I tested this, I can weld all the way around the top of the A-pillar bar to main hoop joint by simply removing the boxes. I'll document that process as I get closer to building the real thing.

Before I start the door bars, I need to cut out the side impact beams in the doors.

It says in the GCR that you can remove the door handles (and I'm assuming the latching mechanism). Does anyone have any suggestions on pinning the doors? How about lightening the hinges?

NOPR, can you see why the boxes are stronger than a simple plate welded to the floor? Also, it makes the welding around the top of the A-Pillar to Main hoop joint much easier.

 

Is the a-pillar bar multiple pieces tacked together?

 

Yes, I found it to be an effective way to mock the bar up before I make the real thing. Its what I did for the main hoop as well, and fitment was better than I had expected for my first time doing this. I sacrificed some tubing to do it, but when the main hoop was done, I cut the mockup bars apart and used them for the A-pillar.

 

You can remove all the stock latch stuff and fill the handle holes on the outside.

I left the hinges alone and saved weight by using fewer of the bolts to hold the door on. I use hood pin that is attached to the chassis about where the stock latch was. It pins through a tab on the door with a clip that is on a small chain. The chain acts as a way to pull the pin because it is attached to the door a couple feet forward. Just push/grab/pull the chain and the door is open. Same thing on the pass side.

 

Both sides - shaved handle, latch mechanism retained with cable pull. Looks good, weighs nothing, easy.

 

That's what I was hoping. Pretty good idea. I had went through the GCR and didn't see anywhere that it said you couldn't use multiple tubes butt welded (with the exception of the main hoop) but was hoping you weren't actually building it that way.

 

It all makes sense now. I am enlightened.

 

This looks nice.

 

You have a nice work space.

 

Thanks, but its not mine; I brought some tools for the shop to use and I help out, and I get free use of the space. Its a nice agreement.

I continued building the cage. I got the A pillars done and the final base plate finished. Now, most of the cage will be straight bars, a few simple bent bars, nothing as hard as the A-Pillar bars. The door bars will be difficult, I probably wont get to them for a while.

















I lightened up the pedal bucket and the bracket that holds the pedal bucket up. I cut that bracket from the firewall (I plan to attach it right to the front cross bar) and chopped off all the steering shaft support part of the pedal bucket. I plan to make my own steering shaft to reduce the rotational inertia of the steering system for faster steering response, as well as to reduce the overall weight of the system. My new design will still remain collapsible, but will not be adjustable up and down, which will account for most of the weight savings.





finally, i successfully welded 0.035" steel using filler rod....

 

Yum

 

I made aluminum side mount brackets utilizing the 8 available bolt holes on the racetech seat for added safety. I am tall, so I cut out the stock seat mount brackets and put the seat on the floor, then tilted it back to where the front of the seat sufficiently supported my legs.

Because the seat was on the ground, I had to structure the seat mounting system from the outside of the car: from the undercarriage. I don't like welding to mazda sheet metal, and i am not happy with the appearance of the welds, but whatever.

Basically, I wanted to make sure that the seat would not rip the mounts out if I got in a severe collision. I do want some energy absorption (elastic deformation) in a severe case, but i dont want it to freely break away and snap my neck or my back. Hence the "cage" I built outside, reinforced to whatever that frame rail looking thing is.

 

I am not going to make a full X-brace due to weight and head clearance issues. I am already doing the X bracing that takes up the passenger compartment, so I need to watch the weight....

Also, I will most likely not make bent door bars on the passenger side as that takes more length; and hence, more weight. I will probably do a simple X-bar on the passenger side. Since its so far away from me, I don't care how much it crushes in, as long as its not 4 feet!

Fabricating the seat-back brace is going to be a challenge with that tight of clearance between the seat and the harness bar!

Hopefully, I can get the door bars halfway finished tomorrow.

Cheers!!!

 

 

Can you post a picture of this? I had the idea of pinning the door but wasn't sure how legal it was or how easy it would be to get in and out.

 

seeing all the progress is really neat. great work.

 

Nice work so far, I'll try to get a pic tomorrow.

 

im new to the whole scca e production stuff, but is it legal to make composite body panels? Iv seen a 3rd gen with a complete carbon fiber body. Just curious = )

 

Composite body panels are fine. Everything but the doors can be replaced with alternate material. IDK about the roof, half the cars in the classes are convertibles though.

 

Cann't believe it took me so long to find this thread, good work man!

Life is too short to not race your car.

I'm doing my cage next year (baby on the way this year). I'll have to get your notes on your cage.

BTW did I end up with the fastest RX7 in the house (straight line)? Winning by default when no one is playing any more is awsome!

 

way kool dude!!

 

I believe I still possess the fastest time slip. I declare myself the winner until a faster one is produced. Also, I can't believe you're having a freaking baby. Please name it Max. Thank You.

 

Looks nice!

Couple questions:

1) How are you going to paint the cage? you have some seriously tight (good) clearances in some places.

2) Where the hell am I supposed to sit!? Or some sort of race instructor for that matter......

 

Yargh, slipping clutch means bad ET's, but I did get let off with a warning by Flint 5-0 for 115/30 MPH zone.

1) A wise person once told me racecars get totalled before they rust out. I'll have to live with the unpainted portions of the cage. Maybe use linseed oil with a brush if I can get to those portions?

2) I'll rely on the devil on my shouder to instruct me >:-) MAYBE I'll let you drive it?

 

Just paint most of it before you install it. Clean the paint off the spots you need to weld and touch them up later.