K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Since I put on my Stance GR+ coilovers, I've noticed some negative camber in the rear. From searching around, I know this is normal whenever and FC is lowered. So I was wondering if getting a Rear Camber Adjuster (like the one from racing beat), would be helpful? Reason I ask is because I still get a lot snap whenever I end a drift or go to transfer, usually causing me to spin. Or would another modification be better (sway bars, strut bars etc...) to eliminate the snap?

Current suspension mods:
- RB DTSS eliminators
- Stance GR+ Coilovers

RE TurboII

iTrader: (2)

theres 2 ways to adjust rear camber, you can get the independent ones are the single rod. however i remember seeing somewhere that if you go with the dependents alone they tend to cause binding so i would recommend the single rod. or you can just run both like i am

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Are the single independents like this?

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

i was going to run a single arm myself, just ordered it recently.

IIRC, you're running full stiff in the back aren't you? lowering that down some should help reducing that 'snap' however short wheel base cars tend to snap more than others.

driving my buddies cressida felt soooo smooooth even on cut springs. lol

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

I'm actually changed my setup to 7/5.

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Mod the driver or change to a different chassis, the "snap" is a characteristic of the chassis and needs to be overcome by the driver by countersteering quicker or with more steering angle.

drftwerks

iTrader: (1)

could it have to do with the rear sway bar?

a few people swear by no rear on fc

RE TurboII

iTrader: (2)

these are the single independents

the rod is the one that adjusts both sides

RE TurboII

iTrader: (2)

heres a look of where the singles and the joint rod go

Passenger Side


Driver Side


you can see the joint camber arm in the driver side pic

RE TurboII

iTrader: (2)

the horizontal ones are the lateral links (toe) and the vertical is the camber FYI

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Well I don't want it to be super loose (like a 240), and I will admit that Im not very good and don't have that much experience.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Wouldn't it be better to have one so the chassis is stiffer?

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

RE TII: Where did you get the single independents from?

talkstometal

the single bar will change your pinion angle. if you lowered alot then the bar shouldnt be used. i have the 2 independent pieces and they work great.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

I lowered it about 4" in the front 5" in the rear, it's not slammed but it's low...

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Independent adjusters.

http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...products_id=80

I would not suggest using the ones RE TurboII posted because they are not adjustable and you would not be able to balance camber between both rear tires.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, what about the one from RB?

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

RB doesn't make the independent adjusters.

RussTII

iTrader: (4)

holy ******* **** this thread is full of win.
i had no idea there were independent rear toe adjusters, I thought there was just the single turnbuckle. My rear toe is all jacked up. one side is actually more cambered than the other. I htought my car was just destined to be fucked thats why i never got the single one becuase even if i adjusted both, it would still be off.

RussTII

iTrader: (4)

well, just found out its $200.

probably not gonna buy them.

'F' that

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

You need the adjustable lateral links to adjust rear toe, which is thrown out of wack when you lower our cars.

http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...products_id=88

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Sorry I didn't mean the independent ones. I meant this.



The Rear Suspension Camber Adjuster is an adjustable link that replaces the stock, fixed-length link to allow moderate rear camber changes by tilting the rear suspension subframe. The immediate range of adjustment is .60 degrees less negative camber to .77 degrees more negative camber. With careful inspection and possibly some minor dimpling of the floor pan, this range can be nearly doubled. After installation, adjustments to camber are quickly made. There is virtually no toe change with this adjustment.

RussTII

iTrader: (4)

i said toe, but i meant camber.

I fail

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

That bar is not adjustable on the car which means you need to remove one side to adjust. I would suggest the Mazdatrix aluminum on car adjustable rod.

http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=04-7421-0000

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Ok, thanks