Ready to set my FD on fire
Ready to set my FD on fire
Okay, I need some assistance here. I have owned my FD since 2001. It is my baby. I blew the apex seals in 2006, long story short... It sat for some time before I finally pulled the engine & shipped it to Atkins Rotary. I got it back, built the long block, & dropped it in. It fired off, but ran like ****. Well, not totally bad, but bad enough. I drove the car around the block, & the secondary turbo did not kick in, and it was blowing raw fuel out the exhaust (though on that initial run, the power felt good, it seemed to pull like it used too). I parked it, and pulled the tank. Inside the tank was disgusting and rotted, so I pulled the tank and had it dipped and steam cleaned. I put a new fuel pump in, and this time around, it devolved into running even worse. It sounded like it was running on one rotor, with raw fuel being dumped. I pulled the injectors, had them ultrasonically cleaned and balanced, and tried again. Still, it is running like absolute hell. It will flood when started, then after it is purged, it will fire off, then die. Then not start. I also replaced all of the coil packs. Flashing the PCM for codes give me nothing either... I am at the end of my rope. I feel like an idiot because I am an ASE certified Master tech, and I am lost. I can't bring myself to ship it off to someone. That would be a huge embaressment. The other issue is, I am working it in between months long gaps (when I have time) which makes things even worse when remembering where I am at diagnostic wise (I am married with 4 kids, life is busy). Oh, I also have a single accufab 90 mm throttle body on it (long story), 3 wire tps wired into the PCM. It worked great before it blew, and I also ohmed it out & checked alldata to ensure I have what I need. It specs out. Any help would be so awesome. I am humbled, and needing you guys! It had been so long since I had been on here that I had to make a new acct lol!
Last edited by Murphdazzle; Apr 3, 2016 at 03:58 PM.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
i'd start with the basics, and maybe make a check list, so you don't need to remember where you left off last time.
1. check compression. i'd pull the plugs and just crank it with everything open for a bit, if its flooded it'll test low, so we're looking for 3 even bounces per rotor more than an actual number.
2. new plugs, old ones are probably bad, but keep em in case you need to diagnose something later.
3. since you have new coils/plugs and probably wires, put a timing light on it, and make sure its got spark. it probably will.
4. might as well check for codes, it'll only have them at this point if stuff is unplugged, so it probably won't do much, but its easy.
5. next its time to make sure that the MAP sensor vacuum line plugged into the right place.
6. since the coolant temp sensor and the fuel temp sensor are the same make sure the connectors aren't swapped. if they are it runs like poop
1. check compression. i'd pull the plugs and just crank it with everything open for a bit, if its flooded it'll test low, so we're looking for 3 even bounces per rotor more than an actual number.
2. new plugs, old ones are probably bad, but keep em in case you need to diagnose something later.
3. since you have new coils/plugs and probably wires, put a timing light on it, and make sure its got spark. it probably will.
4. might as well check for codes, it'll only have them at this point if stuff is unplugged, so it probably won't do much, but its easy.
5. next its time to make sure that the MAP sensor vacuum line plugged into the right place.
6. since the coolant temp sensor and the fuel temp sensor are the same make sure the connectors aren't swapped. if they are it runs like poop
lol! Alright thanks guys. I will check the connectors tonight. I will also re-verify spark again. A check list... Why am I so dumb as to not even think about something that simple is beyond me. I think it's just because everything I repair at work is torn down & rebuilt immediately (no need for a list). I am not used to dragging something out over the course of years. I cannot say how thankful I am for this forum though. I will keep you guys posted!
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
the other dealership took an FD in on a trade, and it had a bad motor, so they put one in.
$12,000 later,after changing the engine again, and turbos, and harnesses and whatever else $12k bought you, they paid someone $500 to come and fix it in the middle of the night
he swapped those 2 connectors, done.
$12,000 later,after changing the engine again, and turbos, and harnesses and whatever else $12k bought you, they paid someone $500 to come and fix it in the middle of the night
he swapped those 2 connectors, done.
the other dealership took an FD in on a trade, and it had a bad motor, so they put one in.
$12,000 later,after changing the engine again, and turbos, and harnesses and whatever else $12k bought you, they paid someone $500 to come and fix it in the middle of the night
he swapped those 2 connectors, done.
$12,000 later,after changing the engine again, and turbos, and harnesses and whatever else $12k bought you, they paid someone $500 to come and fix it in the middle of the night
he swapped those 2 connectors, done.
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,596
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Have you verified fuel pressure? AFRs? Did you change ur fuel filter after you ran the fuel from the disgusting tank? Verified injectors arent stuck open? Possible that you didnt purge the fuel lines after you had the injectors cleaned and flow tested, and more gunk clogged them up?
Okay, so I found a restriction in the fuel line. I purged it, and replaced the filter (filter was pretty gummed up, so I put in another "new" one again). I do have a question about the fuel temp sensor vs. the coolant temp sensor plugs... Does anyone know the wire colors of both so I can verify they are in the correct location?
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