C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Oh, I forgot to add... notice there are 6 injector clips? Going to use the GZ LIM and run E85.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Eh, turns out my used Tec3r is DOA. Beware the used engine management system. Guy that sold it to me made it sound like it had a nice harness too. Yeah, that went in the trash. Hopefully Electromotive will treat me nicely and kiss me before they fix this thing.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Some small updates.

I'm rolling on it pretty heavy now, have most of the harness figured out. Just taking my time planning all of the circuits for the rest of the car (redoing all wiring to EVERYTHING I've ever installed in the car)

Here's some pics:


Current state of interior, sans dashboard.


Here's a test crimp I made with a weather pack 150 pin. Let me just say, I will never again in my life attempt to build any type of wiring using anything other then **PROPERLY** crimped pins in new connectors....this thing does such a beautiful job that I get a little weepy when I look at it.



TEC harness connector all bundled and divided up. That expandable sleeving is the ****! Don't get you finger in it though, its a chinese finger trap!


Never took a shot of this before because I couldn't get a good one with the dash in. But the connector pictured here is KEY for any install of a standalone in a 2nd gen. That plug contains the wires for your cruise control (if equipped), stock coolant temp sensor, stock cooling fan sensor, wipers and other "usually kept" feautres. The harness will untangle out ot the factory harness, and unplug there. VOILA - no cutting or rewiring needed.


Just a shot of one of the weatherpack plugs I'm using through out the car. After wiring stuff, and taking thigns back apart, you get extremely frustrated cutting wires and rejoining them. "think ahead" is my motto for '09




Soon to come, engine bay connections, lots of relays and fuses, and much - much more wire!

EDIT: also want to thank Chris Ludwig for the speedy delivery of the connectors for all my engine's sensors. Thanks buddy!

IAN

iTrader: (3)

Dam dude. I though I had alot of work to do on my car. Looking good.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Got some more shots of the progress.

I forgot to take a shot of the whole mess on the bench, but it looked pretty up there!

Here's the business end of the engine harness:

Love using that nylon expandable sleeving. I'm sure there's other better products that exist that I've never seen, but thats a hell of a step up from corrogated loom and electrical tape!!

Here's the coils in their new home. Have to finish the bracket yet, but I needed to rough it in to finish the harness + order custom magnecor wires. Didn't want to be waiting on them


Another shot of the coils:

Note the labels. Thanks to the wonderfully brilliant minds around here, I discovered this sweet *** product called clear heat shrink, and I think I'm in love! haha

Firewall grommet. Now - yes, I know I have some fancy schmancy bulkhead connectors to use here, but a few things transpiered:
1) I didn't have enough wires in the bulk heads for everything (gauges, assorted power wires, engine harness, remaining bits of factory harness....)
2) Paranoia surrounding trigger issues, and the two bundles of shielded wires for the coils made it difficult for me to chop that engine harness in half and rejoin it. I'll use them on another car.

Also, all of the tape used to bind the grommet to the harness (and all other tape on the harness for that matter) is of the silicone, self fusing variety. Myself, I've never used this before now, but would HIGHLY recommend that anyone doing any wiring keep a couple rolls of that stuff around. It seals amazingly well, and *will not* come unravelled.

Lastly, here is what remains to be done on the inside - everything And yeah - they're marked!! haha
Thats how the inside will stay for a bit. Currently, I've finished the firewall forward portion of the wiring, and have the engine pulled for installation of the (yet to be finished at the machine shop) FD front cover, waterpump etc. When thats all back in, I'll finish the wiring in the cabin and throw some power to that bitch to see what smokes, the wiring or the tailpipe. I've got my fingers crossed for the latter!

Also - sleeper7, in the very near future I'll be looking for an email address I can send you my map on to see if you think it'll work......hopefully you can lend a hand May also get your input on that Chris

Erdin

Keep us updated i have also bought this ECU but i havent installed it yet.

IAN

iTrader: (3)

Joe.

What are you using for sheilded wire. I have not purchased any wiring for my autronic install yet. Ideally I want my car running in 4 weeks to make sure everything is good. DGRR2009 will just be around the corner..........

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

I used what came on the TEC harness. Haven't had to add any (shielded) wiring anywhere.

