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ACT Clutch Install

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Old Jan 17, 2018 | 12:21 PM
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ACT Clutch Install

Hey,

So i am having a peculiar clutch issue (slipping). Brand new clutch, and pressure plate, being installed in a brand new 13B REW Mazda engine, new flywheel, pilot bearing, oil seat, etc, all is new. New master cylinder, new slave cylinder as well. I have searched and found several threads on clutch issues, some with similar symptoms, but they never get "resolved" so instead of reviving a 7 year old thread, i figured i would just post a new one.

First off, i had a heck of a time getting the throwout bearing to lock into the Monoloc, it was just not enough of a reach to get it to lock in with the push of the fork though the slave cylinder hole. Through my searching i found a thread that TomU had to unbolt his pressure plate from the flywheel, through the inspection hole to get it to snap on, so i gave that a shot and sure enough i was able to get the throwout bearing to snap on the monoloc, then just tighten the PP to the flywheel via the access hole, yes PIA.

After this was done, i did notice that there was no play in the fork. (where the pushrod from the slave cylinder goes). i could not get it to move by using a screw driver in there, though i figured, i just couldn't put enough pressure on it with my arm, upside down, under the car, with no leverage... when i went to install the slave cylinder, it was every hard to get it mounted, i had to compress the piston completely in to get it even close to the bolts to mount up, then it went in fine when i tighten the bolts.

Went in the car and tested the pedal, there was pressure, pedal is light (lighter than i'm used to) but it sprung back without issue. So i button up the install, bleed the lines to oblivion (SS line from master to slave installed). then try to get the car to move. Engagement point is at the very top of the pedal, i pretty much let go of the clutch and it engages, not very well but nonetheless it engages. As you push the gas, you can clearly feel it slipping, and not fully grabbing.

Did a ton more research and search and search again, found a few more threads about adjusting the pedal inside the car, grabbed my workshop manual, followed the distance measurements, adjusted the pedal quite a bit, along with the master pushrod and the feel got much better. Engagement still at the top of the pedal, but at least this time it grabs a bit more, but still slips significantly, takes quite a bit of RPMs (2800 to 3100) to get it moving in a slight uphill, lower RPMs seem to grab better.

There are no issues getting the car into any gear, all 5 shift smoothly. Clutch plate was installed in the correct direction, to me it seems as if the pressure plate isn't "engaging" the clutch to the flywheel all the way, perhaps because of the slave pushrod? never heard of having to "cut" a pushrod before but from where i am, i don't really know what else it could be, more bleeding? though not sure how bleeding would make it "grab" more.

Anyhow, any help would be appreciated, this is the last item to fix before i can start putting break in miles on this new engine.
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Old Jan 19, 2018 | 02:54 PM
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From: In A Disfunctional World
Some people have installed the disc backwards.
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Old Jan 19, 2018 | 08:15 PM
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Thanks for the reply, i am 1000% certain the disc did not go in backwards. ordered a new Slave Cylinder will check out if that somehow resolves the problem
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Old Jan 20, 2018 | 10:03 AM
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From your description it sounds like your slave cylinder is not functioning correctly. It should not have taken that much effort to seat the TO bearing. Remove the slave cylinder, it should fully compress very easily.
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Old Jan 20, 2018 | 10:53 AM
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Thanks, I get the new one today and i'll remove and see if the new one goes in without as much effort. As for the TO I agree, it shouldn't take that much effort, however seems like an issue several people here have had with this clutch... not sure why.
Hopefully the slave fixes the issue.
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Old Jan 21, 2018 | 03:14 AM
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So I found the issue, when I pulled the slave out fro the trans a piece fell out.... looks like it broke at some point and it wasn't making enough contact with the fork. plus the piston wouldn't compress completely so I think it was just a bad part to begin with, so i'll be returning it and getting a refund. below is a picture of the broken slave. installed the new slave, bled the line, and everything is honky dory, thanks for the help everyone.
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 03:55 PM
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my Monoloc came with 2x "Wave Springs" do these have to be used?? my original oem wedge collar didnt have any of these wave springs.
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