Speedworks

Well, I've lost it I guess.

I bought an engine stand last week and I already tried to hook my engine up to it, but I haven't made it that far.

Problem is, you need to bolt it up with the 4 holes in the front plate where normally the power steering pump is. So it seems those holes are different (2 upper are thesame, 2 lower thesame).

The upper ones are M10 with fine metric tread. for those I found bolts.
For the lower ones you need M12 and I guessed they are also fine metric. Well they are so hard to turn I really doubt thatt they are correct.

Can someone put me out of my misery and help me out?

Thanks

multirotor

iTrader: (1)

Sorry I didn't return your call yesterday, I was working late...

I never actually used my engine stand (always used the floor for disassembly and a table with a hole for assembly) but I tested the stand by hanging up a front iron only (no complete engine yet).

I used two M10 bolts + a nut on the big stud which is fixed to the front iron. I had to drill an extra hole in the engine stand flange for the second M10.

Speedworks

Hy Wim, thanks. Don't worry.

Well I figured it out...hehehe. It took 2 M10 bolts of about 7cm long with fine metric tread and 1.25mm of "spoed"

the 2 others are M12 for sure, it's fine metric but with a different "spoed". I used some of the subframe bolts I had around from my previous Opel project.

Wim, if you want 2 of the M10 bolts, I got some spares they are exact lenght (7cm).

multirotor

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, Neal. I used longer M10's but put a nut in between to shorten them so I don't need your bolts.
Good luck with the rebuild !

gambone

iTrader: (3)

What els can I say Hi,

Speedworks

well, bolt issue was solved some weeks ago. now I'm down to the short block. Flywheel is of, but the nut in the excentric shaft (front cover side) was a real pain in the *** to get off.

It required soem serious heating and a lot of manpower get it loose but it worked.

A tip. when heating the bolt... heat it real good, not red hot. Then quickly cool it down with cold water and immediately try to get it loose. When it "ticks" and comes loose, do not turn it all the way out. first cool it down to room temperature, then turn it out.

If you immediately turn it out (still at considerable temperature) it might lock and then you are in serious trouble.

Mireck 12A

a good impactgun (electrical or air-powered) always does the job for me.

Ariel

Is that a diy engine dyno? Also the intake looks pretty weird, what is the story about that?

multirotor

iTrader: (1)

Not for me. I always try my impact gun but it doesn't always help.
I must have disassembled some 30-40 engines now and the front bolt is always the hardest. I had to cut off 3 excentric shafts so far

Mireck 12A

The only difficult ones are the ones people used locktite to secure the bolts.
I always do the front bolt as first and i have the flywheel blocked and the engine secured at the floor

The air impactgun is capable of 1400 NM (was used for getting heavy truck wheelbolts lose)
The electrical impactgun i have is a Hitatchi, and is capable of 860 NM. Most of the times, that is enough. The air impactgun i only use if the electric one does not do the job, the air-impactgun requires 12-15 Bar of pressure. My compressor only can maintain 15 bar for a short time, the gun consumes a lot of air.

its no fun for your wrists, but it gets the bolts lose