I'm getting ready to make the final hole in the shift rod and need to know how much exactly further down the rod to drill it from the factory one. So far with my plastic caliper and eyeball technique I come up with 3cm, Is this right? It may be + or - 3mm for all I know... Anyone know for sure where the hole has to be drilled? I don't want to **** this up.

Oh yeah, hehe I'm using a FB shifter housing/shifter and the T2 rod, anyone do it this way?

 

give me two days, i have a friend whos done it in his, and ill be doing it shortly so ill need to know myself

 

i have!!! like you didnt know pff stock shifter location is for wussies it only moved min back about an inch and works fine

 

Did you just put the T2 tranny in with no mods? or are there special requirements?

Ryan

 

umm well i had to cut 1" back and wire it up and make a mount... thats about it, a dremal would do the job.

 

K, I'll be expecting a number Thur

 

Any measurement yet? I kinda want to get the ball rolling on this. I have the shift rod at work just wanting to jump on the bridgeport to get a new hole in it

Here's a pic for you to look at. Shows the difference between the T2 shifter housing (left) and the FB one (right). Notice the detents in the T2 rod, there for a netural safety switch...hmm maybe hook up a remote start. you can also see the holes that I'm talking about at the end of the rod (bottom of pic).

 

Is this swap, FB shift rod and housing to a turbo 2 tranny, as easy as this photo makes it out to be.

 

from the pic i think you can just swap the rod and housing to TII tanny and you won't need any cutting for the shifter hole

 

I'm curious, why can't you just put the FB shift rod in? It looks like the only problem would be that the hole is drilled in a different place rotationally (if I'm looking at the pic corrently) which would actually be advantageous - the shifter would end up closer to the driver. (I've noticed, both in my Mazdas and my Subaru, that the shifters are biased towards the OTHER side of the car) It might have some bind problems from the different angle, but that's nothing a die grinder can't clearance.

Hmm, I have an idea... put the T2 trans in the way it is, then put an SA shift lever in there. SAs have the shifter located roughly where the rear shift tower bolts are on the FB trans. They make up the difference with a nice long shift lever that is angled back. The shift lever pivot locator pin is on the BACK on an SA instead of in the front, so putting the SA lever in a later trans would have the shift lever angled forward. It would hit the center console in an FB setup but it just might clear with the T2 trans. Plus you'd have a cool looking reverse-angled shift lever like a Cobra.

 

I wish it were that easy guys... The problem is the shifter housings are further apart in length than the rods. If you look closely at the pic you can see the rods are closer in length then the housings. But the FB housing does bolt up (thanks mazda) to the T2 trans.

 

So machining the FB shaft would be the ideal way to get the stock shifter location with a t2 tranny?

 

I feel ya man, I know Im gonna have this problem very soon in my car. So Im listening up, I did however get this from Felix's site

 

trust me you cant just swap the fb stuff onto it, i tried many times and put it all together and you get stuck in 3rd and cant do anything unless you machine the rod down and drill a new hole. it looks decieving though

 

From what I've gathered all I need to do is drill a new hole in the T2 rod and cut the excess off so it will fit in the housing. I figure I'd cut/drill the new rod insted of the FB rod because it has the detents for the neutral safety switch.

Rx7passion is right, the FB rod is ~ 1cm too long.

 

Why do you want the NSS? Just curious. It seems like it's just one more thing to have to wire in. Besides, how are you going to drive the car home if the clutch hydraulics fail? (Have to be able to crank the starter while the car's in gear!)

 

or if your battery dies... ever try and push start a car with neutral safety switch?

 

Neutral Safety switch? 85's have em???

I've never known about it. I only sometimes push the clutch when starting my car and I've launched the car forward a few inches when I've forgotten as I usually park in gear.

Why would it hinder push starting the car? Turn the car to the RUN position, push it, get in, low gear it, and pop the clutch. NSS just disables the CRANK position of the ignition.

 

Yelp !

 

If I use the neutral switch at all it won't be to disable my car from starting... If I ever put a remote start in it I'd wire it through the switch so it won't try to crank my engine if it's in gear, thats the only reason I'd use the switch.

Well looks like "thejersy7" never got back to me so it's going to get it's new hole drilled 3cm down from the other. I'll let you know how it works out.

 

thats the way to go

 

Your the first person other than me that has mentioned using a relay through a neutral safety switch to do a remote start... I do it quite often at work on 5 speed cars... with a warning of course and a disclaimer to sign

 

It worked! Drilled the hole 3cm down from the first and BING fits like a factory job.

 

cool quick archive this thread

Now all we've got to do is figure out a quick and easy way of using readily available parts to make a driveshaft... I think I may have a way of doing it but I need some hard measurements first!

 

archived!