inMotion719

Hey all so I have my 87 T2 I just did a swap (13b for 13b) and I'm running into a few issues. After the swap was completed it fired up once then wouldn't start after that. So I went through and did the unflooding process. Fired up the first time around for a split second.


Check the link to see it. What I did to get it running again was I changed the Air flow meter for another one I had. Got it to start up once again let it idle, and warm up to OT then I shut it off after a little because it wasn't cooling right.


Here's the link of it running^

Every time the throttle was applied it would almost die out completly. Also I noticed my oil pressure gauge was reading 35psi. The last motor I had in here was reading 60 to 80. Lastly I have this errey Buzzing sound in the cabin.

Here's what I need some assistance on I not highly skill in mechanics but I am working towards it.

I'm going to run a compression test, what are good readings for compression? Like 180psi? Lower? Higher?

Where can I hook up on the engine to do a fuel pressure test? A picture of what to look for would be easier as I don't know what's what on this engine. I'm trying to see what my fuel pressure is like, or what's a way I can test to see if I'm getting fuel to the engine?

What could be causing that Buzzing sound? There is one sensor I know of that's unhooked which is at the bottom of the radiator it has the two male ends, one of the ends broke so I could only plug one of the two females ends in. I'm guessing coolant level sensor? Other then that there is also two more plugs not plugged in. I don't know what these particular plugs are called but the blue green orange and red plugs that all sit right next to each other that have the dots where they plug into to match the color, I have those 4 plugged in but off that harness there is a yellow plug that looks exactly like the 4 other colored ones this one is just yellow, and there's a green plug with it also. What are those too?

I apologize for the mass amount of questions. I wanted to try to do write ups when I figured these things out. And I've been just going along and trying to sort things out myself and do research first about all this. It just got to a point where I decided to post something. Thanks

satch

iTrader: (1)

Compression psi should be close to 100 psi.

The sensor at the bottom of the radiator is for the 3k high rev start up when the conditions are right (cold engine and coolant temp above 60 degrees). It is not a coolant level sensor.

The buzzing in your case could be the coolant sensor at the top of the radiator. If the wire is grounded it would stop the buzzing. The oil level sensor could also cause the buzzing.

Oil psi varies depending on the engine rpm. Close to 35 psi would be normal when idling.

Submitting the wire colors of each plug would be more helpful. Location of the plug(s) in question matter as well. Green plugs near the lead coil are check connectors, one has a Black wire and an Orange wire. The other one has 4 wires, Black/White and the other 3 wires are Yellow based.

Fuel pressure is done after the fuel filter and before the engine thus placing the tester gauge inline.

inMotion719

If the wire at the top of the radiator was grounded? It is just a single wire though is there supposed to be a ground?

Where is the oil pressure sensor? Is it the sensor on the driver side above the spark plugs?

satch

iTrader: (1)

I still see no wire colors being shared. If you think I or anyone else can disseminate what the wire colors are from that pic then you are mistaken.

The coolant level sensor has but one wire and it should be Brown.

The oil pressure sender has one wire and it is Yellow/Red. It's located on the driver side of the engine housing and has a funky looking connector at the end of it which slides on the sensor (connector has a slot in the side of the plug to allow it to come into contact with the tip of the sensor).

inMotion719

Ok I will take a look at the wires and post a reply up here in about an hour with the colors of them I just looked again at the photos and couldn't tell either my apologizes.

And yeah I remember that funky connector. OK so that's the oil pressure sensor. Now you said it could be causing the buzzing, should I take off the wire clean it and plus it back on? Could they're be a break and it's causing it to short? Like I should check for that on the wire? And I'm still a little lost on the coolant sensor "if the wire was grounded it would stop the buzzing" do you mean that I need to ground it or check to see if it's grounding out?

I appreciate the help I'll get more details in a bit for those plugs.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You would ground the wire just to see if the buzzer stopped and if it did then you know the problem is related to the coolant level.

I said the "oil level sensor" was a possible cause of the buzzing and not the oil pressure sender. The level sensor is located down below at the oil pan.

inMotion719

So here are some photos of the plugs.

