This is what it looks like dead cold .. and throttle fully released, should this screw be touching?



This info pertains to this post; https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=123984

Thanks.

 

That's your idle stop screw. Yeah, it's supposed to be touching the assembly. Your throttle cable may be too tight and not letting the assembly turn back far enough to hit the screw.

 

Ya, its not the throttle cable ... I assumed it was the idle stop screw... but would it touch when cold? or only when the cold start assembaly has done its thing?

 

your dashpot is most likely holding it away. Warm the car up and check it.

 

I was just checking things out ... and it looks like my high idle cam screw was WAY off.... I got a mirror in there and made some adjustments. I hope thats the problem. I am going to put things back together and see what happens.

 

I just checked mine and it's not touching. when cold, the throttle is held open a few % (you can watch it with the Safc) and slowly closes as it warms up.

I'd say your problem is with the cold start stuff. because that is where it idles when cold. 1500.

 

Touching when the engine is hot. Not touching in the morning when you walk out to the car and its a cold engine. Sounds like your on the road to success.

 

I think my dashpot is smoking pot! I adjusted it with a mirror to the specs of the book. at 77 deg. Well, its 73 deg outside .. so that should be right on ... I got back from a 15 miles or so drive and It would not hold any idle I had to give it gas to keep it running ...

then I hpped out set the initial set jumper and turned the idle screw out .. it got to 500 RPM's on the S-AFC .. and ran out of screw commin out ! Its the exact opposite now!

But I looked at the marks, popped off my IC .. while it was still hot and looked at the high idle idicator marks with a mirror again ... and *** I dont think it moved.

Is my dashpot/High idle system smoking pot?

 

put you BAC back on....

the dashpot doesn't effect idle..

now that you cold idle is fixed, and it's idleing down now like it should. you just need to set the warm idle. either with the bac or the throttle stop screw.

 

Okay Im gonna post a pic here in a second ... but; here is my next problem . I screwed the high idle all the way in so its out of the way ... like it should be when the dashpot is working right. And it wont even come close to holding a idle .. even with the idle screw at max idle. Its looks like I am only going to be able to get a idel by useing the high idle cam to do it??? WTF is up with that?

 

I have the throttle stop screw all the way out, it wont hold a idle .. . I have to have the BAC conected to get a warm idle ? I thought that was just for accesories like AC? I thought the dashpot was the device that moves the high idle cam, lemme post a pic.

 

dash pot is just a "shock" for when the TB slams closed

screw is all the way out?? shouldn't you be screwing it in to open the TB more?

it touches now that it's warm right?

 

Excuse the compact .. I had to dig it out of my weekend drag queen drawer. But its the only small mirror I had.

This is a pic of it HOT... it doesn't seem to have moved. thats the same line I set it to when it was cold. Is the wax thingy bad? I thought the wax thingy was called a dashpot .. I might be wrong with the name.

 

dashpot is the big round thing in the first pic, right beside the red circle.

does the screw in the first pic touch now?? screw it in more to open the TB. then the idle will be higher.

 

If I manually adjust it, to where the idle stop screw is the only thing stoping it ... it will not hold any idle. Even if I back the idle screw on the BAC all the way out.

 

Its screwed all the way in .. you can tell from the first pic

 

Your thermowax might be stuck - you can unhook the spring on the thermowax and disable it.

Dale

 

Okay ... if I think my thermowax is hosed. IF I disable the thermowax part and turn my idle stop screw up a little bit (sorry scott your right .. it does have some play left in it I thought that was a bolt on the end .. but its a nut with a headless bolt thing in the middle I can adjust it more) get my idle right with the BAC disconected... with it at running tempature, will it start okay in the morning ... or is it going to die when its cold? Also ... adjusting all these stop screws is going to fug up my TPS right? I will need to readjust that.

Then after I get that all right .. I should ba able to hook my BAC back up and it should not affect my idle right? Or should I do all this with the BAC hooked up?

 

I'd hook the BAC up now. it'll probably help. the real way to adjust the idle is using the screw on the BAC.

 

The mirror.....your right. The cam has not come off the roll pin. This could be the thermowax piston not extending...or just a maladjusted setting of the thermowax/fast idle screw. Next time you have the throttle body off, pour the boiling water on the outside of the thermowax and see if its piston extends. It probably will.

The bac is a part of your idle system, although a properly tuned car will have a 750 idle even with the bac's plug pulled off. But say you set the idle to 650 with the initial set coupler.....when you pull the initial set coupler, the bac should make up the difference b/t 650 and 750.

Advice....go to the online manual and follow the procedure for setting the thermowax/fast idle screw.

Good picture with the mirror.

 

Update! Okay here is what i did. I put my S-AFC at the sensor check position ... I set it 1 volt with the high idle backed all the way off, based on my idle stop screw. Then I turned to high idle screw till my TPS read about 1.5 volts... I figured that would be a decent high idle position. I hopped in the car and went for a good 20 minute spin .. got home and BAM the sensor voltage at idle was still 1.5 volts (theroy 1 correct, the piston on the thermo wax jobber is NOT extending) .... so on to plan B.

I then backed the high idle screw all the way out .. (disableing the high idle, so it would not get in the way, since i proved its not working anyways) I then set my idle set screw in a little more... adjusted the TPS to 1.0 volts exact. Put everything back together and and ran the car again .. (ahh I set the BAC idle screw at about halfway so I had play for a lower & higher idle) came back .. I had a steady 1200 ish Idle .. I put on the set initial jumper and tuned the BAC idle screw in till the S-AFC read 800 RPMS .. pulled the set inital jumper.. went for another spin and BAM I am locked in at a cool and even 800 RPMS!!!!

Now my high idle system is totally disabled at this point ... but I do have a solid warm idle, and at this point in time thats all I need to smog this. I can now smog it next week. then pull the upper intake off to install my new primary injectors and at that point I will replace, ot fix the high idle thermowax thing.

Thanks for all your help fellas, I it would have took 2 weeks longer without the advice.

BTW: Scott, when i meant I have the BAC off I meant just the plug.. not the whole unit.

I'm happier than a pig in **** right now .. I will am going to have to retune everything after I install all my other aftermarket stuff. so this is a good enough position to get what I want out of it .. and thats a smog certificate, then I will fix everythign else and retune after.


P.S if there was time trials for taking off & replacing a TMIC I would be damn hard to beat

 

About taking the intercooler on and off......I took the advice of a member of this forum, bought some pvc tubing and elbow to go with it. The pvc replaces the intercooler and gives you room to play with the fast idle screw, idle stop screw, and that other screw for the thermowax, while the engine is still hot and running if required. Cost about three bucks and some hacksawing to shorten the pvc tubes to the right length.

 

I can see mine now mmm FMIC