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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 08:24 AM
  #1  
HasteTheMoment's Avatar
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From: ke
13B reliable?

I just picked up a 86 rx7 with a rebuilt motor with 35k by mazda. How long will this motor last, and any tips in driving a rotary to keeep it running good?
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 08:42 AM
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l67sc01's Avatar
who needs pistons
 
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From: derby ct
if you do the regular oil changes and tune ups to it and dont over rev the engine the engine should last you well past 150k
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 10:47 AM
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correction, the engine needs to be regularly redlined to keep carbon off. At least once a week.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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From: ke
yeh I heard that too. carbon build up= blown seals. its my first rotary motor so I don't know too too much about em.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 11:11 AM
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Assuming the motor is still in good shape, I'd say you're over the "hope-it's-not-a-lousy-rebuild" hump. So 175k is typical.

The engine is more likely to fail from getting an oil change than from not getting an oil change. Someone might forget to tighten the drain plug. What I mean is, do change the oil regularly, but the cooling system is much more important. Change the coolant and thermostat every 12-18 months. Use an OEM (Mazda) thermostat. Inspect the hoses and belts too. Pull over within 30 seconds if it's ever about to overheat or if the oil pressure hits zero (drain plug fell out or oil cooler line broke off). Do this and it can go to 350k miles.

Regular redlining, good quality gas (Chevron/Texaco/76/Shell/Conoco) and API certified oil are also good to keep it clean for good compression - i.e., power, fuel economy, and easier starting. Also replace the fuel pulsation dampener when it leaks or every 100k miles, to prevent an engine fire.

Last edited by ericgrau; Mar 16, 2008 at 11:19 AM.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 04:43 PM
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Don't forget to premix
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 04:56 PM
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Why premix when your OMP is working properly?
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 07:41 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by rx7doctor
Why premix when your OMP is working properly?
A little 500:1 never hurt nobody Anyways, I agree that IF your OMP is in proper working order, you don't need to premix. I guess I've just had OMP bad luck.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 09:25 PM
  #9  
polito Racing's Avatar
so you got pistons oh wow
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since this is your 1st rotary I'm sure you are full of questions. here is a link that I'm sure will help you. Good Luck and welcome to the club.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-faq-fc-494667/
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 09:12 AM
  #10  
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From: NYC/T.O.
I sometimes run 790:1 fuel to 2-stroke for added insurance on race days.

That's 3 oz. 2-stroke per full tank of gas @ 18.5 gallon S5 gas tank.
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 11:38 AM
  #11  
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Either way... HasteTheMoment, rotarys are sensitive to oil choices and oiling choices. This is because in a rotary oil is getting injected into the engine. A poor oil will not burn as cleanly as a good oil. Viscosity is another factor to consider as well. Personally I'd pick up a case of Idemitsu oil from mazdatrix or wherever and run that.
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 01:15 PM
  #12  
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From: NYC/T.O.
Castrol GTX is the preferred mineral oil.

As for oil weights, Mazda's recommendations are in the 2nd gen stickies, FAQ.
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 08:20 PM
  #13  
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by Roen
Castrol GTX is the preferred mineral oil.

As for oil weights, Mazda's recommendations are in the 2nd gen stickies, FAQ.
http://www.racingbeat.com/Tech/Tech.Oil.3.htm

Here's a little racing beat wisdom
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 11:57 PM
  #14  
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Dont use Synthetic because it not as burnable as mineral oil. The rotary engine needs to consume oil. so no burn=Bad.
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Old Mar 21, 2008 | 10:48 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by ericgrau
Assuming the motor is still in good shape, I'd say you're over the "hope-it's-not-a-lousy-rebuild" hump. So 175k is typical.

The engine is more likely to fail from getting an oil change than from not getting an oil change. Someone might forget to tighten the drain plug. What I mean is, do change the oil regularly, but the cooling system is much more important. Change the coolant and thermostat every 12-18 months. Use an OEM (Mazda) thermostat. Inspect the hoses and belts too. Pull over within 30 seconds if it's ever about to overheat or if the oil pressure hits zero (drain plug fell out or oil cooler line broke off). Do this and it can go to 350k miles.

Regular redlining, good quality gas (Chevron/Texaco/76/Shell/Conoco) and API certified oil are also good to keep it clean for good compression - i.e., power, fuel economy, and easier starting. Also replace the fuel pulsation dampener when it leaks or every 100k miles, to prevent an engine fire.
aww man, if your useing the mazda part I think changing the thermostat every year is beyond exessive, I think its one of those 3-5 year things.
But I'd also change the radiatior cap, buy a new mazda one.
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