Kurgan

Ok guys, I need a wideband O2 sensor. I have a Haltech. Any suggestions on which setup I should go with? I would like a complete, ready-to-go kit that includes a digital or analog readout (I prefer analog) of the AFR (I'm talking 11.8:1, not 720mv or some crap like that ), and converter box that I would need to hook it up to the Haltech for dataloggin, the sensor and any cables I might need.

Suggestions are very welcome! If it is smarter to buy each individual piece, let me know, otherwise I'm looking for the whole SHABANG!

Want2race

Groupbuy!!! i want one too or a lamba sensor!

Styk33

I highly recommend the MRM unit. It has a dual corrected output so you can datalog in your Haltech and view the actual A/F with the display of your choice (palm pilot/laptop/MRM display). With the current exchange rate the price is under $1k right now. Robert is the guy that handles everything and he is very helpful when someone has questions.

Edit: I forgot to add, I have used the Autronics unit and the RP unit and like the MRM one the best. The RP unit is pretty big in size and works great for mounting on the dash (if you want something that big on your dash). The Autronics unit has a nice bright LED display, but would take some work to mount and look halfway decent. The MRM unit has lots of options for display and you can buy one they sell or make your own with a laptop/palm pilot.

0piston

iTrader: (9)

Look on the supra forums there was a group buy on FJO's wide band kit a couple weeks back-- it will be a complete wide band solution. went for I think around 700.

Evil Aviator

I understand the value of good datalogging, but why do you guys like the wideband O2 sensor so much?

13BAce

Alot of people want to tune by it. Someone I know wanted to buy one sensor and 4 displays and share the sensor, but I didn't have a need for it.

HWO

becuase if gives you rather precise readouts of your mixture conditions, and it is a VERY valuble tool for tuning, if you are wanting to tune your car yourself you "need" a wideband.

simply split the price with a couple of others who want it for the same reason as you do - for self tuning, simply share the thing around, you dont need it for daily driving etc once the thing is tuned anyway

Evil Aviator

Hmm, I was just wondering, because the narrow-band O2 sensor of the Wolf3D works just fine for me. Heck, I've tuned aircraft engines for years with a binary AFR meter (or my ear on lesser systems), and it doesn't get much more narrow-band than that! Just as long as you have the correct AFR meter for your application (NA, supercharged, alcohol, diesel, etc.) I don't see why anyone would need the extended range of a wide-band unless they didn't have any idea of how to tune an engine, and needed the wide-band to get them "in the ballpark".

I don't see how the bandwidth affects the precision of the readout. Wouldn't the precision (accuracy) be based on the quality of the equipment? Maybe you mean "fineness" instead of "precision"? I realize that most narrow-band O2 sensors operate at 0-1 volt, while the wide-band sensors operate at 0-5 volts. The thing is, though, "wide-band" means an extended range, not necessarily a finer quantization. For example, a narrow-band sensor covering a 12:1 through 16:1 AFR with an output of 0-1 volts and graduated every 0.2 volts would give a fineness of 1.0 (i.e. 12:1, 13:1, 14:1, 15:1, 16:1). A wide-band O2 sensor covering 10:1 through 18:1 AFR with an output of 0-5 volts and graduated every 1.0 volts would give a lesser fineness of 2.0 (i.e. 10:1, 12:1, 14:1, 16:1, 18:1). Is there something I'm missing here, or do people just use the "wideband" terminology as slang to describe a more accurate sensor?

HWO

a sensor/o2 readout DEVICE which reads well from 12.0:1 to 16.0:1 is no farkin good if you are trying to tune in the on boost area of a map while up the revrange, when ya are trying to hold somewhere in the vacinity of 11.0:1 to 11.5:1

i presume you have seen the voltage vs 02 graphs for a normal 0-1v sensor, it has all its readigns in the middle and very little at either end, in other words around stoichiometric for a piston motor it is fine, if you want any other numbers, its not much use to ya.

I think most of the guys here are after a sensor which reads accuratly from 10:1 to 14:1, anything else is outside our operating range.

Evil Aviator

That would be a "narrow-band". A "wide-band" would read accurately from something like 8:1 to 18:1 (ie the full range for gasoline combustion), and I argee with you that this is extended range is worthless.

Yes, I also agree that an O2 sensor that has finer calibration in the AFR range for an economical NA engine would not work well in a supercharged racing application. However, this doesn't have anything to do with wide vs narrow band, but rather with the calibration of a given bandwidth.

So, I guess you are saying that the narrow-band O2 sensors that you have tried cover the wrong bandwidth, so therefore you like the wideband O2 sensors better?

Thanks for the info, and I'm sorry to be such a PITA.

Red-Rx7

Where have you used the Autronics before, Jay?



Mike

AnthonyNYC

iTrader: (3)

Are you sure it wasn't 4 sensors and ONE display??? THe sensors are about $300 each and another $1000 for the display.



Anthony

13BAce

Something like that. I was at the Ghetto Boys, umm I mean Pep Boys, when I was told about it, and I didn't pay much attention.

Styk33

Actually Mike, I have used it on two cars One only put down low 3xxRWHP (how pathetic ) and the other one put down around 44xRWHP. You did pop my Autronics cherry though

If you ever get on ICQ we could chat.

Red-Rx7

Biatch! When you tell a story, you better tell all of it.

Mike

Node

iTrader: (1)

well arent we the feisty one

peejay

Standard lambda sensors (our good ol' O2s) are heavily biased - most of the range only covers about half of one A/F ratio point! It's so biased that factory ECUs don't bother trying to get exactly .5v - they lean out until it hits about .2-.3v and then richen until it hits about .7-.8v because it is EXTREMELY sensitive in that range. OTOH, there is a big difference between .925v and .975v, but it's meaningless because the sensor output is also affected by exhaust temps! Standard O2 sensors should be treated like a binary switch, rich or lean, and not much more precise than that.