Timing Trigger Wheel: 36-1 vs 36-2
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: on the rev limiter
Timing Trigger Wheel: 36-1 vs 36-2
Just curious if there’s any viable reason to choose a 36-1 or a 36-2 trigger wheel over the other, since both seem to be covered in most of the latest ECU setups now? Did some googlefu, but nothing readily popped up. Seemed like FFE used the 36-2 previously, but is now a 36-1.
The sensor is Hall Effect, but specific ECU is still TBD.
TIA.
.
The sensor is Hall Effect, but specific ECU is still TBD.
TIA.
.
Completely depends on tooth and gap density (diameter of wheel vs width of tooth) - and in the case of a VR thresholds of trigger inputs with regards to what wheel to use where. That said either ~130mm tooth wheel from FFE will be functionally the same on what I would call a 'quality' ECU though I suspect that the wheel you remember seeing were actually 36 - 2 - 2 - 2 for the RX8 - as I've never seen an 36 - 2 from FFE (even though it's a completely viable trigger pattern) - I could be wrong though.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 924
From: on the rev limiter
Only realized it myself doing a forum search here, as there are numerous references of it, this one most notably (edit, it seems to be an option):
https://www.rx7club.com/vendor-class.../#post10531051
The 36-2 generally is considered to be an MX5 Miata fitment. The diameter on this particular wheel is 106mm.
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https://www.rx7club.com/vendor-class.../#post10531051
The 36-2 generally is considered to be an MX5 Miata fitment. The diameter on this particular wheel is 106mm.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; Jan 16, 2024 at 02:19 PM.
As stated, the FFE wheels have always been 36-1 and 36-2-2-2. Unless there is a specific need for the Renesis pattern, use the 36-1, it works. No need to overthink it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: on the rev limiter
It’s not an FFE kit, but was only a reference, having searched the matter before sticking my neck out making a post and risking various swings of a machete for doing so 
Which also again; on this very forum the 36-2 wheel was originally advertised and apparently sold quite a few times by FFE, as a simple search will reveal. I’ll concede on possibly having under thought the matter though. Or perhaps should have been more patient given that post covid, it takes some vendors 2x-4x longer to respond than previously.
As in this particular case it now seems like it may be what I have to live with. I had thought the 36-1 was going to be an alternate option, but that isn’t the case. It now seems that back in those days a 36-2 was a bit more specific to what a particular ecu brand supported. A 36-2 seemed a more common choice for MoTeC, but some of those past discussions state Haltech didn’t support it at some point in the past. Not sure if they do now or not as it isn’t on my consideration list.
So not so much overthinking, but a matter of not understanding that being why back in the day. Because it didn’t seem like it would matter, but not being sure if I was overlooking something obscure. Which the difference then vs. now appears to be it.
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Which also again; on this very forum the 36-2 wheel was originally advertised and apparently sold quite a few times by FFE, as a simple search will reveal. I’ll concede on possibly having under thought the matter though. Or perhaps should have been more patient given that post covid, it takes some vendors 2x-4x longer to respond than previously.
As in this particular case it now seems like it may be what I have to live with. I had thought the 36-1 was going to be an alternate option, but that isn’t the case. It now seems that back in those days a 36-2 was a bit more specific to what a particular ecu brand supported. A 36-2 seemed a more common choice for MoTeC, but some of those past discussions state Haltech didn’t support it at some point in the past. Not sure if they do now or not as it isn’t on my consideration list.
So not so much overthinking, but a matter of not understanding that being why back in the day. Because it didn’t seem like it would matter, but not being sure if I was overlooking something obscure. Which the difference then vs. now appears to be it.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; Jan 16, 2024 at 10:13 PM.
From what I gather. On a 2 rotor, you would want to go affix the missing tooth at around 45 degrees BTDC. The goal is to get the missing tooth where crankshaft speed is the highest during startup. High compression engines have trouble synching up on startup so a 36-2 would help. I guess it depends on the computer and the crank pick-up i.e. VR sensor vrs. Hall effect gear tooth sensor. Plus I'm guessing a rotary is much more linear in starting then a herky jerky high compression 4 banger for example. If you needed to and the computer supports the wheel you could just knock off the corresponding tooth ,that isn't rocket science.
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