck on there very tightly after a number of years and if you remove them with too much brute force you can bend the tube where it connects or crack the core. This causes a leak when water flows through it to make your heater work.Anyhow, sounds like you could use a home made code checker for your car. This will let you check what the check engine light is complaining about. I think that www.teamfc3s.org has a write up on that.
Your to-do list:
1 - keep a close watch on the temperature gauge. DO NOT overheat the car. Keep that gauge right in the middle or below. Overheating it even once can ruin the engine if you are unlucky.
2 - Figure out where the coolant is going and post back here with that info for what to do next.
3 - make a do-it-yourself engine code checker and find out why your check engine light is coming on.
03-03-03, 10:30 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl.
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Reply to GSL-it only asks to check engine when its not moving..otherwise as soon as i take off-it turns off.
Reply to Wargasm-a friend of mines told me that it could be the heating core too. Because the leak only occurs when i have the air conditioner on in the mornings when defrosting my windshield. The leak is right in the front-i can see where the wetspot is and its right under the radiator..thats the only thing that confuses me..unless i'm thinking its the radiator and its actually not.
I'm so confused..i looked at the Haynes Manual and i read up on re-installing a heater core..so thats no problem..i just don't want to spend $80+ dollars on something that i may not need. =/
Reply to Wargasm-a friend of mines told me that it could be the heating core too. Because the leak only occurs when i have the air conditioner on in the mornings when defrosting my windshield. The leak is right in the front-i can see where the wetspot is and its right under the radiator..thats the only thing that confuses me..unless i'm thinking its the radiator and its actually not.
I'm so confused..i looked at the Haynes Manual and i read up on re-installing a heater core..so thats no problem..i just don't want to spend $80+ dollars on something that i may not need. =/
03-04-03, 12:14 AM
#5
Weird Cat Man
If there is visible water leaking, this shouldn't be hard to track down. Do you have any way to show us where the leak is? Perhaps a friend has a digital camera or something and could post up some pictures?
Keep checking your coolant levels when the engine is cold to be sure you have enough and get us a more accurate description of exactly what is leaking.
Brian
Keep checking your coolant levels when the engine is cold to be sure you have enough and get us a more accurate description of exactly what is leaking.
Brian
03-04-03, 02:24 AM
#6
Well, it seems like maybe not the heater core if it is coming from under the radiator. Could be leaking from upper/lower radiator hoses, radiator drain plug, coolant temp sensor, etc. If it is coolant. Maybe condensation from a/c condensor? Since your Rx7 is a 1990, you do not need the digital code checker that wargasm is talking about. Check you Haynes manual for it. If it doesn't have it, I'll track down a site that descibes how to check the error codes for your car. This will help you determine why your check engine light is coming on. Pics would be helpful as far as the leak is concerned. Keep us posted.
Edit: Here is the link to check your error codes:
http://home.rmci.net/panther/89_91ecu.htm
Edit: Here is the link to check your error codes:
http://home.rmci.net/panther/89_91ecu.htm
Last edited by gsl-se addict; 03-04-03 at 02:27 AM.
Trending Topics
03-05-03, 10:05 AM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl.
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys. Well, i don't think its a heater core because there is no water leak in the passenger side...
The leak is right under the radiator and most of the leakage is when i turn on the heater. Also...before..when i was on idle (after speeding..) the "CHECK ENGNE" light turns on..but now even when i'm not on idle..SOMETIMES..that light will appear and i'm getting worried...also, when i speed..the oil level goes up and the Oil light turns on..what does that mean? When they changed the parts, they changed the oil..every 3000 or so- u change the oil correct? Well, i've gone about 3 to almost 4 miles..so i'm guessing it needs an oil change but, would the temp rise like that if the engine wasn't overheating?
I wish one of you guys lived close to me because i can really use someone that really new about the rx7 that wasn't a mechanic..they seem to have a fun time messin with me and taking my money....
Someone at my job said that it could be the thermostat...that i may need a new one or it could be one of the hoses. Someone also suggested the water pump..but, thats not leaking.
Thanks for replying guys...
