13brew sitting for 4yrs...a few questions
#1
13brew sitting for 4yrs...a few questions
I was swapping my car to single turbo and hit a small snag, then i got really busy with work and starting my own business and had no time for the car. The motor is in the car with oil but no coolant, as I removed the radiator for the new ic setup.
We'll I'm back now trying to get her going again. I put some marvel mystery oil in and cranked it by hand for a couple weeks and finally did a compression test.compression was 85 on the front and 88 on the back. I know that doesn't tell me about the coolant Seals. Is there a way I can test for that?
should I just go for it And see how it goes? Should I rebuild since my motor is most likely undamaged? Or am I over thinking this?
thanks everyone for your input.
We'll I'm back now trying to get her going again. I put some marvel mystery oil in and cranked it by hand for a couple weeks and finally did a compression test.compression was 85 on the front and 88 on the back. I know that doesn't tell me about the coolant Seals. Is there a way I can test for that?
should I just go for it And see how it goes? Should I rebuild since my motor is most likely undamaged? Or am I over thinking this?
thanks everyone for your input.
#2
roTAR needz fundZ
iTrader: (1)
Are those compression #'s after a rebuild or still stock? If its stock i'd just rebuild cause those #'s are getting a little hairy, and with it sitting for a couple years with nothing to help the coolant rings, they may have shrunk and gotten brittle
I'd say rebuild to be safe
I'd say rebuild to be safe
#3
Stock port, stock seals. About 40k on rebuild. I know ur supposed to test compression on a warm motor but that's not possible. I used my truck to jump it so good battery on the test. I did see even pulses from each rotor also. I'm mainly concerned with the coolant Seals of course at this point.
#4
roTAR needz fundZ
iTrader: (1)
About the only way you could check them is rig up a coolant tester and put air to the motor itself, and see if you have air coming out of your spark plug holes. But, even still, once the motor warms up after you put it all back together, it may still break an oring and you have to tear it apart again. Honestly flip a coin and go from there. If it were me, i would take the motor apart, check all wear items see if there in spec, and at least replace all soft seals, that way your not chancing it
Trending Topics
#10
If the coolant Seals were bad, I would have coolant in the housing correct? At least any residual coolant still in the motor that didn't drain with the radiator. My housings and rotors look clean through the exhaust ports. Of course this doesn't tell me how they'll do in a running motor since it's been sitting.
I'm really leaning towards rebuilding right now.
I'm really leaning towards rebuilding right now.
#13
Well I actually found a really good deal on a new motor with no core required so I'm buying that one for sure. I'll most likely be parting out my existing motor in the near future.
I would start it but there us a considerable amount of work required to get the car to that point so I think I'd rather do it all once on the new motor. I am however curious if the coolant Seals are fine.
I could sell the motor as is but I'd probably get more by parting out.
Thanks to everyone
I would start it but there us a considerable amount of work required to get the car to that point so I think I'd rather do it all once on the new motor. I am however curious if the coolant Seals are fine.
I could sell the motor as is but I'd probably get more by parting out.
Thanks to everyone
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
turbo-minivan
General Rotary Tech Support
69
02-04-16 12:29 AM