Wideband Help
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Pittsburgh,PA
Wideband Help
I am thinking about getting a Wideband sensor for my TII, and after doing a bit of searching I think I have figured out which one I am going to go with.
I am sort of new to widebands so please bare with me....
My question is do i need to add another bung or do I replace the stock sensor? Do you have to leave the wideband in the car at all times? Because I mainly want to get it for tunning cars, that is mine and my friends rx7.
Basically what I am thinking is if you have to add another bung, after I am done tunning it just plg it with a bolt or something like that. BTW how do they do it on dynos?
I am sort of new to widebands so please bare with me....
My question is do i need to add another bung or do I replace the stock sensor? Do you have to leave the wideband in the car at all times? Because I mainly want to get it for tunning cars, that is mine and my friends rx7.
Basically what I am thinking is if you have to add another bung, after I am done tunning it just plg it with a bolt or something like that. BTW how do they do it on dynos?
OK depending on the ECU and WB that you are running depends on if you need to run the standard lambda sensor. Some of the WB kits have a narrow band output, so that you just replace the sensor.
If you dont replace it, yes you will need to add an additional bung, which can be blanked off.
Dan
If you dont replace it, yes you will need to add an additional bung, which can be blanked off.
Dan
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,928
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From: Pittsburgh,PA
Sorry I guess I could have told you what ECU err piggy back I am using SAFC II, I know its lame but thats all I have money for.
Do you know of any Widebands that have the narrow sensor? And do they cost more? If not I guess I can just look at all the websites again.
Do you know of any Widebands that have the narrow sensor? And do they cost more? If not I guess I can just look at all the websites again.
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if you get the NGK sensor you can use the stock bung on the top of the downpipe close to the turbo. most widebands are going away from this sensor as it costs $150+.
if you use the vw/bosch sensors 7057($30) or the 6066($150) you will have to place it farther down the exhaust, mine is under the shifter. after the downpipe. as the bosch sensors are more sensitive to extreme heat. 500 degrees celcius if i remeber and they get inaccurate.
the new techedge wb's use the bosch sensors, but by the end of the year they should have support for both the NGK and bosch sensors. and the innovative wb's use the bosch sensors too.
--D
if you use the vw/bosch sensors 7057($30) or the 6066($150) you will have to place it farther down the exhaust, mine is under the shifter. after the downpipe. as the bosch sensors are more sensitive to extreme heat. 500 degrees celcius if i remeber and they get inaccurate.
the new techedge wb's use the bosch sensors, but by the end of the year they should have support for both the NGK and bosch sensors. and the innovative wb's use the bosch sensors too.
--D
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,928
Likes: 1
From: Pittsburgh,PA
From the TeamFC3s site on the PLX m200.....
Its a bit of effort to do but I made a good 304 stainless heat shield and aluminium heat sink for my LSU4.2 sensor and the readings are spot on accurate and consistent in varying levels of operating environment and EGT ranges. My meter is sensitive to this overheat region so it necesitated me making this stuff. Regardless of your type of WB I strongly suggest you adopt a similar thing, at worst it will increase the life of your sensor as it suffers from massivley reduced heat stress (I have measured up to a 300deg C drop in sensor body temperature)
On a side note I have a few pics of top level road racing engines running "heavily" heat shielded WB sensors mounted in the "DP" after the turbo, mostly likely to avoid a similar problem.
I remember once speaking to a bloke who is a distributor for the PLM (motec) and he recomended I measure in the exhaust system just under the drivers door to get the most accurate/repeatable readings from his equipment, so a few people seem to have similar things to say on the subject of sensor location in relation to negative heat effects on readings.
Once again my thoughs are that if you make the right sheilding and heat sink you can run the sensor in almost any location you wish as the sensor tip can take around 850 dec C (at the normal install height) when you install a shield and a bung that effectivley lifts the sensor further up out of the gas stream we physicaly could not get the tip hot enough especially post turbine as this saps around 150 deg C from the exhaust manifold temp.
I know the heat is on the inside, thats why I said about heat shielding the sensor.
Its a bit of effort to do but I made a good 304 stainless heat shield and aluminium heat sink for my LSU4.2 sensor and the readings are spot on accurate and consistent in varying levels of operating environment and EGT ranges. My meter is sensitive to this overheat region so it necesitated me making this stuff. Regardless of your type of WB I strongly suggest you adopt a similar thing, at worst it will increase the life of your sensor as it suffers from massivley reduced heat stress (I have measured up to a 300deg C drop in sensor body temperature)
On a side note I have a few pics of top level road racing engines running "heavily" heat shielded WB sensors mounted in the "DP" after the turbo, mostly likely to avoid a similar problem.
I remember once speaking to a bloke who is a distributor for the PLM (motec) and he recomended I measure in the exhaust system just under the drivers door to get the most accurate/repeatable readings from his equipment, so a few people seem to have similar things to say on the subject of sensor location in relation to negative heat effects on readings.
Once again my thoughs are that if you make the right sheilding and heat sink you can run the sensor in almost any location you wish as the sensor tip can take around 850 dec C (at the normal install height) when you install a shield and a bung that effectivley lifts the sensor further up out of the gas stream we physicaly could not get the tip hot enough especially post turbine as this saps around 150 deg C from the exhaust manifold temp.
I know the heat is on the inside, thats why I said about heat shielding the sensor.
Originally posted by HAILERS
It's the heat inside the pipe, not the exterior.
It's the heat inside the pipe, not the exterior.
yes, i have the techedge 2.0
-D
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,928
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From: Pittsburgh,PA
May I ask how much the techedge 2.0 cost you shipped? and how long it took you to get it once it was order...and would you recommend it ?
Also which sensor is better a NTK or Bosch? I know the Bosch is cheaper...
Also which sensor is better a NTK or Bosch? I know the Bosch is cheaper...
((((((((its more or less the heat on the body of the sensor above the hex nut on the sensor. the heat affects the resistors and all the technocoolstuff inside sensor)))))))))
Really. Well, live and learn. Thank you.
Really. Well, live and learn. Thank you.
the techedge WB unit cost me 240$ shipped with the sensor(7057) but i bought the DIY kit. it was a pain in the ***, took me and a buddy around 12 hours to build. the te wbo2 also has the ability to datalog. i personally really really love mine. you can get more prices on the website http://wbo2.com . i think its like 200$ more if you want it prebuilt. but it took 4 days to get here from AUS.
-D
-D
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