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'88 FC engine problems

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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 01:57 AM
  #1  
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From: houston tx
TX '88 FC engine problems

ok i have an '88 FC my dad got me but the previous owner messed up the motor the guy told my dad that he did an oil change and wen he was done he started it up and it ran smoothly but wen he drove it around it started to make some noises and felt weird, a friend of my dad said that all that may have happened was that not enough oil got to the second rotor and i need to put oil in it, i havent started it and its sitting in a storage, so if i may ask for a 2nd opinion and if thats right how can i get the oil to the 2nd rotor?

thaks, Luis
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 05:17 PM
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ok i found out my engine lost compression in the 2nd rotor when the previous owner did an oil change is the engine still good and if so how can i fix it?
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 11:54 AM
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I am new to Rotary engines, but I would Determine the actual oil level. I believe the most important part is that your oil injection system is functional. The rotary appears to have similar function as a 2-stroke engine, and requires oil injected into the combustion chamber for lubrication.

You can check its operation by observing the oil injection system, which is located at the top of the carburetor.

I would also recommend you confirm your loss of compression, for taking the reading is not as simple as a cylinder driven engine.

I would bet that the oil was overfilled, and this is begining to interfere with the crank shaft, and putting an internal load on the engine. It could even be flooding in to places that may affect the combustion.

I would doubt that you lost your compression due to the oil change with out signs of oil leakage.

If no oil was put back into the system, forgein particles were introduced, or the drain plug was not secure; than my bet is the guys lack of experience with older vehicles caused your problems
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 10:09 PM
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From: Dinwiddie, Va
If youre getting no.compression on one rotor, sorry to say this but he probably blew an apex seal.on that rotor.

Typically if youre running on one rotor the car wont want to.hold idle, will feel weak, and will backfire after you rev it up.

Sounds like the guy is bsing about not knowing what happened or why it losy compression, or is just really stupid.

If running on one rotor engine will need to be rebuilt or replaced, goodluck.
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 10:18 PM
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From: Dinwiddie, Va
If you think.it can run, put some oil in the lower spark plug holes, a spoonful or so (this will help build compression).

If it doesnt start and floods out, you have to unflood it.

Unflooding a lightly flooded 2gen - Phase1:



Remember that you don't need to do this step for an 89-91, just floor the gas while cranking to duplicate this effect. The below instructions are for 86-88s.

1)
raise hood
2)
remove underhood fuseblock cover
3)
remove EGI fuse closest to engine
4)
Crank the car over for 5-10 seconds, 2-3 times. Car may start and die, or might sputter as if to start.
5)
Replace the egi fuse
6)
Quickly get back inside the car and start it up. IF usually helps to floor the gas at this time to let more air into the engine.

back to top
*
Unflooding a lightly flooded 2gen - Phase2:



There are a few different ways to go about this, depending on which model and year of car you have. The tried and true method entails the following:

1)
remove BOTH EGI fuses closest to engine in fusebox
2)
remove plugwires and lower plugs
3)
crank the car over 5-10 seconds with plugs out to expel extra fuel
4)
Obtain some ATF(automatic trans. Fluid) or motor oil along with a method to inject it to the lower plugholes of both rotors. This will mix with the excess fuel, rebuild compression momentarily, and help the car restart. I use a hand oil pump available at autozone, which fits in a gallon jug. You can also use a small oil can with a vacuum hose, or a funnel with a long hose. Be sure to get enough in the first time, you don't want to have to keep repeating this step. You cannot really put too much atf in, as you cant hydrolock a rotary. The excess will just get shot out the exhaust port. About 1/2 cup per rotor should be more than enough.
5)
Dry plugs and clean them with a wire brush, or replace them if you feel they're heavily fouled, or if this procedure doesnt work the first time.
6) *
Replace plugs and wires.
7) *
Replace fuses.
8)
Crank car to start. Floor the gas when doing so. Expect a lot of smoke. Hold the rpm's up a bit for the first minute or so until it smooths out and runs more normally.

This is the hard way to do the job, but it will always work. Depending on your year and model it may be possible to use an easier method.
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 10:22 PM
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From: Dinwiddie, Va
Atf i dont recommend using as it will eat the rubber seals in the engine if not immediately burnt out, its a last resort and if the engine doesnt start its just going to be causing morr problems.
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 11:17 AM
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Could simply be the computer...makes a difference from a $200 car to $1000 car, if you were sellin
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 12:45 PM
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From: Dinwiddie, Va
If the car runs why would it be the computer? The computer has nothing to do with compression and ill venture to say it wouldnt run with the wrong one.

Sure if the computer is bad ot will need replaced, but i doubt itd run at all if the ecu was at fault
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 06:25 PM
  #9  
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From: houston tx
hey everyone I haven't been on for a while but found the MAIN reason why the second rotar lost compression the guy who had it before me ran it dry and I started to pull hoses and disconnect the wiring harness and found out all he ran it with was water not even antifreeze and it wasn't enough so mine and my dads plans are to swap out engines (same 13b motor) and rebuild the old one I may be back to ask some questions any answers will be greatly appreciated I will also post pictures of my progress
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 02:12 PM
  #10  
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Ok so now some removal questions ive already gotten the wiring harness, water coolant hoses and oil cooler hoses off am i missing anything else before going for the motor mounts and pulling it up and since i am rebuiding the motor would it be easier to drain the oil now or can i leave it for a later time
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 12:15 AM
  #11  
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
unless you want a pool of oil on the floor drain off the oil pan and disconnect the cooler.

You will get fluids coming out of the engine anyways..so be prepared.Not ALL oil or coolant comes out of the engine when you drain it (in the normal way).Residual fluids will seep out when you pull the engine.(tilt..spill...Fark..!)

PS: I am surprised that it is 2 years since you posted and are just pulling the engine now!
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