The green plug that's stray, not plugged into anything is one of the two I'm trying to figure out where it goes. It's wire colors are blue with red, blue with yellow, and black with white.

The other plug is yellow tinted, it's wire colors are black with white and blue with white. I also do not know where it goes.

Just an update on it. I had the battery tested it passed, had the alternator tested and it failed so I need to get an alternator, I was attempting to run a compression test last night, I got a reading from T1 and L1 but not from T2 or L2, the way I was doing the test was leave all plugs in except the one I was testing, I popped out the egi fuse, and cranked with the gas pedal held down. I got 65 psi on the two I got readings on. Any idea on how to get a reading from the other two? I read somewhere that they suggested to let it warm up to OT and then shut it off take the plug wires off and test the way I did just starting with the lower section first.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Green plug w/3 wires is a check connector and is not to be connected to anything (and the wire you described as being Blue/White sure looks to be Blue/Yellow instead). The other plug w/2 wires is for the EGR valve and that valve is on top of the engine behind the four plugs in a row that are pictured. The valve might have been removed and blocked off.

You only take compression from one plug in each housing. You might want to warm the car up before taking the test because your reading of 65 psi is really, really low.

inMotion719

Ok cool thanks for that. That was my plan tonight is to warm it up first then do the test. So when I test do I pull the upper or lower for each housing? And I only need to do one from each so not all four then correct?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Warm engine, throttle open and one plug from each of the two housings (you can choose either both top plugs or both bottom ones).

inMotion719

Ok thank you.

inMotion719

So I re tested, followed what you said and another link.

http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...ion-check.html

So far the out come is I got 75 psi in the first rotor. No readings on the second (rear). I'm at a loss here. Is half the engine good? The tester I'm using is brand new from matco. I'm hooked up on jumpers, throttle open I used both top and bottom plugs and tested like 8 or so times.

Also this thing only starts by having some one help me. I crank for 10 to 15 seconds and have him put in the egi fuse while cranking, while he puts it in I hold the gas pedal to the floor that's the only way it starts. After it got running I put the air flow meter back onto the hose.

I tried pulling all plugs and removing the egi fuse, cranking for 15 to 20 seconds with a white piece of paper next to all holes to see if anything come out, then putting close to an ounce of ATF into each plug hole then putting the plugs back in and crank for about 5 seconds the engine turns over for a second or two then dies.

That was an unflooding process I read somewhere I forgot where but that's what they suggested I do.

So where I'm at is this thing takes forever to start and is very stingy. Also after I get it running the throttle only works with it halfway applied and it doesn't climb in rpm fast it creeps up. And I can't get a reading from my second rotor housing.

I'm uploading some photos. The white piece of paper has the 4 spots. The one with it really black is L1 the one directly below that is T1.

inMotion719

In the photo it's actually the one to the left of the black smudge that's T1

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the engine is done, rebuild or replace. likely spit a seal or had been sitting with coolant in it for some time, which still gives the same result as a blown rotor.

inMotion719

Damn alright. Time for a rebuild. Can I still use the front half of the engine that I got a reading on?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

sounds like half the engine should be usable, wouldn't know how the other half is until it is torn apart.

davetheman

I am having a similar issue. fresh rebuild. will start then die, pull plugs and theyre wet, clean plugs , unflood, and does the same again. I have yet to hook up the charge piping or the air flow meter.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The AFM must be connected or the engine will die.

davetheman

i have it plugged in , with a screwdriver propping the flapper open

satch

iTrader: (1)

You don't need to have the flapper open. The AFM needs to also connected to the air intake tube and the tube needs to be connected to the throttle body otherwise there will not start. And in post #17 you mentioned it was not hooked up?

davetheman

yes I can see how that sounded confusing. sorry about that, I meant that it wasn't hooked up to the charge piping . tomorrow I will install everything correctly and see how it goes. thank you for the advice. I will let you know how it goes....

davetheman

it worked. but then I found a HUGE COOLANT LEAK, had to shut it off and it kept flooding itself