ok, talkted to mrrx7tt and he said most likely needed to be burped so i did it again. ive run throught the process about 4 or 5 times now. her idle gets smoother and she starts up easier and easier. BUT occasionally ill start her up and shell idle right under 2k. and if i drive her she still starts to climb the heat gauge. so ive check the coolant system and i cant imagine it having THAT much more air in it that the AST couldnt tke care of. the water pump was fine when the motor was re-built. that leaves the thermostat. BTW i can only drive the car for less than 3 mins before she startes to go past the halfway point on the gauge. think its the thermostat? and how can i check it? where is it located? thanks again.

 

Its for sure the thermostat. Ill tell you how to check it: buy a brand new one put it in and notice the difference... I find this method to be the easiest because boiling a thermostat & waiting for it to open under the right temp is just a pain in the ***...

 

where is the thermostat located? and how do i unintall/install?

 

do you know spuvo?

 

do you know spurvo?

 

The thermostat is in the waterpump housing...some folks call it the filter neck...drain the coolant, then unbolt that puppy...I think it's three 10mm bolts that hold it on.

 

arg. to unbolt that it means that i have to take those belts off .......again....kill me god. kill me now

 

Apnea's got it right (of course!). As you look at the filler neck, if you trace down the body of the housing the filler neck is "attached" to, you will see three bolts. You will need to drain the system of coolant, remove the AST return line (the one going to the front of the block), then remove the housing that's held on by those three bolts. You will also need to pull the IC piping to get in there, and it is helpful to take the alternator belt off and shove it out of the way so it doesn't get coolant all over it.

The new thermostat should be bought from Mazda, as this seems to be the only one that actually opens at the right temperature and make the car run properly. When you put the T-stat in, you will notice there is a little pin sitting in a hole in the T-stat. This is called a jiggle pin, and is used to help equalize pressure in the cooling system as you fill it. Make sure the hole with pin is at teh top of the T-stat as you put the new one in.

also be sure the T-stat is inside it's rubber gasket. The gasket has a groove in the inside of it, and the T-stat fits in this groove.

This does sound like a T-stat issue to me as well. Odd though, since the engine was recently rebuilt.

 

Get a Miata T stat.

 

You dont need to remove the belts, just pop those 3bolts off and it sit right in there, looks like a little UFO... Wooohh

 

Didn't mean to remove them completely, just get 'em out of the way so they don't squeal like Ned Beatty on restart.

 

Yea Ned Beatty in your engine bay would suck, good thinkin... Who's Ned Beatty anyway ??!

 

One word...

Deliverance.

http://www.filmsite.org/deli.html

 

R1 Junkie,
Never got any e-mails but I did talk to you. Let me fill you in on the car.
The car was brought to me with a bad motor. The motor was pulled and while pulling the motor we found:
1) Multiple broken solenoids
2) All the vacuum hoses had been re-aranged, some not connected, some spliced off, some T'd-off etc.
3) There were resistors plugged into the solenoids and the RRFPR was unplugged.
4)The wiring harness had been cut and we believe it was also bad. (It's a absolute spaghetti nightmare).
5) We also found 4 or 5 bad sensors.
6) No pills in the waste gate or pre-spooler hoses.
7) Bad thermal sensor as well.

I wonder if the fans even work?

We started up the car and ran it for a couple of minutes. We even ran a compression test on the motor with a mazda factory tester and had the local dealer mazda tech come over and do the test, all high 8's. Perfect. Every seal in that motor was new and it also has teflon water O-rings.

We explained to Aaron that he needed to fix ALL those problems but he was going to have to purchase a new Wiring harness, soleniods and mutiple sensors and hoses. He would also have to pay us for the work.
WE TOLD HIM THE CAR WOULD NOT OPERATE CORRECTLY UNTIL THOSE PROBLEMS WERE CORRECTED AND THE CAR WAS NOT DRIVEABLE UNTIL THEY WERE FIXED.
He said he knew about the problems and would take care of them later. The chassis had about 165,000 miles on it at the time if I recall correctly.

That was almost a year ago...

I have never seen a car that was butchered up the way this one was. Who ever worked on the car before I recieved it had NO IDEA what they were doing.