Oh by the way, the temp gauge always stays about the same..its close to the mid point. That doesn't move much.
The leak is right under the radiator and most of the leakage is when i turn on the heater. Also...before..when i was on idle (after speeding..) the "CHECK ENGNE" light turns on..but now even when i'm not on idle..SOMETIMES..that light will appear and i'm getting worried...also, when i speed..the oil level goes up and the Oil light turns on..what does that mean? When they changed the parts, they changed the oil..every 3000 or so- u change the oil correct? Well, i've gone about 3 to almost 4 miles..so i'm guessing it needs an oil change but, would the temp rise like that if the engine wasn't overheating?
I wish one of you guys lived close to me because i can really use someone that really new about the rx7 that wasn't a mechanic..they seem to have a fun time messin with me and taking my money....
Someone at my job said that it could be the thermostat...that i may need a new one or it could be one of the hoses. Someone also suggested the water pump..but, thats not leaking.
Thanks for replying guys...
Oh by the way, the temp gauge always stays about the same..its close to the mid point. That doesn't move much.
03-05-03, 04:01 PM
#9
its ounds like they did a **** job of building your motor. to me, words from a retard, but it sounds as if the side seals and coolant seals are leaking and you are pressurizing the oil and coolant. not sure how the heater affects this though. is there gas in either the coolant or oil? this check should decide either way.
reading further, have you checked the oil? since a rotary injects some in the chambers you could be getting low on oil. if the temp guage isn't rising to hot then technically it shouldn't be overheating. check where the hose connects to the radiator and see if you see any leak there. basically poke around the area. if you can't find it, clean the area up good, then run it till it starts leaking again and climb back under there (after it cools back down!).
reading further, have you checked the oil? since a rotary injects some in the chambers you could be getting low on oil. if the temp guage isn't rising to hot then technically it shouldn't be overheating. check where the hose connects to the radiator and see if you see any leak there. basically poke around the area. if you can't find it, clean the area up good, then run it till it starts leaking again and climb back under there (after it cools back down!).
03-07-03, 01:23 PM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl.
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
rxstasy..is that an rx3? My neighbor has two of them..he takes them to the races all the time.
Well, today i'm going to a mechanic and i'm going to get to the bottom of this..i checked the hoses and none of them seem to be leaking from anywhere..thats what bothers me..i've looked around that engine for a good hour and a half with the manual in my hand..but, i still don't know what i'm looking for so i've probably passed the problem millions of times and didn't notice..
so i'll let u guys know what the problem was..
til then. Bye
Well, today i'm going to a mechanic and i'm going to get to the bottom of this..i checked the hoses and none of them seem to be leaking from anywhere..thats what bothers me..i've looked around that engine for a good hour and a half with the manual in my hand..but, i still don't know what i'm looking for so i've probably passed the problem millions of times and didn't notice..
so i'll let u guys know what the problem was..
til then. Bye
03-08-03, 01:05 AM
#12
My car is actually a '75 808 which is the same body as the rx3, only the 808 has a 4cyl from the factory. I converted it to rotary with engine and tranny from an '83 GSL. Had to mod the tranny tho, moving the shifter back up towards the firewall approx. 4 inches to fit the original shifter position for the car.
Last edited by rxtasy3; 03-08-03 at 01:07 AM.
03-08-03, 12:33 PM
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl.
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Funny thing how a mechanic will REMOVE the air pump from the engine and not put it back...*lol* Yesterday..out of curiousity i wanted to look at the air pump..see if any hoses were lose or have fallen out of place...and..the air pump wasn't there at all..also, the water pump is whats' leaking anti-freeze...i looked at it and there was no water stains on the sides, but today when i turned it on infront of the mechanic, he saw the anti-freeze slowly coming out...-sigh-
i'm going to get it fixed on Thurs. for $225. He's also going to put a substitute to circulate the air until i get another air pump...
03-09-03, 11:23 AM
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl.
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i called the mechanic and i had him give me back the air pump so i'm going to install it myself (after i get it checked to see if it still works properly).
He told me that the only reason why he removed the air pump is because rx7's don't need the air pumps....is that true?