PM dj55b (sam) he was telling me about some wire he had that he used on his megasquirt install.....might be what you're after.

NotTTT

Depending on which intercooler route you take, the FD WP assembly make the radiator plumbing a simple job that requires 1 90* bend and a stock FC hose. Can't remember if it was upper or lower but it's NICE.

Joe, if you're not going to be running an air pump, can't see why you would, you should look into Chadwicks idler kit over in the GB section if you plan on using the FD wp housing. In the first page he goes into alot of detail about the wear on the main bearings from over tensioning the belts. I can assure you, he isn't lying. My main bearing was pretty trashed after only a few hours with a belt that was way too tight trying to make up for little belt contact.

That minor difference of 6* can easily be the difference from a great running engine and a bunch of new parts for powdercoating as show pieces. Nice find on the pulley differences though Joe, very note worth stuff. Personally I went the simpler route - Motec with the CAS. I completely understand and agree with your reasons for going this route though. Kudos for picking up on the *minor* differences.

So VERY VERY true. But given the generally cheap, quick and half-assed approach of what seems like an ever increasing majority of FC owners, it's to be expected. I remember reading someones' Haltech install tips tread somewhere and gagging at the harness. People were commending this guy on the great harness that he built when in fact, it was disgusting. Something that I would be embarrassed to post pics of.

Your harness looks great though Ludwig.

Ahhhhhhh proper tools. Did you give it the tug test? I generally break the terminal before the wire pulls out. Very reassuring.

Yeah it is! Where'd you get yours from, Joe? McMaster? I think I need to pick a bunch up for when I put my front chassis harness back together. Screw the split-loom and 3 rolls of Super 33+

Very nicely done. Luckily for me all that stuff went away and I closed up that hole for the Mil-Spec connectors. I just added a watertight bulkhead connector to where the A/C used to be for the wiper wires.

Yeah it certainly is. I think I would prefer to use DR-25 (raychem) for the engine bay or any other place where fluids dirt might get, just becuase that stuff is so damn easy to clean up. On the interior though, I don't think there is anything better.

The ont advantage the expandable sleeve stuff has over the raychem though is the re-using of it. If you wanted to add a wire, you could potentially score the heatshrink and they reheat it, effectively letting it cut itself. Open the expandable stuff up, run your extra wire, and apply some more heat shrink. With a completed Raychem harness..... you almost eff'ed. I got lucky when I had to add a few extra wires to my aux harness as the main joint was pretty close to the bulkhead. If I needed to add something to my engine harness, I'd be screwed... completely.

That stuff is awesome isn't it? I think we actually have 4 different sizes of clear heatshink in my shop right now. 1/4 - 1" You know, for the 1/0 wire. That stuff is AWESOME. I think I counted 32 labels in in the battery bin for the landy project I'm working on. Ridiculous. On the bright side though, you'll hardly ever need a skematic again.

I believe Waytek has some nice shielded wire that might be what you're looking for.

So how's it looking Joe? Be ready for DGRR? Everything looks great so far.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Yep it'll be at DGRR

Got the car running last week and have been putting a few miles on it.

Overall impressions of the system:

Pretty idiot proof if there is such a thing. I had alot of help from some great members (sleeper7, chuck and GTOrx7, logan from Defined Autoworks) to get a base map gathered up, but after a while of tinkering with the car I've found that the software will set you on a pretty good path, save for a pretty bare ignition map. The wizard will generate a map good enough to fire it up, and get you on your way.

As I said though, its pretty idiot proof. Wire up your sensors correctly, and mount you trigger correctly and it WILL work rest assured. I do like the fact that coming from something with trigger issues, this ECU is either going to get PROPER timing and run, or not run at all. The only thing you can screw up is mounting the trigger wheel at anywhere other then TDC - if you DO screw that up, by a tooth or two, you can alter the edge setting in the software and make up for it - but you have to know which tooth it went to thats all.

The biggest thing in setting it up I've found so far, is the HUGE importance of TOG and IOT. You'll beat your head against the wall until those values are set properly, the wizard should get you close.

