It's finally here!

A well engineered, high quality, high resolution crank pickup for the 13B-REW Engine is now available to the public. This kit allows those with high performance ECU's to run multi-tooth Motronic style wheels which offer greater resolution/sensitivity with zero rpm drift. These kits are essentially bolt-on and go.

The 36 tooth wheel (renesis & 36-1/2) offers 3x greater resolution than a stock FD 12+1 pickup. With competent tuning, these features combine for the smoothest / safest / most stable rotary engine you've ever driven.

We currently have an ECU compatibility list that is expanding as we're able to test more ecu's, so stay tuned for your ECU to be next!

Details
6061-T6 Construction
Protective Anodizing
18-8 Stainless hardware
Designed to use OEM Crank Angle Sensor
Colors
Full Function Blue and Nickel
Sky blue and Zinc
Blood Red coming soon
Satin Black coming soon


Options
Renesis Wheel
coming soon:
Hall Effect Sensor
60-2 Wheel
36-2 Wheel


Additional Information
For use with OEM REW crank pulley hub
Works on 1, 2, and 3 rotor engines

ECU Compatibility
Haltech
Platinum Sport 1000
Platinum Sport 2000
Sprint RE


Motec
M400
M600
M800
M84
M2R
M4*(No split timing)

AEM
30-1800

Megasquirt

The retail on this kit is VERY reasonable @ $165 but we are offering an introductory group buy for rx7club members.
Group buy is as follows:

2-5: $155 (14% savings)
6-10: $145 (19% savings)
11+: $135 (25% savings)


*prices include shipping to the lower 48 states!* (Those out of country please ask for a shipping quote)

Payment forms accepted:
Paypal
Money Order
Cashiers Check

The group buy applies to other forums as well and all will be counted in the number of kits to bring pricing down for everyone.

If you have any technical questions/comments/concerns please direct to either:
FullFunctionEng@gmail.com or private messages.

Thanks!
Full Function Engineering

 

if only this would work with my e11v2 I should look into the AEM...

Great product, it should sell really well!! Thanks for making this

-Heath

 

I am interested in this hope more people join the GB.

 

omg, im going to have to get this

Lloyd

 

Again... gorgeous! Only makes not being able to have it that much more painful. Guess this is the one ECU limitation I'll have to live with.

 

Carlos, there's an M84 sitting at the shop right now... want me to box it up for you? haha

 

Agreed, M84 FTW. =)

 

I assume zero compatibility with the PowerFC?

 

I'm sorry sir, you are correct. PowerFC has all of the good stuff in the background.

 

That sucks. I guess I'll just have to keep this product in mind when I eventually switch to a haltech...

 

Have you seen any interference with the sine wave that the reluctor puts off. Any plans to go to a hall effect sensors?

 

Nope no interference issues so far.
We have a winning combination of a great sensor and tight predetermined air gap (that is non adjustable).
Plus every vehicle that these have been on are setup and wired correctly.

Yes we DO have Hall effect sensor setups. They essentially look identical..
The only difference is that they do not have a built in connector.

 

I'd be interested in a Hall effect sensor version, is there a price difference?

 

is microtech not on the list becasue it is not compatible or have you not tested it with one yet?

cheers mark

 

hgow much does m84 goes for??

 

Hall effect option will be an additional $40 and includes sensor and connector kit.

Schwass, we are still working on microtech compatibility so left it off the list for now. We will update as soon as it is finalized.

Indispeed, I believe MSRP on the M84 is ~2550 plus harness/sensors/options...

 

I'm in for a Hall sensor.

 

What's the benefit of using a Hall sensor? No EMI?

Also, is there a list forming or should we just send money?

 

If your ecu has no interference issues then there is no benefit. reluctor = sine wave, hall=square wave. To simplify it, when your ecu gets a sine wave signal it converts it to a square wave to interpret the data. Switching to a Hall essentially takes the conversion out of the equation. On the other hand it DOES require power to be ran to the sensor (potentially a PITA if you already have a nice harness).

The issue USED to be that a lot of people ran a combination of Haltech and FC style CAS.
It was a bad combination of Haltech using mediocre quality reluctor adaptor (cough RA8 cough), a notoriously weak signal from the stock CAS, and possibly less than optimal wiring.

This was evident when a haltech e6k was having massive interference issues in a FC and was taken out and put into an FD or mitsubishi etc.. Now all of a sudden it worked fine.. Just a bad combination of things thats all.

Help answer your question?

 

Note to All:PLEASE READ ENTIRELY

The Group Buy is ending Saturday April 16th.
This gives everyone 3 weeks to figure out exactly what they need, get money together,etc.

These parts are already finished so will ship immediately following group buy end date and final payment.

We would like a $50 minimum deposit via Paypal (snyper10x@msn.com) or Check/Money Order (pm/email for our address).

Along with deposit please include:
Full Name
Club Username
Full Shipping Address
Email or Phone #
Amount of deposit
Exact engine setup (i.e., engine model, main pulley, ECU)
Kit requested (FC/FD etc, color combination)
Options (i.e., Hall sensor, wheel tooth pattern, extra connector)

We are also offering a 5% additional discount to those who choose to pay via Check/Money Order!!!

Thank you
Full Function Engineering

Side Note
If you NEED/WANT your kit sooner than April you may pay at the current discounted rate (dependent on GB list length) and we will ship it immediately.

 

List

1. Force13b (RX7club)
2. GorillaRE (RCC)
3. GorillaRE (RCC)
4. Ehron (RX7club)
5.



Possibles: ??
1. Magus2222 (RX7club)
2. Evopanda (RX7club)
3. Waffles (RCC)

 

The sine wave also runs on a 1v signal vs hall with a 5v signal. The small wave signal is more likely to be affected by interference. FullFunction said they haven't seen any interference, i'm just worried my MSD coils causing interference. (In my uncles 42 chop top ford his MSD coils caused the stereo to turn off. Took quite a while to figure that 1 out) I would rather spend the extra 40$ and am not worried about running some new wires.

 

For a P1000S what is the best wheel to go with and and what settings do you use. I have my tuner running tests on various configurations under my MAP and its giving him errors?

 

mmm sort of but not really... This is simplified but, the reluctors output is directly related to engine speed. So say @ 1000 rpm it produces 100 mV (thats .1V) but at 10000 rpm it produces 100V.
The hall signal can be anything depending on sensor and input. Ours should normally be powered by 5,8 or 12v supply (thats the norm for ECU's) but can do anything from 4.75 to 24V.

For the PS1000 we use the renesis wheel. It's 36 teeth is preprogrammed in the PS series and works wonderfully. I'm not sure what you mean about your tuner running tests?

 

In!!!