He told me that the only reason why he removed the air pump is because rx7's don't need the air pumps....is that true?
03-10-03, 10:41 AM
#16
if you have cats they will clog up since they aren't recieving the air they need, in turn clogging your exhaust and killing power. if you have a s5 (89-91) it also operates the 6th ports, so you will have a power/torque loss w/o out it. if you gut the cat and make a fully electric 6th port you can ditch it.
03-10-03, 11:41 AM
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl.
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, i went to the mechanic and he gave me back the air pump and i bought the water pump so i'm going to be installing them today (with some help from my uncle).
So...i have a 90 rx7 so the lack of air pump will actually lessen my torque/power? See i didn't know that..the mechanic said that all the air pump does it lessen the speed of the rx7 and thats why he removed it...so i guess that was bullshit..
well, i'll let u guys know how i'm doin after the two parts are installed.
So...i have a 90 rx7 so the lack of air pump will actually lessen my torque/power? See i didn't know that..the mechanic said that all the air pump does it lessen the speed of the rx7 and thats why he removed it...so i guess that was bullshit..
well, i'll let u guys know how i'm doin after the two parts are installed.
03-10-03, 11:46 AM
#18
that is bs. at lower rpms the 6th ports close in order to raise intake velocity, in return giving you more power at a lower rpm. on your car the airpump operates this system. not to mention you are clogging your cats. the mechanic is a moron making general assumptions. best keep your distance from him.
03-10-03, 12:36 PM
#19
Jeremy is correct. The mechanic is making a general assumption and you should not go back to him. This is the kind of thing that forces us to do most of our own work on these cars. Let us know how the air pump/ water pump install goes. I hope that fixes the problem.Kent
03-19-03, 08:44 AM
#20
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl.
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the waterpump changed..the next day the radiator was leaking anti-freeze..i added in some of that stop-leak solution in the radiator, for now. Yesterday the car was asking for more coolant-i added some in and for now it hasn't asked or leaked (from what i've seen)
my new problem is that everytime i switch from first to second gear-the car would backfire (only when i push the clutch all the way in)..what could be causing that?
When i first got the car, it would backfire after redlining..and sometimes when i'd switch gears..but, i forgot what the other mechanic did to stop it from backfiring.
Also, (lol this car is giving me trouble)..when i turn on the car (in the mornings or after its off for a good few hours), one of the belts would start making this loud screaching noise and then after 5 min.'s it'll die down...so yea, the belt is either loose and it needs to be changed..i understand that..but, which belt would that be?
I'm sorry if i'm swarming you guys with questions..but, i don't have a mechanic anymore..i'm doing all this myself and i need some advice. ;-)
About the airpump, everyone keeps telling me that i don't need it so i hadn't put it in...but, i'm going to install it today.
my new problem is that everytime i switch from first to second gear-the car would backfire (only when i push the clutch all the way in)..what could be causing that?
When i first got the car, it would backfire after redlining..and sometimes when i'd switch gears..but, i forgot what the other mechanic did to stop it from backfiring.
Also, (lol this car is giving me trouble)..when i turn on the car (in the mornings or after its off for a good few hours), one of the belts would start making this loud screaching noise and then after 5 min.'s it'll die down...so yea, the belt is either loose and it needs to be changed..i understand that..but, which belt would that be?
I'm sorry if i'm swarming you guys with questions..but, i don't have a mechanic anymore..i'm doing all this myself and i need some advice. ;-)
About the airpump, everyone keeps telling me that i don't need it so i hadn't put it in...but, i'm going to install it today.
03-19-03, 11:08 AM
#21
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Daytona beach
Posts: 1,351
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You are backfiring because the car is running rich. It could be your O2 sensor to a leaky injector. Make sure that your sparky plugs are all in good shape and firing. Make sure all your connections are good'n tight. If you redline and let go off the throttle. its going to back-fire.
Pouring that stop leak wasn't a hot idea. First its a bandaid...however not a really good one. Its like injecting cheese in your blood system to stop a cut from bleeding. Where is it that the radiator is leaking from....your best bet is to get a new radiator and flush out the engine. make sure you read the procedures on this.