Also, when you're first starting out then tune, and you're fooling with IOT/TOG, zero out the VE map - but don't load the car up at all. Just do various steady state checks to see where the AFR's are. When I found my current TOG IOT settings (7.9ms and 1ms) with the VE table 0'd out the car would go very lean tipping in the throttle, but that can be taken out with VE adjustments.

I've encountered a couple odd little setting things, but nothing earth shattering - seems like every piece of EMS software has its little "moods". But this one is actually very well behaved. So far, and knock on wood, everything I've setup in the ECU works as far as auxilary stuff. The wideband works and is calibrated, the internal dataloggin works great, the tach (FC) is driven well (and truth be told its slightly more accurate then it was when it was factory!!) the only thing I'm having trouble dialing in is the speed input, but I beleive its related to the rough signal Im tapping into (output from the speedometer).

OH, and so far although I haven't wound out a full boost pass with lots of water AI I believe this iginition system is pretty powerful. Compared to my old setup (stock coils with a haltech) this system has no trouble lighting 9.5 ratios. Sure, its sluggish at those ratios, but with the old system the car would've completely hit a wall. I was able to notice them and correct them without a massive smack in the face when it got drown with gas.

So far, so good - very pleased!

Some setup details for those interested:

Hardware
S5 engine - very very mild intake/exhaust porting (stock overlap)
T04-R
750pri 1600sec (low imp)
Nippondenso pump (38psi base)
stock 9 plugs

Settings
TOG - 7.9
IOT - 1
Minimum turn on time - 0.9
4amp peak


If anyone running this system needs a base map, I'd be more then happy to return the favour that my friends extended me.

I'll link the dyno thread to this one when I get back from the road trip and wring this bitch out!

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

this has been quite the thread so far. great consumer-oriented info and examples of outstanding work. until earlier tonight, i had my heart set on Autronic for my future REW-build, but i'm really liking the TEC-gt.

thanks.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

****WARNING TO ALL TECgt USERS GPI ISSUE******


Logan @ Defined autoworks has discovered an issue that cropped up on a previous customers car - and showed its face on mine as well.

When wiring the TEC, with the intention of using it on a rotary, DO NOT attempt to use GPI/O 5-7 as if you have GPI/O 5, 6 or 7 enabled at all IT WILL CANCEL OUT THE OPERATION OF YOUR REAR ROTOR'S SECONDARY INJECTOR

As long as you have those GPI's diabled, it will work fine. But do not attempt to wire any of those up for use unless you like popping rear rotors.

Reason behind this is that GPO channel 6 is tied into injector channel 6 - the one running your rear secondary. And although you would think setting it to rotary mode would make any GPO settings you make be cancelled out on that channel, its a small oversight on their part that could cost some engines.

As long as those channels are set to "disabled" the injectors will work fine. Just run your fans, and whatever other thigns you choose on different channels.

Odd software issue, we'll be bringing it to Electromotive's attention and it can hopefully be addressed in a later firmware update.

Thanks

Erdin

any up dates?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Not much to update. Car is running very well.

Only thing thats gone a little south is the operation of my check engine light.

I wired it into the FC idiot light panel along with a shift light and datalog status light. I'm not sure though if the actual input for the CEL is dinked, or if the wiring inside the panel is getting ground from somewhere, but the light just stays on (doesn't blink like it should if theres an error) but I haven't torn it apart to look because Ive been too busy using the car The shift light and datalog status lights work fine. I'm sure the CEL is just getting ground from somewhere inside the panel.......its was a very odd wiring job I did because different lights in the idiot panel get ground from different places............long story.

Solid ECU, very solid ignition and pretty easy to setup.

Erdin

Thanks for the update il hopfully have mine up and runing soon too

twisted7

iTrader: (3)

So the Tec3r does not have this problem?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Not sure entirely. I'd imagine not given the different wiring layouts, but only way find out for sure would be to test it with some noid lights.

twisted7

iTrader: (3)

Ill have to look into it more. Thanks for the heads up

BlueMx5

iTrader: (4)

Installed this system into a 1993 fd and cannot get veh to idle under 1400 rpms starts to run on one rotor then shuts off , any one have any ideas before we rip it out. also cranks long on first start up backfires and then has a tip in problem goes lean for a second