The belt making a sound is not enough information to tell us which one it is. Start with the alternator though. Check to see if the belts are taunt. (*sp)
Also leave your airpump alone....The air pump is the least of your problems. Before you make modifcations to go fast, fix whats making your car go slow and problems that may cause problems in the future. With the N/A the airpump....Correct me guys if Im wrong with the 5th and 6th port actuators. Taking the airpump off would keep your 5th and 6th port close at high-end.
I offered to go check out your 7. I am in Daytona just a block away.
Pouring that stop leak wasn't a hot idea. First its a bandaid...however not a really good one. Its like injecting cheese in your blood system to stop a cut from bleeding. Where is it that the radiator is leaking from....your best bet is to get a new radiator and flush out the engine. make sure you read the procedures on this.
The belt making a sound is not enough information to tell us which one it is. Start with the alternator though. Check to see if the belts are taunt. (*sp)
Also leave your airpump alone....The air pump is the least of your problems. Before you make modifcations to go fast, fix whats making your car go slow and problems that may cause problems in the future. With the N/A the airpump....Correct me guys if Im wrong with the 5th and 6th port actuators. Taking the airpump off would keep your 5th and 6th port close at high-end.
I offered to go check out your 7. I am in Daytona just a block away.
03-19-03, 02:11 PM
#22
he hit everything on the head. you might try running a bottle or two of injector cleaner through. also a new o2 sensor if you have the cash, be it you don't already have a new one. even if this isn't the problem it will help your gas mileage and power.
on the belt i's guess the one on the waterpump pulley is now making noise since you changed it out. always look at what you've done if a problem springs up after it. chances are that be;t needs tightening.
on the airpump, who's everyone? because just about everyone on here said put it back on vs the mechanic. i even told you the reason why you need so as i'm not talking out my ***.
on the belt i's guess the one on the waterpump pulley is now making noise since you changed it out. always look at what you've done if a problem springs up after it. chances are that be;t needs tightening.
on the airpump, who's everyone? because just about everyone on here said put it back on vs the mechanic. i even told you the reason why you need so as i'm not talking out my ***.
03-21-03, 07:39 PM
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl.
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When i said everyone-i meant everyone here...i even went to Mazda and they said i didnt need it (thats beforei asked you) I want to put it in..but, these other problems i have are grabbing my attention..
About the belt..im not sure which one it is..the waterpump pulley could be it seeing how the car hadn't made that noise before that..
Eraumazda-i would appreciate it if you did stop by and look at my car..i just didn't bother asking because Daytona is kind of far..if you don't mind the trip i would appreciate it.
About the stop-leak...yea i figured it was a bad idea bc it hasn't stopped leaking...
About the belt..im not sure which one it is..the waterpump pulley could be it seeing how the car hadn't made that noise before that..
Eraumazda-i would appreciate it if you did stop by and look at my car..i just didn't bother asking because Daytona is kind of far..if you don't mind the trip i would appreciate it.
About the stop-leak...yea i figured it was a bad idea bc it hasn't stopped leaking...
03-24-03, 08:22 AM
#24
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl.
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I found which belt was loose..it was the waterpump belt..so i tightened it and it doesn't make the noise anymore...
the car still backfires after i switch gears (after it goes to about 4000 rpm's) and now it idles weird...it'll go to about 1300 and it'll go low 700 rpm's..the warning lights will go on as if it were going to stall but it doesn't stall...after that point-it'll go back up to 1300 of a 1000 rpm's again....what could that be? I'm thinking its the timing belt but, i'm not sure..and how would i go about fixing it without spending a lot of money..?
the car still backfires after i switch gears (after it goes to about 4000 rpm's) and now it idles weird...it'll go to about 1300 and it'll go low 700 rpm's..the warning lights will go on as if it were going to stall but it doesn't stall...after that point-it'll go back up to 1300 of a 1000 rpm's again....what could that be? I'm thinking its the timing belt but, i'm not sure..and how would i go about fixing it without spending a lot of money..?